05 vette ls2
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 73
Likes: 1
05 vette ls2 hey guys! So I posted a few weeks ago about my 02 camaro ls1 blowing. My original plans were to wait until I had the money for a crate motor, but ran across an ls2 vette motor with 129k miles. He wants $3200 for it and fortunately only 30 miles away. So I have a few questions for you guys. I have been looking into specs and weak links and I'm wondering if it'd be a good idea to rebuild it? I'm kinda of on a budget. I would like to get ahold of a Texas speed cam and maybe port heads. Is the ls6 intake better then ls2? The top end on my ls1 is in good shape ( I think). If I forge the bottom end would it be safe to keep the stock crank? I don't mind the rods and pistons but the crank is high. I read that the crank is good for high horses, but what about one with 130k miles? Also what adjustments will I need to convert from 24x reluctor ls1 to 24x ls2. Thanks guys for taking time to read. Just need opinions! I know it's alot of questions. Jason
The cheapest option is to leave the LS2 bottom end alone. I wouldn't be scared of the mileage. If you want peace of mind and you aren't building anything wild, you could have a machine shop install all new bearings and put all the stock internals back together. If you have big plans for the future, then stick with the stock crank and pick up some forged rods and pistons.
If you stick with the stock internals, that will save you money so that you could port the heads.
If I am not mistaken, the LS6 intake manifold does outperform the LS2.
Now you will need to drill and tap your block as well as extend your knock sensor connectors or buy an extension harness to relocate your LS1 knock sensors to the sides of the LS2 block. You'll also have to extend your cam sensor connector (also I think you need to switch the orientation of the wires) or buy an extension harness as the LS2 cam sensor is in the front cover instead of behind the intake. That should take care of the sensor differences.
Lastly, I have read that you may need to grind down the bolts on the back of the fbody water pump if it interferes with the LS2 cover.
If you stick with the stock internals, that will save you money so that you could port the heads.
If I am not mistaken, the LS6 intake manifold does outperform the LS2.
Now you will need to drill and tap your block as well as extend your knock sensor connectors or buy an extension harness to relocate your LS1 knock sensors to the sides of the LS2 block. You'll also have to extend your cam sensor connector (also I think you need to switch the orientation of the wires) or buy an extension harness as the LS2 cam sensor is in the front cover instead of behind the intake. That should take care of the sensor differences.
Lastly, I have read that you may need to grind down the bolts on the back of the fbody water pump if it interferes with the LS2 cover.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 73
Likes: 1
The cheapest option is to leave the LS2 bottom end alone. I wouldn't be scared of the mileage. If you want peace of mind and you aren't building anything wild, you could have a machine shop install all new bearings and put all the stock internals back together. If you have big plans for the future, then stick with the stock crank and pick up some forged rods and pistons.
If you stick with the stock internals, that will save you money so that you could port the heads.
If I am not mistaken, the LS6 intake manifold does outperform the LS2.
Now you will need to drill and tap your block as well as extend your knock sensor connectors or buy an extension harness to relocate your LS1 knock sensors to the sides of the LS2 block. You'll also have to extend your cam sensor connector (also I think you need to switch the orientation of the wires) or buy an extension harness as the LS2 cam sensor is in the front cover instead of behind the intake. That should take care of the sensor differences.
Lastly, I have read that you may need to grind down the bolts on the back of the fbody water pump if it interferes with the LS2 cover.
If you stick with the stock internals, that will save you money so that you could port the heads.
If I am not mistaken, the LS6 intake manifold does outperform the LS2.
Now you will need to drill and tap your block as well as extend your knock sensor connectors or buy an extension harness to relocate your LS1 knock sensors to the sides of the LS2 block. You'll also have to extend your cam sensor connector (also I think you need to switch the orientation of the wires) or buy an extension harness as the LS2 cam sensor is in the front cover instead of behind the intake. That should take care of the sensor differences.
Lastly, I have read that you may need to grind down the bolts on the back of the fbody water pump if it interferes with the LS2 cover.
This motor comes fully dressed. All accessories from top to bottom. The placements on accessories from both motors are in the same spots right? Also you wouldn't worry about timing chain or oil pump?
Another thing that I don't know is if the LS2 oil pan will clear the LS1 k-member. If there are clearance issues you will have to swap over the oil pan, pick up tube, and windage tray from your LS1 onto the LS2.
Do you know if the LS2 engine was in good running condition before it was pulled? If so, I think you'll be fine with the current pump and chain. However, if after doing some research you discover that you have to swap over all of your accessories AND the oil pan (you also mentioned a cam swap), there will be not much stopping you from removing the front cover and changing out the timing set and the oil pump for peace of mind.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 73
Likes: 1
The locations of the accessories are not identical. I can't seem to figure out if the corvette accessories will fit in an Fbody. If they will fit, great. If not you can swap over all of your accessories from the LS1 onto the LS2 (including the crank dampener).
Another thing that I don't know is if the LS2 oil pan will clear the LS1 k-member. If there are clearance issues you will have to swap over the oil pan, pick up tube, and windage tray from your LS1 onto the LS2.
