Anyone still use sloppy stage II?
03-19-2019, 12:13 PM
#81
10 Second Club
Good stuff rel3rd! I got 128mph out of it with a 150 shot NOT spraying through the shifts. I think it can do 130mph if I ever get the guts to try spraying through the shifts on my 4l60e lol
03-19-2019, 03:23 PM
#82
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Joe's very aware but for the rest of the audience, there's a difference between slow and ok lobes versus good, aggressive, and race. It's not as simple as comparing .006/.050/.200 lift/duration numbers to understand the outcome on stability and endurance. These are all still hydraulic rollers using the common .600 lift spring packs we're talking about.
Pro LS intake lobes are designed to work with springs in the 130 (single)-150lb (dual) seat range and 400-475 open. We're looking for good stability at 7500 to work well with the latest intakes and heads. Our Pro LS Turbo intake lobes and cam timing are identical to the Pro LS Naturally Aspirated cams because they face the same mechanical loads and o.e. style intakes for the most part.
The reason for the "softer" exhaust lobe offering with our Pro LS turbo cams is to break open easier against elevated cylinder pressure near the end of the power stroke.
At the end of the day, crisper seat timing means more torque down low and power up high as long as the valvetrain is stable. This can be seen in better spool in the case of the turbo cams. We've been introducing Pro LS parts and the HDR pushrods at a price point that makes them a clear value. Not the cheapest, but certainly as good (or better) than parts sold at a much higher price point.
Last edited by Summitracing; 03-19-2019 at 05:06 PM.
03-20-2019, 06:15 AM
#84
05-30-2019, 05:51 AM
#86
11 Second Club
iTrader: (43)
Summit offers a similar spec'd cam:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-8706/overview/
With the $25 off $250 deal with the "ALWAYS" code...at $235, it is actually cheaper than most any "Sloppy" cam that you can't find right now anyway.
05-30-2019, 06:01 AM
#87
11 Second Club
iTrader: (43)
Mustang Dyno, through a 4L80E w/triple disc converter, Strange chromoly steel driveshaft, and 9" rear...
At 12.8:1 AFR, N/A:
348/356
At 11.8:1 AFR, as raced (150 shot, and ran a 10.69@125):
447/484
At 11.4:1 (average) AFR, with 200 shot:
504/520
Right now car has some sort of phantom issue where it is losing fuel pressure, idling like ***, and bucking between shifts, very randomly.
Also fuel pressure is lower, and injector duty cycle is higher, than it has always been.
I have dual 255 intank pumps, and both do it, so I am leaning/hoping it is a blown/leaky diaphragm on the Aeromotive regulator.
05-30-2019, 04:06 PM
#88
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Mentioned just above...
Summit offers a similar spec'd cam:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-8706/overview/
With the $25 off $250 deal with the "ALWAYS" code...at $235, it is actually cheaper than most any "Sloppy" cam that you can't find right now anyway.
Summit offers a similar spec'd cam:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-8706/overview/
With the $25 off $250 deal with the "ALWAYS" code...at $235, it is actually cheaper than most any "Sloppy" cam that you can't find right now anyway.
Would I be able to use PAC 1218 springs with that cam? Looks like it would be to much lift...
06-01-2019, 08:41 AM
#90
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06-01-2019, 05:01 PM
#91
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Factory will be to short. We always recommend measuring first with a pushrod length checker. Most of our .600 lift cams end up with a 7.425 to 7.450 depending on how much the heads are milled.
07-02-2019, 10:54 AM
#93
Restricted User
Pushrod length is extremely overlooked.
You can guesstimate push rod length by measuring the angle of turns it takes to tighten your rocker bolts, just slowly tighten it by hand using a socket and extension until you feel it start to preload.
The rocker will be sitting on both the valve and the push rod.
From there, torque the bolt, and keep track of the angle needed to torque it from zero preload to the right torque spec.
With the thread pitch of the bolt being 1.25mm or .050", and with the ratio of the rocker you get roughly a 1.588x multiplier, so 1 full turn of the bolt from zero preload = .079" lifter preload, 1/2 turn is .0395"
Find the recommended preload for whatever lifters you are using, and use push rod length to adjust accordingly.
Push rod length will not get the multiplier. If you have .079" preload and get a push rod .050" shorter, you will have .029" preload.
This is only a quick and easy method, and its not always 100% precise. Should only be used to determine whether or not you need to consider new push rods.
You could easily be giving up 50 horsepower by using the wrong length push rods in some setups.
You can guesstimate push rod length by measuring the angle of turns it takes to tighten your rocker bolts, just slowly tighten it by hand using a socket and extension until you feel it start to preload.
The rocker will be sitting on both the valve and the push rod.
From there, torque the bolt, and keep track of the angle needed to torque it from zero preload to the right torque spec.
With the thread pitch of the bolt being 1.25mm or .050", and with the ratio of the rocker you get roughly a 1.588x multiplier, so 1 full turn of the bolt from zero preload = .079" lifter preload, 1/2 turn is .0395"
Find the recommended preload for whatever lifters you are using, and use push rod length to adjust accordingly.
Push rod length will not get the multiplier. If you have .079" preload and get a push rod .050" shorter, you will have .029" preload.
This is only a quick and easy method, and its not always 100% precise. Should only be used to determine whether or not you need to consider new push rods.
You could easily be giving up 50 horsepower by using the wrong length push rods in some setups.
01-18-2020, 05:42 PM
#94
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01-21-2021, 08:59 AM
#95
Break-in 