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No I didn't yet, is there a trick to getting them out?
They either slide right out or they're kinda a bitch. Channel locks, pliers, vice grips whatever it takes to grab them. You may ruin them doing this so plan on getting a new set.
Whatever you do BE CAREFUL and don't knick the block surface.
Well took a hiatus due to work and the lady's car needed fixed (lower control arms on a g35x are a PITA to order from AutoZone haha). But all is well so far, in process of dropping front out with motor and tranny. Torque arm was pretty simple to get off, all lines are disconnected. Plan to sell off alot of the parts leftover (tranny, heads, cam, rear end...) To help fund for my manual swap and new rear end.
Just need to get a chain and good weather so I can hoist the car off the motor... I would've lifted the motor out but the hoists boom( curse you h.f.) isn't long enough or stong enough to support the weight, I'd have to pull the bumper to get close enough. Where is the best place to mount the chains/hooks from a engine hoist on the cars front end?
Doesnt quite answer my question lol. But my plans are to put in a new k member and new mounts. I know someone that's selling a t56 (pedals, clutch, wiring harness included), so i plan to do a t56 swap. With motor and transmission pulled, I can finish the work on the motor on my stand (wanted to clean it down and check to make sure it's clean of any debris from when I cleaned the deck) clean up the engine bay, and swap out the k member.
Most recommend high strength straps wrapped around the radiator core for lifting. I haven't done it myself so I can't say anything specific, but I've both read it and been told it so much that I don't question it anymore. Just make sure the straps can handle the weight and you don't put them in a spot that can bend easily.
Yeah I'll have to check that out, the straps seem better, less chances of scratching up the metal in the bay. Did a rough estimation, think 3 feet of clearance +jack height to clear lowest part of the front end.
Maybe I'll see if I can just get the parts I need then, if not I'll just sell it myself since he's selling the whole thing together. Think he's switching to a th400? Said he wanted to go auto auto for drag strip but didn't want a partial for my 4l60 lol.
Finally got the engine out, just needed a lil garage space (single car with a 8 foot ceiling lol)... Scared the **** outta me when it released from the frame rail lol, but it's mobile (put tires back on).. more to follow up in the next few weeks. Think I should start a new thread ? Seems to be decent people that return/deliver good information here though... 20.00 dolley from harbor freight (rated to 1000lbs) Probably too messy for others but it works for me lol Thought I needed the link undone but figured out I didn't have to
I have that same dolly in my garage. I use it to move small trees that get cut down on the property. Amazing how useful some of the harbor freight crap can be lol
Yeah the dollie, floor jack (really nice with double Piston lift((28in max I believe)) and the engine hoist ( not worth much since it's not long enough.. going to use it to pull engine from k member, probably going to bite the bullet and swap for a BMR kkmember with OEM brackets for power steering. Trying to find a decent deal on a rear end for the time being, was thinking a 12 bolt wouldn't be bad, nothing too track oriented regarding gearing and diff.
I was thinking of going with a tubular type k member, but I read plenty of things about those not being happy on street cars that see alot of potholes and awkward driveways. I figure if even 1% fail I'll be that 1‰ lol
I don't plan on daily driving it, kinda like a weekend car, go to a few track days. Im 2 mins from the highway so it's easy to avoid these streets with craters in them lol. My ultimate goal is to build a track worthy car for autocross or road racing (legal road racing...) Figured the k member would be a good start.
Biggest difference to me was the sway bar swap, didn't notice much for the koni str.t shocks... Could've saved up and bought some koni sports, but it's better than the decarbons haha. Buddy has a 2000 wS6 with sub frame connectors and a BMR torque arm, seemed a little more solid to me (no creaks when going over bumps lol) . I always thought it was normal on our cars due to the frame construction (uni body)
It's funny cause my 99 v6 with 190k is solid on the road, no creaks or anything, wonder if I'm overlooking something? (Bad bushing or springs not seated correctly... Etc....)
A higher power level stresses the body more than you think. One reason, among others,for subframe connectors. And on the V6 it likely has a softer suspension which absorbs more irregularities so its body creaks way less.
I know BMR has package deals for a k member and a arms. I wonder what deals they have on subframe connectors? Do they usually have sales around Christmas or income season?
11-15-2018, 03:53 PM
