Newb Question - 5.3 LS Teardown - Is This OK?
12-25-2018, 12:13 PM
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Newb Question - 5.3 LS Teardown - Is This OK? 
First-time poster newb question here. I just began tearing down a 5.3 LM7, took off the water pump and the driver's side water hole/inlet appears to be cracked? Or, is it supposed to look this way (see 2nd attached picture)? Also, the water pump bolts look pretty gnarly/burnt, is this normal or did I just waste a bunch of $ on a crap engine?
12-25-2018, 02:35 PM
#2
ModSquad
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It’s not cracked. That gallery shoots up into the cylinder head. It’s just the way the block was machined. Those bolts will need to be wire wheeled to clean them up before you re-assemble. I’d hit the water pump machined surface, on the front of the block, with a fiber disc before re-assembly also.
Whats your plans for the engine Jasper?
Whats your plans for the engine Jasper?
12-25-2018, 02:54 PM
#3
TECH Senior Member
Yep. Quite ugly, but quite normal! As Scott said, clean it all up and you should be fine. Welcome to the forum! AND I hope your Christmas is a Blessed one for you!
12-25-2018, 03:42 PM
#4
Zackly… all quite ordinary.
Water flow is from the pump, into those lower passages on each side, through the block, up through the metering orifices in the head gaskets, through the heads, down through the upper passages back into the block, then back into the pump; then to the radiator and back. Part of the passage in the photo is as-cast (toward the top right), and part is machined.
The WP gaskets are notorious for leaking, which you can clearly see those have been doing vigorously. That's why those bolts look like that. That's just rust. As said, wire-brush em good, and use a disc GENTLY to clean up the block and the TC. Especially be gentle to the TC, since it's aluminum, and it's amazingly eeeeezy to put a divot in it with overly enthusiastic grinding.
Water flow is from the pump, into those lower passages on each side, through the block, up through the metering orifices in the head gaskets, through the heads, down through the upper passages back into the block, then back into the pump; then to the radiator and back. Part of the passage in the photo is as-cast (toward the top right), and part is machined.
The WP gaskets are notorious for leaking, which you can clearly see those have been doing vigorously. That's why those bolts look like that. That's just rust. As said, wire-brush em good, and use a disc GENTLY to clean up the block and the TC. Especially be gentle to the TC, since it's aluminum, and it's amazingly eeeeezy to put a divot in it with overly enthusiastic grinding.
12-25-2018, 07:07 PM
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It’s not cracked. That gallery shoots up into the cylinder head. It’s just the way the block was machined. Those bolts will need to be wire wheeled to clean them up before you re-assemble. I’d hit the water pump machined surface, on the front of the block, with a fiber disc before re-assembly also.
Whats your plans for the engine Jasper?
Whats your plans for the engine Jasper?
Clean and paint entire engine
Replace water pump
Replace valve cover gaskets
Replace knock sensors
New plugs/wires
Replace serpentine belt
Replace intake gasket
Stainless headers (Anything Scout)
Cold air intake (Anything Scout)
Replace thermostat
May replace some of the other sensors
Mild cam - thinking about the Texas Speed & Performance Low Lift Kit (stage I or II)
New engine/transmission harness and computer reprogram from PCI
Any other suggestions?
12-25-2018, 07:09 PM
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12-25-2018, 07:11 PM
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Zackly… all quite ordinary.
Water flow is from the pump, into those lower passages on each side, through the block, up through the metering orifices in the head gaskets, through the heads, down through the upper passages back into the block, then back into the pump; then to the radiator and back. Part of the passage in the photo is as-cast (toward the top right), and part is machined.
The WP gaskets are notorious for leaking, which you can clearly see those have been doing vigorously. That's why those bolts look like that. That's just rust. As said, wire-brush em good, and use a disc GENTLY to clean up the block and the TC. Especially be gentle to the TC, since it's aluminum, and it's amazingly eeeeezy to put a divot in it with overly enthusiastic grinding.
Water flow is from the pump, into those lower passages on each side, through the block, up through the metering orifices in the head gaskets, through the heads, down through the upper passages back into the block, then back into the pump; then to the radiator and back. Part of the passage in the photo is as-cast (toward the top right), and part is machined.
The WP gaskets are notorious for leaking, which you can clearly see those have been doing vigorously. That's why those bolts look like that. That's just rust. As said, wire-brush em good, and use a disc GENTLY to clean up the block and the TC. Especially be gentle to the TC, since it's aluminum, and it's amazingly eeeeezy to put a divot in it with overly enthusiastic grinding.
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12-25-2018, 07:43 PM
#8
ModSquad
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Thanks 70, good to hear that it's normal. Engine has 87k miles, it's going into an IH Scout II with a 4l60E and NP241C TC. Plans include:
Clean and paint entire engine
Replace water pump
Replace valve cover gaskets
Replace knock sensors
New plugs/wires
Replace serpentine belt
Replace intake gasket
Stainless headers (Anything Scout)
Cold air intake (Anything Scout)
Replace thermostat
May replace some of the other sensors
Mild cam - thinking about the Texas Speed & Performance Low Lift Kit (stage I or II)
New engine/transmission harness and computer reprogram from PCI
Any other suggestions?
Clean and paint entire engine
Replace water pump
Replace valve cover gaskets
Replace knock sensors
New plugs/wires
Replace serpentine belt
Replace intake gasket
Stainless headers (Anything Scout)
Cold air intake (Anything Scout)
Replace thermostat
May replace some of the other sensors
Mild cam - thinking about the Texas Speed & Performance Low Lift Kit (stage I or II)
New engine/transmission harness and computer reprogram from PCI
Any other suggestions?
