New lifters, lots of noise
#1
Teching In
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
New lifters, lots of noise
Rebuilt the engine over the winter, all new everything. Engine has good oil pressure 50psi cold, 40psi hot. But the lifters are still noisy. I have hardened pushrods. Checked length multiple times with the comp cams tool. BTR dual .660 springs, summit racing pro LS stage 2 turbo cam. I dropped the pan and put in a new GM oil pickup tube, new GM oil pan gasket, and a new GM blue pickup tube o-ring. Still no change. Oil pressure was verified with a mechanical gauge. Im starting to wonder if my $100 ebay LS7 style lifters are the problem. Could this be a possibility? I can’t think of anything else that could be causing this problem. I’m getting oil to the rocker arms. Not a ton but enough to make a mess if I rev it with the valve covers off. Oil pressure raises with rpm. I’m at a loss here
#5
Teching In
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
They’re 5/16 diameter, 7.400 length
using the comp cams checker which is a base length of 6.8. I got 10 1/2 turns and each turn is .05. Then I added my .075 preload and ended up with the 7.4 length. Then I snugged them all up and then torqued them starting from the middle moving to the outsides
using the comp cams checker which is a base length of 6.8. I got 10 1/2 turns and each turn is .05. Then I added my .075 preload and ended up with the 7.4 length. Then I snugged them all up and then torqued them starting from the middle moving to the outsides
#7
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (6)
They’re 5/16 diameter, 7.400 length
using the comp cams checker which is a base length of 6.8. I got 10 1/2 turns and each turn is .05. Then I added my .075 preload and ended up with the 7.4 length. Then I snugged them all up and then torqued them starting from the middle moving to the outsides
using the comp cams checker which is a base length of 6.8. I got 10 1/2 turns and each turn is .05. Then I added my .075 preload and ended up with the 7.4 length. Then I snugged them all up and then torqued them starting from the middle moving to the outsides
Trending Topics
#8
Teching In
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I’m gonna pull the valve covers to double check the rockers again now that it’s ran a little while. I’ll measure them again with a caliper. They aren’t overly loud like no oil pressure loud. But the sound is still faintly there. More than stock
#9
11 Second Club
iTrader: (3)
There's not enough of the story here to determine what the root cause is and lots of questions will come to mind. Don't take these question the wrong way I'm just asking?
How did you go about measuring the pushrod length? Are you familiar with the EOIC method? Did you make sure that you were on the base circle of the cam for your measurements? Did you measure more than one of the lifters to see if you were getting a consistent measurement? Who assembled the heads and verified the clearances? What's the condition of the rocker arms and what all has been done to them? Are the pushrods the correct size for the application.
From what your describing it sounds as though the lifters aren't building up enough pressure to dampen the load and perhaps you either have too much or not enough preload on them. Are these quality lifters? What engine oil weight are you running? A 7.400 length is equivalent to a stock length pushrod and if it's too long then the lifter will not have enough oil in them to cushion the load and the same thing can happen when a pushrod is too short it won't have enough preload to properly pump up the lifter. I personally would not take a chance on something like lifters and would have opted for Johnson lifters or purchased new OEM's. When you said $100 Ebay LS7 style lifters I started questioning them too.
How did you go about measuring the pushrod length? Are you familiar with the EOIC method? Did you make sure that you were on the base circle of the cam for your measurements? Did you measure more than one of the lifters to see if you were getting a consistent measurement? Who assembled the heads and verified the clearances? What's the condition of the rocker arms and what all has been done to them? Are the pushrods the correct size for the application.
From what your describing it sounds as though the lifters aren't building up enough pressure to dampen the load and perhaps you either have too much or not enough preload on them. Are these quality lifters? What engine oil weight are you running? A 7.400 length is equivalent to a stock length pushrod and if it's too long then the lifter will not have enough oil in them to cushion the load and the same thing can happen when a pushrod is too short it won't have enough preload to properly pump up the lifter. I personally would not take a chance on something like lifters and would have opted for Johnson lifters or purchased new OEM's. When you said $100 Ebay LS7 style lifters I started questioning them too.
#10
11 Second Club
iTrader: (3)
It would be nice to hear a clip as it may be fine and typical noises. The valve spring's job is to keep the valves in contact with the rocker arm and on the camshaft and often times what your hearing is the valves closing in their seats.
#11
Teching In
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It’s the comp cams 7702-1 checker. I spun the motor over a few times, found TDC on cylinder 1. Found 0 lash with the pushrod tool. Counted the turns, added my preload and it came out to be 7.4. Did the same thing on cylinder 2 and 3. They were all consistent so I ordered the 7.4 pushrods. When installing them I get basically 1 full turn to tight. Which from what I’ve read should be about right. Maybe I’m wrong
#12
I'm with 01Camaro on this. Tell us the whole story.
And I'm suspect in your 1st post. What are Ebay LS7 "Style" lifters? the stock replacement lifters (Ls7) are proven and affordable for street setups.
