I have a 2000 Camaro SS with a stock LS1. I already completed all the supporting mods for a heads/cam swap (I think). It still has the stock 10-bolt with .323 gears (this makes me nervous). Here's a list of mods I've done so far:
-SLP lid, MAF screen removed, LS6 Intake, 1-7/8" headers, 3" cat-back w/cut-out, EGR & AIR delete, tuned by Frost.
-4L80e, Circle-D converter w/3200 stall
-BMR suspension: front shock tower brace, trans cross member, lower control arms, pan hard bar, and torque arm (all have poly-bushings)
-Nitto 555r tires on stock rims (rear only)
-drilled/slotted rotors, ceramic pads, KYB brand-AGX shocks
-power steering cooler deleted/replaced with air-air cooler.

I just bought a set of 317 heads with valve springs installed for cheap. I know the heads have to be milled due to a rough spot caused when the head gasket blew. I'm guessing about .010" would be enough to "clean" the mating surface. of the head. I'm not sure how much that would change the compression. I'm guessing I need to stay close to the stock compression ratio. Maybe not? I figured I'd get the heads ported while I'm at it.

I have been reading up on cam specs, but I'm still clueless about making all the parts work together. I plan to keep the LS6 intake. I know the FAST 90 or 102 would be better, but I'm not spending more on intakes. I also plan on making the 317 heads "work" with my set-up. I just don't know what work needs to be done, and what cam would be best for me.

This car is my daily driver, so "drive-ability" is top priority. I don't want it to stall when I pull up to a stop light. I also don't want that Mustang getting to the next stop light before me.

Should I just mill the heads, or should I get the chambers welded too? What cam specs would go well with these heads/intake?

 

I'm running pump gas, 93-octane. I would like to do a Flex-fuel mod/conversion in the future, but for now I'm stuck with E-10 pump gas.

 

 

I would be tickled shitless if I get over 400 hp to the wheels. My goal for now, is to have a low 12-second car that I can drive to work Mon-Fri. So, whatever HP it takes to do that, that's what I'm looking for.

 

Go with TFS and you'll skip right over the 12 sec club and you'll join the 11 second club with ease. Seen it done countless of times.

 

AND he wouldn't need a whole lotta cam to do it...

 

My bolt on only full weight (plus a system) 2000 SS ran 12.3, that was a 190k mile LS1 completely stock long block except the valve springs.

You're building your build a bit backwards. You're building it around heads you bought that you should have passed on, and building it around the ls6 intake.

Sell the 317 heads and keep your heads. Put a mild cam in it and call it done. Or just leave it as it is if you only want low 12's.

The other guys are right about the TFS heads, but you've already stated you don't want to pay for an intake I don't see you buying TFS heads

Your 10 bolt will be fine at the power levels you're considering, they will live behind an automatic getting beat on harder than you're going to beat on it.

 

We can get you setup with everything you'll need to run 12's keeping your stock heads; cam, spring set, pushrods, hardware, etc.

We can do some work with the 317's if you sent them in. We also have great deals on the cathedral heads complete too, these will come with our dual spring set already installed. https://www.livernoismotorsports.com/product/LPP761101

 

Apparently, I don't have a "normal" Camaro. I'm starting to call it a "Slomaro" The best this car ever ran stock was 14.9 sec in the 1/4 mile. After spending over $10k on it, I was able to get it down to 13.0 sec. It has only ran faster than that (12.8 sec.) once. I guess that one 12-sec pass was a fluke.

So, I don't think a "cam-only" build will get me where you think. I know the Trick-Flows are the shiznit, but I'm not spending that much on them. I got the 317s for $200 with springs that are good for .650 lift. I can get them ported and milled for an additional $800. So, I could spend $1k on a set of heads, or more than that on one Trick Flow head. You see where I'm going with this?

I was thinking that milling the 317's will make them similar to 243s on compression. Between that and a mild cam, I should be able to run what most Camaros run stock. A guy in my car club has a Z28 with 243s, a cam, and LS6 intake. He runs high 11's on motor, and high 10s on nitrous. I just want low 12s (without nitrous). Is that too much to ask for?

