Generation III Internal Engine 1997-2006 LS1 | LS6
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Spun Bearing? Good oil pressure.

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Old 06-21-2018, 07:54 AM
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Building a engine with a credit card sucks! Sit down and make a list of all parts needed, Price out each part, Save up and buy one part at a time until you have accumulated all the parts you will need, then put aside(as cash flow will allow) about 1K for all the little gotchas then proceed with your rebuild. This might take a little time but it will be rewarding because you won't have to cringe every month when Visa visits. Patience pays off...Don't mean to sound like your "Dad" but I've tried it both ways and finally figured out when you are in a hole STOP Digging...
Old 06-21-2018, 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by cookseyb
Building a engine with a credit card sucks! Sit down and make a list of all parts needed, Price out each part, Save up and buy one part at a time until you have accumulated all the parts you will need, then put aside(as cash flow will allow) about 1K for all the little gotchas then proceed with your rebuild. This might take a little time but it will be rewarding because you won't have to cringe every month when Visa visits. Patience pays off...Don't mean to sound like your "Dad" but I've tried it both ways and finally figured out when you are in a hole STOP Digging...
Yeah I hear you there. I had a good plan to pay it off quick but stuff comes up. I probably have technically paid the parts off now that I think of it.

At this point I'm seriously considering pulling the parts out and listing it all on Craigslist and selling it off as a roller.
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Old 06-21-2018, 09:21 AM
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If I were in your shoes and you are able to turn wrenches before I'd throw up my hands I'd pull the engine and tear it down. Its very possible you just lost a lifter, clean everything up and you have all your old parts. You can at least make a running car again. I wouldn't run the engine! Good Luck
Old 06-21-2018, 02:15 PM
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Op, if you do decide to pull it apart let us know what you find as I'm in the same boat. Good oil pressure, no metal in oil or filter and new lifters and pushrods.
Old 06-21-2018, 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Reaper_SS
Yeah I know it's not that big of a deal and plenty of people have gone through it. It's more of the money than anything. I'm having a tough time justifying spending $5k on it. I bought it for $8k a few years ago. Throwing that amount at a lower value car just doesn't seem responsible.

On the pull before it dropped HP it was 385 at the wheel. 366tq
What makes you think it's going to cost 5k to rebuild the bottom end? Like I said, the motor hasn't run long so it's unlikely the crank is all that trashed, same with the rods. Even if you built an entirely new bottom end, you're looking at 2k between rods and pistons, and machine work. Honestly you're looking at a few hundred bucks tops to clear up the bearing issue, assuming you do some of the work yourself. My machine shop charged me 80 to polish my crank, 200 for bearings, and 300 to blueprint the engine. They gave it all back to me and I assembled it myself (they would have normally charged 300 to assemble the shortblock).
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Old 06-21-2018, 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by HappySalesman
What makes you think it's going to cost 5k to rebuild the bottom end? Like I said, the motor hasn't run long so it's unlikely the crank is all that trashed, same with the rods. Even if you built an entirely new bottom end, you're looking at 2k between rods and pistons, and machine work. Honestly you're looking at a few hundred bucks tops to clear up the bearing issue, assuming you do some of the work yourself. My machine shop charged me 80 to polish my crank, 200 for bearings, and 300 to blueprint the engine. They gave it all back to me and I assembled it myself (they would have normally charged 300 to assemble the shortblock).
I say $5k because that was the high end of the only estimate i could get. That was if I handed over a fully assembled engine. I'm not sure how much is involved in doing more than that yet. I am using that figure because of typical add on costs I'm expecting handing over a 17 year old engine.
Old 06-22-2018, 09:58 AM
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junkyard 5.3, sell what you can out of your current setup. Don't go and spend another 3-5k on credit.
Old 06-22-2018, 03:15 PM
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Have you drained the rest of the oil, for evaluation, from the oil pan into a clean container w/o further contaminating it? I cannot determine if you have from your posts.
Old 06-22-2018, 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by bsf
Have you drained the rest of the oil, for evaluation, from the oil pan into a clean container w/o further contaminating it? I cannot determine if you have from your posts.
I did. Is there something I should look for?
Old 06-22-2018, 03:29 PM
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Yes, stuff that should not be there. You cut an oil filter open with a reciprocating saw and found metal debris. So what? Your troubleshooting thus far, as presented in this thread is insufficient to make the big decisions that have been discussed. Draining the oil, w/o further contamination, is an easy troubleshooting step to complete.

I want you to be well and have a functioning vehicle. There is no malicious intent in my response.
Old 06-22-2018, 04:04 PM
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The oil seemed thick and brown. Had grime on the magnet of the drain plug. The bottom of the oil catch pan did have like 4 small metal chips in it. I havent looked in the oil for any metal yet. I see now that cutting it with a saw was dumb but would it put glitter in the oil?

I know you are helping. I take no offense. I appreciate any input from you guys.
Old 06-22-2018, 05:00 PM
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Please provide photos of oil, drain plug magnet, and debris picked up after sweeping thoroughly through the oil with a magnet of sufficient strength. Hopefully members here with much more experience than I can then provide you better assistance. Seems you were getting a bit ahead of yourself, possibly with unnecessary distress, before effectively completing some preliminary troubleshooting.

ETA
Originally Posted by Reaper_SS
I see now that cutting it with a saw was dumb….
Unnecessarily harsh.
Old 06-22-2018, 06:15 PM
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I'm out of town this week end but I did take some pics. I didn't see any metal pooling to the bottom of the jug. I poured some into a glass jar to look through. There is some sludge at the bottom of the jug. This oil was only put in after the heads and cam was in. Would it get this dark only driving it a few harsh dyno miles?
Old 06-23-2018, 01:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Reaper_SS
I say $5k because that was the high end of the only estimate i could get. That was if I handed over a fully assembled engine. I'm not sure how much is involved in doing more than that yet. I am using that figure because of typical add on costs I'm expecting handing over a 17 year old engine.
When I took my motor apart last year, it barely looked used. Bearings had one scar in them, pistons still had the friction coating and cross-hatch on teh cylinder walls.

5k is ridiculous. We're talking about a spun bearing here, not a brand new motor. I would guess at 2k at the MOST if you dropped the car off at a shop, had them do ALL of the work, and picked it back up. I don't know your wrenching abilities, but you can obviously save cost by doing work yourself.
Old 06-27-2018, 12:56 PM
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Could me using a saw to cut the filter open put glitter in the oil in the filter? Im wondering if I should change the oil and let it run for awhile and check the filter again. Or would it just cause more damage? The rest of the oil doesnt show much evidence of metal. Trying to check out the minor stuff before tearing it down completely. Thanks
Old 06-27-2018, 09:27 PM
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Using the saw put chips in the filter, prolly not glitter so much. The fact that the element is so saturated with debris is a sure sign of a bearing gone south. I personally wouldn’t start it again.
Old 06-27-2018, 09:36 PM
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Thanks. That's what I thought. Just wanted to hear someone else say it before I started pulling it.
Old 06-27-2018, 09:52 PM
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Pull it. Post up some pics of the affected bearing(s). Hopefully it’s not a cam bearing.
Old 06-28-2018, 08:41 AM
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At the end of the day this is just a hobby so putting this stuff on credit to play is definitely to your own risk and detriment.... let it sit for awhile further diagnosing when you feel at it and then payoff your old tab with that tax money that is gonna be huge next year.... Do you have the capability to do the work yourself if possible? Pull motor etc?
Old 07-09-2018, 11:05 AM
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Reaper_SS, made any progress on this?


Quick Reply: Spun Bearing? Good oil pressure.



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