Spinning to 7k ocasionaly....stock rod bolts. Advice?
03-14-2018, 12:17 PM
#1
Spinning to 7k ocasionaly....stock rod bolts. Advice? Hello fellas
Ok, I have a heads and cam setup that Makes power to 7200-7300 rpm that I知 about to install. I have all bolt ons and supporting mods. The valve train setup is made to support this. Now, I知 not gonna be spinning to 7k plus at everything stop light. I may do 3-4 events a year where I would try see 7000-7200rpm, mainly roll racing, a drag or two. I知 not gonna abuse it lol. Will my rod bolts be fine for this? I have some new arp2000 bolts that I can Throw in. But I知 being suggested by many to send my whole engine and have new bearings and rings installed and have rod bolts resized for the arp hardware. The motor has 4000 miles since I rebuilt it last January of 2017. Its not daily driven. It痴 an N/A setup for now. What are your suggestions?
Are my rod bolts fine for what I plan to do?
Or should I throw in the arp bolts on it? If so, can I just have them resize the rods , or do I need ro rebalance everything ? Thanks in advance guys. Truly appreciate it
Ok, I have a heads and cam setup that Makes power to 7200-7300 rpm that I知 about to install. I have all bolt ons and supporting mods. The valve train setup is made to support this. Now, I知 not gonna be spinning to 7k plus at everything stop light. I may do 3-4 events a year where I would try see 7000-7200rpm, mainly roll racing, a drag or two. I知 not gonna abuse it lol. Will my rod bolts be fine for this? I have some new arp2000 bolts that I can Throw in. But I知 being suggested by many to send my whole engine and have new bearings and rings installed and have rod bolts resized for the arp hardware. The motor has 4000 miles since I rebuilt it last January of 2017. Its not daily driven. It痴 an N/A setup for now. What are your suggestions?
Are my rod bolts fine for what I plan to do?
Or should I throw in the arp bolts on it? If so, can I just have them resize the rods , or do I need ro rebalance everything ? Thanks in advance guys. Truly appreciate it
03-14-2018, 12:26 PM
#2
From memory the rod bolts on the '01+ LS1's were known to be a hair stronger than the older years.
I am not speaking from direct experience here...but years ago people used to just swap the stock bolts to ARP's in the car. 1 bolt at a time, so they did not pull out and resize the rods. It was CLAIMED to be ok using that method (try searching, there's gotta be a bunch of old threads about it).
In my non experienced opinion, I would probably go with swapping the rod bolts without resizing rather than try to get a stock '99 bottom end to last at 7k+. I know the GenIV stuff is stronger, but early Gen3 stuff people didn't like to spin to 7K.
I am not speaking from direct experience here...but years ago people used to just swap the stock bolts to ARP's in the car. 1 bolt at a time, so they did not pull out and resize the rods. It was CLAIMED to be ok using that method (try searching, there's gotta be a bunch of old threads about it).
In my non experienced opinion, I would probably go with swapping the rod bolts without resizing rather than try to get a stock '99 bottom end to last at 7k+. I know the GenIV stuff is stronger, but early Gen3 stuff people didn't like to spin to 7K.
03-14-2018, 12:33 PM
#3
From memory the rod bolts on the '01+ LS1's were known to be a hair stronger than the older years.
I am not speaking from direct experience here...but years ago people used to just swap the stock bolts to ARP's in the car. 1 bolt at a time, so they did not pull out and resize the rods. It was CLAIMED to be ok using that method (try searching, there's gotta be a bunch of old threads about it).
In my non experienced opinion, I would probably go with swapping the rod bolts without resizing rather than try to get a stock '99 bottom end to last at 7k+. I know the GenIV stuff is stronger, but early Gen3 stuff people didn't like to spin to 7K.
I am not speaking from direct experience here...but years ago people used to just swap the stock bolts to ARP's in the car. 1 bolt at a time, so they did not pull out and resize the rods. It was CLAIMED to be ok using that method (try searching, there's gotta be a bunch of old threads about it).
In my non experienced opinion, I would probably go with swapping the rod bolts without resizing rather than try to get a stock '99 bottom end to last at 7k+. I know the GenIV stuff is stronger, but early Gen3 stuff people didn't like to spin to 7K.
03-14-2018, 01:06 PM
#5
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03-14-2018, 06:40 PM
#10
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What HCI do you have to be peaking at 7k like that. Almost all HCI LS1's I've seen peak in the 6200-6400 range regardless of cam and with a Fast intake. With that said, I think statistically speaking you will be fine spinning it that high once in a great while, but if it were me personally I would not feel comfortable doing that. Btw, what valve springs do you have and what cam?
03-14-2018, 06:42 PM
#11
TECH Junkie
Not saying it's right or wrong but I'm well aware of the consequences but I spin mine to 7000 rpms on stock '98 rod bolts constantly
I peak around 6800 rpms
I peak around 6800 rpms
Last edited by 98CayenneT/A; 03-14-2018 at 06:47 PM.
03-14-2018, 07:11 PM
#13
worked on TEA CNC TFS 215 heads @59cc, ti valves
Anger management custom cam on a cam motion core ( mid to high 23xs duration, .630, 113.5)
Yella Terra 1.7s
AHP ported FAST 92
Ported ls2 tb
Anger management custom cam on a cam motion core ( mid to high 23xs duration, .630, 113.5)
Yella Terra 1.7s
AHP ported FAST 92
Ported ls2 tb
Last edited by 96darkhorse; 03-14-2018 at 07:20 PM.
