Tang2

Lol, well you never know. Some may think it was magic

Really? I'll look more into that, but I read through so many builds that soaked them. If I may ask, why shouldn't I?

Also, I'm a week or so away from getting the heads. Can I put the lifters straight in the motor from the oil and let them drain, or should I let them drain first?

dr_whigham

iTrader: (49)

I always soaked mine... Same exact Tupperware you're using too

Tang2

I just can't let the wife see that, she'd be pissed

HCI2000SS

iTrader: (2)

You think you'll have the car done before the season is over? Can't believe summer is almost over already lol

Tang2

For sure. If I get the heads and intake next week I'll probably have it done next weekend. I already updated my tune with the new injector data, as well as enough idle adjustments to get it to start and run (hopefully), so I can start working on my part throttle fueling over the following week. Hopefully I'll get some Dyno time by the end of the month to get my WOT fueling and timing done. As long as the weather works out I hope to hit Milan a few times in October.

HCI2000SS

iTrader: (2)

Cool. I might try hitting the new Lapper today myself. A few of my buds are going

Tang2

I didn't know they updated Lapeer, that sounds cool!

HCI2000SS

iTrader: (2)

Yep completely new owners with a completely new track. Might be better than Milan now

Tang2

If anyone is thinking they may be able to get away without thoroughly cleaning the threads in the block I beg you to think again.

This is after the first pass with the ARP thread cleaner




Second pass




After 3-4 tedious passes I was able to hand thread in the ARP studs with no problem.

Look at this stud...err or these studs

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

Nice to see someone taking the time to do everything right even when it sucks

Tang2

Thanks Darth, means a lot coming from you. You were pretty meticulous in your build, and I'm definitely trying to follow that example. Can't say I'm looking forward to measuring for the pushrods lol!

wannafbody

iTrader: (2)

So you are going from a 227 cam to a 226 cam? Why?

Tang2

Well, it's not that simple. My 227 is a reverse split: 227/224 .569 .563 113+2. The new cam is a 226/234 .604 .604 113+3. It won't sacrifice the drivability or low end grunt of my current cam, but will pick up quite a bit at an even higher RPM. It's also a lot better matched to the TFS heads with some proven numbers already. I really did consider a 230/234-6 cam, but the up top gain wouldn't be worth the sacrifice for what I enjoy doing with the car.

wannafbody

iTrader: (2)

I missed that it was a reverse split cam.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

There are more to cam specs to advertised or @.050 specs.............

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

FWIW I don't soak lifters and don't have issues. I did a full set in a 5.3 a couple months ago, took them straight from the boxes, put some assembly lube on the roller and in the cup, wiped oil on the lifter bodies, shoved em in the holes and poured motor oil over them then assembled it and fired it and it was quiet in a few seconds of running.

They just need lube on them and I'm a fan of assembly lube on the high pressure contact points, I roll the rollers in it on my finger and stick a dab in the cup.

Edit: I put assembly lube in the rocker cups and on the valve tips too.

G Atsma

I'm a fan of assembly lube on ANY surface that will wear against another surface.... I call it peace of mind...

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

Same here, I was referring to lifter install though so I didn't mention all the things I put it on.

Tang2

Hahahahahaha!

Chrisingermany

Looks to be an awesome build man. Cant wait to see the install pics and final results.