If the preload is in fact set at .075" on ALL lifters, that engine should be pretty quiet, assuming all else is right.
.
And I'm suspect in your 1st post. What are Ebay LS7 "Style" lifters? the stock replacement lifters (Ls7) are proven and affordable for street setups.
If the preload is in fact set at .075" on ALL lifters, that engine should be pretty quiet, assuming all else is right.
.
#14
Teching In
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
https://www.ebay.com/itm/LS1-LS2-LS3...-/273717282492
This is the exact set I bought. In the description it says they are Oem but they came in unmarked packaging. I thought maybe my spring pressure was too much for them but based off what you guys are saying it sounds like I have a bigger issue and maybe it’s not the lifters. Maybe I have oil pressure but not enough to keep them pumped up. Was thinking of buying better lifters but now I’m thinking I should save my money and look into it deeper
This is the exact set I bought. In the description it says they are Oem but they came in unmarked packaging. I thought maybe my spring pressure was too much for them but based off what you guys are saying it sounds like I have a bigger issue and maybe it’s not the lifters. Maybe I have oil pressure but not enough to keep them pumped up. Was thinking of buying better lifters but now I’m thinking I should save my money and look into it deeper
#15
11 Second Club
iTrader: (3)
12576400 is the part number I found for the OEM LS7 lifters.
#16
11 Second Club
iTrader: (3)
The part number you have is correct also though.
#17
11 Second Club
iTrader: (3)
It’s the comp cams 7702-1 checker. I spun the motor over a few times, found TDC on cylinder 1. Found 0 lash with the pushrod tool. Counted the turns, added my preload and it came out to be 7.4. Did the same thing on cylinder 2 and 3. They were all consistent so I ordered the 7.4 pushrods. When installing them I get basically 1 full turn to tight. Which from what I’ve read should be about right. Maybe I’m wrong
Example: It takes 13-1/2 turns to fully seat the rocker arm in the pedestal. If the pushrod is too short you will reach 13-1/2 turns but still have too much play before zero lash but if the pushrod is too long then you will not reach 13-1/2 turns at zero lash. Once you've determined zero lash and you know that the rocker arm is fully seated in the pedestal then you carefully remove PR length checker tool and measure it. You can go by the turn method but I always used a caliper gauge to measure the length and then added the correct preload and ordered overall length pushrods.
#18
11 Second Club
iTrader: (3)
The EOIC method:
Remove the spark plugs from the engine as this makes turning the motor over easier. Start on the No.1 but really you can pick any cylinder you want but what your looking for is the moment when the exhaust rocker arm on the cylinder your working on begins to open. Once it starts to open stop turning the motor over because the intake rocker for that cylinder is now on the base circle of the cam. For the exhaust you turn the engine over until you see the intake valve rocker arm beginning to close and then stop as the exhaust valve for that cylinder is now on the base circle of the cam. Of course on the compression stroke TDC means that both valves are closed.
Remove the spark plugs from the engine as this makes turning the motor over easier. Start on the No.1 but really you can pick any cylinder you want but what your looking for is the moment when the exhaust rocker arm on the cylinder your working on begins to open. Once it starts to open stop turning the motor over because the intake rocker for that cylinder is now on the base circle of the cam. For the exhaust you turn the engine over until you see the intake valve rocker arm beginning to close and then stop as the exhaust valve for that cylinder is now on the base circle of the cam. Of course on the compression stroke TDC means that both valves are closed.
#19
12499225 is the part number. That set you ordered is correct and priced very well with all of the extras. Great find!
Just go through each lifter one by one and make sure each lobe is on the BASE CIRCLE when measuring. Also, take a straightedge and lay them across your valve tips. Are all of your valves installed dead on even?
I purchased a NEW set of heads that we're CNC ported, new seats with fresh grind, blah blah. But when installed them, I found I needed to run two sets of pushrods. 7.425 on the Intake and 7.450 on the exhaust to
to the "Approximate" Pre load of .08". They were super quiet and ran for a very long time on XE-R lobes without a single issue.
Measure, Measure, Measure, it's the ONLY way. get the right preload on every single lifter. Good Luck!
Just go through each lifter one by one and make sure each lobe is on the BASE CIRCLE when measuring. Also, take a straightedge and lay them across your valve tips. Are all of your valves installed dead on even?
I purchased a NEW set of heads that we're CNC ported, new seats with fresh grind, blah blah. But when installed them, I found I needed to run two sets of pushrods. 7.425 on the Intake and 7.450 on the exhaust to
to the "Approximate" Pre load of .08". They were super quiet and ran for a very long time on XE-R lobes without a single issue.
Measure, Measure, Measure, it's the ONLY way. get the right preload on every single lifter. Good Luck!
#20
TECH Addict
Get a digital caliper(Harbour Freight has one that is fairly cheap) and measure your pushrod checker. Doing the turns always leaves some error. Get zero lash measure and then add the preload you want.