dug

iTrader: (10)

I dont want to spend the money for double rollers. Im thinkin the stock chain should be fine as long as I dont rev the engine up in neutral.

Silvr98z28

I ran mine for at least 200 passes without a problem. Including the time below.

Mike Hoffpauir

I'm still running the stock chain. If you can afford an aftermarket one, it couldnt hurt to replace it. But, if you are trying to do the cam swap as inexpensive as possible it shouldnt hurt to reuse a relatively low-mileage chain. A high mileage chain, on the other hand, I would change.

DEEZ98Z

iTrader: (5)

DITTO


</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Mike Hoffpauir:
<strong> But, if you are trying to do the cam swap as inexpensive as possible it shouldnt hurt to reuse a relatively low-mileage chain. A high mileage chain, on the other hand, I would change. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">

<small>[ March 21, 2003, 04:29 PM: Message edited by: DEEZ98Z ]</small>

Zeta

Double roller also requires the ATI pulley to be machined. It also adds more rotational mass to the engine.

A new rollmaster single row timing set can be had for about 70$. I forget the stock cost.

Revving in neutral is stupid.

The issue is if you have an aggressive cam, high spring pressures and you are regularly keeping it at high rpm, and then there is a lot of stress on the timing chain [and the rest of the motor]. A single is going to wear [read stretch] more quickly than a double. A stretched chain changes your cam timing.

dug

iTrader: (10)

Im just gonna reuse the old chain. Its a 2000 and has 72k miles. Hopefully its highway miles. Dont know since I bought used.

Anyway, Ill look it over carefully before putting it back on. From my experience with mountain bike chains is that its best to replace chains often or not at all. If you leave the chain on too long, the gears wear to the chain and wont work right with a new chain. Then you end up needing to buy new gears along with the chain.

felton316

72k miles!!! I would replace it while you have everything off. $70 is alot cheaper than a new motor.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

At 72K I would certainly replace the chain, even if only with a new stock chain.

I reused my stock chain with no issues. It had only 5K miles on it though.

I've seen stock chains do fine under some severe conditions, like with boost + N2O revving to 7100rpm and running 10.7 @130. They are pretty strong for stock, IMO. I plan to keep mine till somewhere in the 50K range. That will take me about 20 more years to achive! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

bigSS

What would reving the car in neutral have to do with anything? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />

<small>[ March 22, 2003, 01:55 AM: Message edited by: bigSS ]</small>

Slowhawk

iTrader: (12)

I agree change it with 72k miles.Why risk blowing a motor.If your real cheap,I'll sell you my stock chain for $20 inc shipping.It has 6k miles.(no gears)

Mike Hoffpauir

Yeah just to beat the drum again, I would change a 72000 mile chain. I would consider that high mileage ahah!

dug

iTrader: (10)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by bigSS:
<strong> What would reving the car in neutral have to do with anything? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">When the engine revs up the cam keeps up by being pulled by the chain. The quicker the engine accelerates the more tension will be on the chain. Trust me, full throttle revs in neutal is abusive to valvetrain parts, especially the chain and valvesprings.

Anyway, Yeah Im not too fond of the idea of using an old chain. If I replace the chain Im gonna replace the gears as well. Does the rollmaster kit come with the gears or just the chain?

I8COBRA

iTrader: (56)

The Rollmaster Double comes with everything needed to install it.

HITMANSS

I swapped in a 218/224 cam w/ 80K+ miles on my engine. I had a new Comp Cams chain in a box for the install, but after inspecting the old chain, left it in. It was not stretched at all, & looked brand new.

I don't race very often, & seldom hit the rev limiter. I will check the chain again at 125K miles or so.

JoSeY

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by HITMANSS:
<strong> I swapped in a 218/224 cam w/ 80K+ miles on my engine. I had a new Comp Cams chain in a box for the install, but after inspecting the old chain, left it in. It was not stretched at all, & looked brand new.

I don't race very often, & seldom hit the rev limiter. I will check the chain again at 125K miles or so. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I just did Heads and 218/224 cam with double valve springs reusing my 95K mile chain....Always been under 6500rpms, always had royal purple...looked, felt, new....I left it on...got 1K on the H/C now and GOING STRONG. Just my .022908435r730243520 cents.

LOnSLO

iTrader: (15)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Zeta:
<strong> Double roller also requires the ATI pulley to be machined. It also adds more rotational mass to the engine.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">No machining required for the ASP pulley (if that's the one you're talking about.) As far as weight, there is minimal difference. I have a single row Iwis Ketten chain now, but will soon be upgrading to the double roller

LOnSLO

iTrader: (15)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Zeta:
<strong> Double roller also requires the ATI pulley to be machined. It also adds more rotational mass to the engine.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">No machining required for the ASP pulley (if that's the one you're talking about.) As far as weight, there is minimal difference. I have a single row Iwis Ketten chain now, but will soon be upgrading to the double roller

Fenris Ulf

Mike said it best. It is relatively cheap insurance when you consider how much a rebuild would cost.