12-25-2018, 08:48 PM
#9
TECH Senior Member
Thanks 70, good to hear that it's normal. Engine has 87k miles, it's going into an IH Scout II with a 4l60E and NP241C TC. Plans include:
Clean and paint entire engine
Replace water pump
Replace valve cover gaskets
Replace knock sensors
New plugs/wires
Replace serpentine belt
Replace intake gasket
Stainless headers (Anything Scout)
Cold air intake (Anything Scout)
Replace thermostat
May replace some of the other sensors
Mild cam - thinking about the Texas Speed & Performance Low Lift Kit (stage I or II)
New engine/transmission harness and computer reprogram from PCI
Any other suggestions?
Clean and paint entire engine
Replace water pump
Replace valve cover gaskets
Replace knock sensors
New plugs/wires
Replace serpentine belt
Replace intake gasket
Stainless headers (Anything Scout)
Cold air intake (Anything Scout)
Replace thermostat
May replace some of the other sensors
Mild cam - thinking about the Texas Speed & Performance Low Lift Kit (stage I or II)
New engine/transmission harness and computer reprogram from PCI
Any other suggestions?
12-25-2018, 11:06 PM
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Absolutely, definitely going to be swapping out the harness with the sensors. Looks like it would be a complete pain in the a$$ to change once all put back together and in the truck.
12-25-2018, 11:15 PM
#11
Looks like you have a solid plan. Since you’ll have the front cover off for the cam swap I would at minimum replace the oil pump o ring while you’re in there. Personally I would install a brand new oil pump although a new oil pump is probably not totally necessary as your engine has relatively low miles. But the o ring I would replace for sure.
And welcome to the site!
And welcome to the site!
12-25-2018, 11:17 PM
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I've read where the F-Body Camaro/Firebird stock manifolds fit inside the Scout frame and only cost around $100 for a good used set versus $250 for the headers. What are the overall pluses and minuses of cast manifolds versus stainless headers for my application, besides the cost advantage? Which would have the power advantage?
12-26-2018, 12:23 AM
#13
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If most of your running is low to mid RPM, part throttle running, manifolds will do fine for that, and are more durable. Between that and a mild cam like I described above, that engine will do whatever you want compared to what it came with.
12-26-2018, 11:45 AM
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Looks like you have a solid plan. Since you’ll have the front cover off for the cam swap I would at minimum replace the oil pump o ring while you’re in there. Personally I would install a brand new oil pump although a new oil pump is probably not totally necessary as your engine has relatively low miles. But the o ring I would replace for sure.
And welcome to the site!
And welcome to the site!
12-26-2018, 12:23 PM
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FormerVendor
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Lite Build = Crower regrind Hi Jasper, MY METHOD :
Crower Cams Regring (my spec) = $200.00
My Avon Billet timing set = $158.00 (single)
2010 Camaro Oil Pump = $90.00 (GM Dealer)
Z-06 Yellow or Blue Valve Springs (Single OEM) = $50.00
LS-7 OEM Exhaust Manifolds = $100.00
MY GEN IV Coils= $260.00
Lance 949-250-1797
Crower Cams Regring (my spec) = $200.00
My Avon Billet timing set = $158.00 (single)
2010 Camaro Oil Pump = $90.00 (GM Dealer)
Z-06 Yellow or Blue Valve Springs (Single OEM) = $50.00
LS-7 OEM Exhaust Manifolds = $100.00
MY GEN IV Coils= $260.00
Lance 949-250-1797
12-26-2018, 12:36 PM
#16
Hi Jasper, MY METHOD :
Crower Cams Regring (my spec) = $200.00
My Avon Billet timing set = $158.00 (single)
2010 Camaro Oil Pump = $90.00 (GM Dealer)
Z-06 Yellow or Blue Valve Springs (Single OEM) = $50.00
LS-7 OEM Exhaust Manifolds = $100.00
MY GEN IV Coils= $260.00
Lance 949-250-1797
Crower Cams Regring (my spec) = $200.00
My Avon Billet timing set = $158.00 (single)
2010 Camaro Oil Pump = $90.00 (GM Dealer)
Z-06 Yellow or Blue Valve Springs (Single OEM) = $50.00
LS-7 OEM Exhaust Manifolds = $100.00
MY GEN IV Coils= $260.00
Lance 949-250-1797
I'd seriously consider going with the above. That's really cheap for a really good setup. That and I've come to learn to trust anything Lance recommends.
12-27-2018, 07:56 PM
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Hi Jasper, MY METHOD :
Crower Cams Regring (my spec) = $200.00
My Avon Billet timing set = $158.00 (single)
2010 Camaro Oil Pump = $90.00 (GM Dealer)
Z-06 Yellow or Blue Valve Springs (Single OEM) = $50.00
LS-7 OEM Exhaust Manifolds = $100.00
MY GEN IV Coils= $260.00
Lance 949-250-1797
Crower Cams Regring (my spec) = $200.00
My Avon Billet timing set = $158.00 (single)
2010 Camaro Oil Pump = $90.00 (GM Dealer)
Z-06 Yellow or Blue Valve Springs (Single OEM) = $50.00
LS-7 OEM Exhaust Manifolds = $100.00
MY GEN IV Coils= $260.00
Lance 949-250-1797
12-27-2018, 08:11 PM
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TECH Senior Member
12-28-2018, 12:44 PM
#20