 

You're a little off but not horrible. My 2000 SS ran 13.7 stock, I've heard of people getting closer to 13.0 stock but I don't believe it too much. My car dynoed exactly what it should have stock and ran what it should have. 299hp/315tq 2.1 60 ft and 13.7 ET.

After I did lid, LS6 intake, long tubes and true duals, 3800 stall and 3.73 gears, it went 12.3, but it also ran 7.6 in the 1/8th, mine pulled hard till right before the end of the 1/8th then started to suck, needed a cam. Had a little suspension work in there too. I'd say you're close to on target now. If you're full weight. May need more converter or some driving changes. Or your tune is funky.

You spent all your money on stuff a lot of people do after they do a cam, I like that you did supporting mods first, that just means once you finally do a power adder it's only that much better.

Tossing just a cam in there will make more difference than you think.

I bet that converter is holding you back just a little too, it's a hair tight for the best ET.

Throw a good mid size cam in there (don't go huge you don't have enough converter) and you'll be mid to low 12's

The TFS heads we would recommend are $1700 for the pair and stomp absolute *** for what you get for the money. But you could do some basic head work and a cam for that money.

 

Well, it's good to know that I'm not the only one that's not running 11s with a stock LS1. People around here make it sound like all Gen 4s run 11s just because that's the world record.

I could get the converter re-stalled, but I like it tight. I wouldn't want more stall right now. I understand that it might be necessary after installing a bigger cam. For now, it's perfect for the way I drive. I'll try it with the current stall first. If it's not working out, I'll pull the converter and send it to Circle-D.

Like I said before, this is my daily driver. About 99% of the time, I'm just driving to work or to get groceries. I'm not going for max ETs. I just want to figure out a build that will keep it daily driveable, but not be a turd on the track. I was going to swap the 10-bolt for a 9" with .300 gears, but I decided to do the heads/cam first.

Yeah, reliability is important to me. That's why I upgraded the other stuff first. I'm also trying to juggle fuel mileage and performance. That task is becoming very difficult. In the end, I know performance will win.

 

if you end up doing the 799 heads mill them to get a proper static compression ratio to work with the cam that you like .consider a max torque cam ,it will not hurt your gas mileage much .

 

If driveability is your top priority like you said, then I would keep the overlap on the cam to a couple degrees max and it will drive very nice as long as the tune is good. What kind of 60' we're you cutting on the 13.0 pass. More power is great but you need to be 1.8 or better to have a chance at a decent ET for your goal. I had a 3200 stall on my intake and exhaust z28 and it would 1.6 sixty.

 

 

I don't have my time slips for the 13 sec runs with me, but I think they were about a 1.8-1.9sec 60 ft. My only 12 sec pass was with a 1.88 60ft. I don't think it will get better than that without different tires. I should still be able to runs 12's though.

I always run in a "street" configuration at the track. That includes the spare tire, extra jack, drinks, snacks, and tools. I could probably go a little faster if I take some of that out. Stickier tires would help too, but I like the Nittos.

 

Probably pretty smart! lol That way you can't forget anything when you leave! I KNOW I would! lol

 

Where's that Jacky Chan mind blown meme when I need it.

The more info you share the more it makes sense why your car is "slower than all the others". I didn't really believe you had some sort of unicorn (in a bad way) and you don't. It just seems you aren't willing to do what others do for lower ET's

That being said, I just browsed through again and it seems you don't really care much to go fast, you just want to go a little faster and retain dependability.

Right now I would say first do a mild cam, call BTR or Cam motion and discuss your goals and your build and let them know you want a cam that is easy on the valve train for max reliability. I bet you'll end up with a cam that'll get you roughly 50 hp and get you to around 12.5 in the 1/4. Then take out all that extra bs weight and run it on a 1/4 tank of gas with real tires and be in the 11's

 

Why do heads, cam setup and choke down with ls6 intake, stock tb, and maf?

do girdle and weld tubes on the 10 bolt. Goes long ways.

 

I have no idea what you're talking about.