Do you know if the LS2 engine was in good running condition before it was pulled? If so, I think you'll be fine with the current pump and chain. However, if after doing some research you discover that you have to swap over all of your accessories AND the oil pan (you also mentioned a cam swap), there will be not much stopping you from removing the front cover and changing out the timing set and the oil pump for peace of mind.
Another thing that I don't know is if the LS2 oil pan will clear the LS1 k-member. If there are clearance issues you will have to swap over the oil pan, pick up tube, and windage tray from your LS1 onto the LS2.
Do you know if the LS2 engine was in good running condition before it was pulled? If so, I think you'll be fine with the current pump and chain. However, if after doing some research you discover that you have to swap over all of your accessories AND the oil pan (you also mentioned a cam swap), there will be not much stopping you from removing the front cover and changing out the timing set and the oil pump for peace of mind.
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Not necessarily, (well in my opinion, I haven't really shopped a lot for LS2's) but I've seen 6.2 motors go for that range so why not go for one of those? That's my view anyway.
I'd rather have a 6.2 motor for the better heads and intake. I also like the fact you can get GMPP ported and assembled LS3 heads for $1500. Then there's the lightweight valves in the LS3 heads, the larger bore so you always have that foundation to push power higher (no replacement for displacement).
With an LS3 you can get very close or right at 500 to the tires with cam, headers and intake (tubing NOT the manifold, that's on stock manifold) only. You'll be roughly 50-70 less hp with the LS2 and same mods.
I'd rather have a 6.2 motor for the better heads and intake. I also like the fact you can get GMPP ported and assembled LS3 heads for $1500. Then there's the lightweight valves in the LS3 heads, the larger bore so you always have that foundation to push power higher (no replacement for displacement).
With an LS3 you can get very close or right at 500 to the tires with cam, headers and intake (tubing NOT the manifold, that's on stock manifold) only. You'll be roughly 50-70 less hp with the LS2 and same mods.
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Verdad Gallardo What about this
Fresh bottom end, 4.030 bore. Slap heads and cam in this and have a lot more power, and save a lot of money not rebuilding the LS2
https://www.ebay.com/itm/ls1-ls2-ls3...lTXqYi&vxp=mtr
Fresh bottom end, 4.030 bore. Slap heads and cam in this and have a lot more power, and save a lot of money not rebuilding the LS2
https://www.ebay.com/itm/ls1-ls2-ls3...lTXqYi&vxp=mtr
Launching!
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 288
Likes: 57
What about this
Fresh bottom end, 4.030 bore. Slap heads and cam in this and have a lot more power, and save a lot of money not rebuilding the LS2
https://www.ebay.com/itm/ls1-ls2-ls3...lTXqYi&vxp=mtr
Fresh bottom end, 4.030 bore. Slap heads and cam in this and have a lot more power, and save a lot of money not rebuilding the LS2
https://www.ebay.com/itm/ls1-ls2-ls3...lTXqYi&vxp=mtr
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,445
Likes: 4
also consider tuning ,you would like to be able to use ls 1 injectors in the swap,which combo is a better swap ,tuning wise .the better the heads the easier the power ,a ls3 for a little bit more is worth the can of worms .with the ls2 you mentioned ,check it with the valve covers off .can you do a compression check ?
TECH Resident
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 967
Likes: 53
From: Winter Haven FL
For 3200 I'd look closer at just how blown your ls1 is. The tricky part is if the cylinder walls are shot since new liners cost a small fortune. If it's just bearings or a blown piston you can do a cheap rebuild or go forged or even stroke it. If you put a rod through the side of the block then you can get a nice short block for relatively cheap money and be up and running with less headaches than going to a gen 4/5.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 73
Likes: 1
I actually already pick up the motor on Thursday. Its a pretty clean motor. I haven't had a chance to mess with it much because of work. I'm probably going to leave the bottom end alone and h/c/I , tune and be done with it. I've called a couple machine shops and spoke with a few ppl on here and everyone seems to think the bearings and rings should be fine. So I'll just take a look at them and if they look fine go with it. I'm looking for mid 400's who so I wouldn't think it'd be that much stain to it.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 73
Likes: 1
also consider tuning ,you would like to be able to use ls 1 injectors in the swap,which combo is a better swap ,tuning wise .the better the heads the easier the power ,a ls3 for a little bit more is worth the can of worms .with the ls2 you mentioned ,check it with the valve covers off .can you do a compression check ?
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 73
Likes: 1
For $3200 you could probably get a stock LS3 short block from a reputable vendor with a 24x remember wheel installed on it. At one time WS6 Store offered one, Texas Speed, and Lingenfelter use to as well. That was a year or so ago. $2800-$3200 price range IIRC.
The plus of the LS2 is its a whole engine with accessories.
Best of luck with getting you car up and running again.
The plus of the LS2 is its a whole engine with accessories.
Best of luck with getting you car up and running again.
Last edited by 99 Black Bird T/A; Apr 10, 2018 at 09:30 AM.