And that makes you different than most of us???? lol

 

lol, no. No asshats in this thread, surprisingly.

 

Guess I'm the ******* you're referring to. I just call it how I see it. If your goal was to run 11.3 in the quarter. You was on a budget. Why spend 2500 on heads to run 11.3 in the quarter when you can do the same 11.3 in the quarter with 1300 heads. Hell I've seen guys with great heads but a poor cam choice ends them no where. Seen guys with a great cam choice with **** poo 241 heads run faster. It's all in the combo not just the heads.

 

 

Biggest gain i see is a thicker deck for real high compression or boost. The old gmpp ls6 heads would fit right into that group flow wise.

 

If I could do it over again, I'd go find an L33 on ebay and grab a T475 .96 1.32 turbo and put a small cam in it. It'd be a hell of a lot more fun, more powerful, easier to live with, and cheaper than my heads/cam/whatever build. In fact, I keep thinking about selling off all my **** and doing that and losing money on the initial build - but gaining cash in the long run. Hell, with FI, you can keep stock heads. Just pull them, stick some LS9 gaskets in there, and throw some ARP bolts on there.

Sink the money into the trans/rearend/suspension. Getting any power down is hard without the right stuff.

 

Already have a Dana 60, and TDP fully built T56. Rear end suspension is part of what is getting done once I get the h/c/i. My buddy is going to weld in the roll bar, mini-tubs, and LCA relocates, and install the coil-overs while I work on the motor. My plan to to run 345 tires. Just not sure if I want Toyo 345/40r17 or if I want to bump up to 19" wheels, and run something else.

 

I have no doubt that the S60 and Toyo 345s on my wagon are neutering the H/C/I LS1 powering it. By comparison the 9.5" and 305/50/R20s are not an issue with the Procharged LS2 in our TBSS (which is much more powerful and quicker/faster).

I believe you should reconsider your plan.

 

the S60 is definitely using power. I was down exactly 15RWHP from the same dyno, same time of year, and same tuner. And that was after increasing the intake plumbing by 5mm and adding a MAF screen. But I am more than willing to loose some HP to have more traction and not grenade parts.

 

I was making the same decision you are with bolt ons for the Ls1. I bought the BTR cam kit and was going to order heads. I decided to leak down engine before starting to install the cam/heads and had 40% leakdown in a couple cylinders. So I decided to do an ls1 iron block/ Ls3 head build.
408 c.i. iron Short block asy. $2100
GMPP CNC LS3 heads $1300 pr. After rebate.(changed the springs with the ones from the already purchased btr cam kit)
Ls3 Intake $237. parts for rod mod $40
Cloyes billet timing set $140
EPS cam $465
Ls2 valley cover w/ built in PVC $104

I listed this for an example to save you from doing it twice.
Leak down your engine before buying bolt ons.
30% leakage is the most for a daily driver.
I like to see less than 20% before tearing into an engine for h.p. bolt ons.

 

I only have 60k on the car, but I am going to check for leakdown before I pull the trigger.

 

lots of good points brought up in this thread..i am currently running ai ported 799 heads and a mid sized cam. Although it makes decent power and drives pretty well if I could do it all over again I would either just slap on a procharger or swap in a ls3. Both of those options provide more power down the road especially the boost option. With a ls3 you can literally just do basic bolt ons and make the same power and lots more torque and the car will drive like stock, port the heads and do a cam on that setup and you will make a lot more power then a h/c ls1 plus the ls3 can even handle boost better then the ls1. To be honest that's the route I may eventually go, ls3 swap with a mild cam first then later add a procharger. Trust me a h/c ls1 after a while feels slow and gets old.

 

Based on the track results people are seeing with the Advanced Induction 243/799 226 cc full CNC port work, you made a fine choice. My heads are currently going through that process, best of luck on the setup.

 

Depends on whether you do the work or pay a shop to do the work. By the time you pay labor for heads, cam and lifters you aren't that far off from a engine swap if you buy a built long block or low mileage used engine from the for sale forum. If you get an engine with forged pistons then that leaves more options open down the road.

 

I am definitely going with AI. Unfortunately, they are really busy right now, and are not replying to e-mails very much. I'm months away from actual purchase, so I don't mind waiting. I just need to know if they can weld the TFS heads for more compression. Considering what AI does with 241 heads, I am assuming that 11.5 compression can be done to 243s with stock P2V. If they weld TFS heads too... then I might be able to have 12+. And that is before milling/cam configurations. I am going flex fuel, and the tuner is an LS motor wizard, so I think that I can get a pretty nice high compression/corn combo.

 

 

A.I also has a phone number you could text, this is Phil's busiest time of year so even though my heads are actively being worked on, I know my recently unanswered emails are because of the insane work load. He will eventually get back to you, don't sweat it

 

Well, it looks like this plan has been put on hold. Gotta move my driveway so my mom can park her RV in my side yard. Maybe next fall.

 

This is exactly where I am at.
Heads, big cam, expensive intake, steep gears, way loose converter...... not saying I regret that decision cause it's fun but boost is in the car's near future.