Were did I go wrong with my engine combo
#101
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (8)
So, all you really needed was a junkyard 5.3L or 6.0L. You could have boosted either of those up to 500 whp with the supercharger that you had. Do you still have the supercharger?
You asked where your build went wrong, and there it is. You should have stayed boosted to meet your goals.
You asked where your build went wrong, and there it is. You should have stayed boosted to meet your goals.
#102
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
I apologize. I must have misread one of your first posts that sounded like you had 2 options and the vendor steered you towards an 8500 NA setup instead of boost. I would still like to know your definition of streetable. Are you expecting it to drive like stock or do you recognize that to make 500whp, there will be compromises.
#103
10 Second Club
iTrader: (26)
That is a very reasonable expectation. I would keep the cam for now, consider an intake change, rev to 7200, and most importantly get a 2nd opinion on the tune. Or if you have the means to pull the tune out of the car post it up and some of us who tune can make some observations.
#104
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
I sold the vortec g trim, and it wasn’t after cooled. And I wanted to stay n/a. I already have an supercharged pos at home that breaks all the time. That’s y I all I wanted was 500 wrhp and be streetable
#106
Moderator
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: My own internal universe
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I would love to peak at this tune.
#107
9 Second Club
iTrader: (13)
I didn’t expect it to drive like stock , I expected when stopping at a red light or a stop sign the car wouldn’t die on me , There was another h/c/I Camaro on the dyno the same day the guy had no problems with it , the shop used tsp prc heads and cam and fast 92 intake, his stock bottom end ls1 made 460 wheel ,
#108
Ya if it can't idle at all and it dies when you come to a stop then we have an issue here. It sounds like it wasn't tuned at all! Doesn't change the fact that the cam is wrong and the fast TB is known to have issues. I'd make them retune it until they get it right. You paid for it right? Make them fix it. If they refuse to fix it for free I'd slam them over every board there is. But make sure everything is in check before you blame the tuner.
#109
I did calculate the IVC. And it is the reason I asked about compression. At 12:1 it would be much better.
Assuming a 4-degree advance on the OP current cam, IVC is still 50 degrees. That is why it is gutless. Low dynamic compression.
To truly take advantage of this cam it needs rpm and compression. If the OP plans to rev this thing, then mill the heads for some compression. Would be a lot of milling. If not, then swap the cam.
If you want to test the theory, out in a keyed timing set much cheaper and advance the cam 3-4 degrees. See how much better it runs.
Assuming a 4-degree advance on the OP current cam, IVC is still 50 degrees. That is why it is gutless. Low dynamic compression.
To truly take advantage of this cam it needs rpm and compression. If the OP plans to rev this thing, then mill the heads for some compression. Would be a lot of milling. If not, then swap the cam.
If you want to test the theory, out in a keyed timing set much cheaper and advance the cam 3-4 degrees. See how much better it runs.
yes low dynamic compression is what i was getting at.
If some have posted you can tune it in. I would tend to believe them. Most guys on boards with alot of post, helping people out, are usually correct.
I only have 8 post,but i probably have over 4000 dyno pulls under my belt and who knows how many engine combinations.just saying, From single cylinder 4 strokes and 2 strokes to cars. Doesn't matter what the engine, there comes a point where you cant tune it. 1st thing any dyno operator should do, is to look at the combo and determine where peak hp and peak tq are going to land at, before any pulls are done, especially peak tq rpm (If not run away) the engine builder should of already known this tho. Compression sure does help, as do intakes, but i will say this, the one thing you want is the fuel atomize and burn. Combustion is what is needed to increase rpm and keep the dyno chart climbing. More air increases combustion, as would more compression, ,can also change to different fuel with a different burn speed, its hard to argue with more trapped air. Just basic stuff really.
#110
TECH Senior Member
Post count means nada. Experience DOES count. You make several good points.
Welcome aboard, if nobody's said it before!
Welcome aboard, if nobody's said it before!
#112
TECH Senior Member
#113
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
I finally took the car to the track , car idles 100% better than b4 , mph seems low for 448 wrhp Hopefully after the 4th of July I’ll be able to install the new cam from cam motion and warr tb
#114
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
#115
11 Second Club
Hey bud. Sorry as didn't see this thread earlier. I have a 383 for maybe just some info on setup/results. I'd like to start by saying to get 500rwhp, through a stalled auto and a 9", is a bit harder than through a M6 & a 12 bolt. So the cam in my 383 is a 235/239 116+2. Only 5* of overlap at .050". Has a lump at idle. Makes peak tq at 4700 peak power around 6500. Revs reach above 7k. Seeing the cam size you have/had and only revving to 6500 is not helping. Seriously if I ever went auto I'd want at least a 4000-4500 stall with my exact engine combo.
It's all about your goals with the car.
It's all about your goals with the car.
#118
11 Second Club
No reply??
Just to clarify. Myself, for one, will never just tell someone to do something on their car. Especially over the net. If someone wants my opinion or I think some info would help I'm glad to give. To me the end decision should be made by the car owner.
I guess I can understand why some think "too much back & forth" or "bad info". But with an engine combo like this there are several ways to go about getting it right. Not only just one. All coming down to what the owner really wants out of the car & what he'd be happy with.
I think there is a lot of good info in this thread about numerous things to think about. At the end of the day the guy who spends more time thinking & researching about a combo to make it right. Will come out on top next to someone who just threw a combo together. (Not against you OP)
Just also know lots of people have gone through this type of thing. I'd hopefully say we'd all like you to be happy with a good performing combo OP.
Just to clarify. Myself, for one, will never just tell someone to do something on their car. Especially over the net. If someone wants my opinion or I think some info would help I'm glad to give. To me the end decision should be made by the car owner.
I guess I can understand why some think "too much back & forth" or "bad info". But with an engine combo like this there are several ways to go about getting it right. Not only just one. All coming down to what the owner really wants out of the car & what he'd be happy with.
I think there is a lot of good info in this thread about numerous things to think about. At the end of the day the guy who spends more time thinking & researching about a combo to make it right. Will come out on top next to someone who just threw a combo together. (Not against you OP)
Just also know lots of people have gone through this type of thing. I'd hopefully say we'd all like you to be happy with a good performing combo OP.
#119
TECH Fanatic
Edit:. JakeFusion is right I'd try something around 6 degrees overlap @ 0.050 to replace the Cam you have, try more stall and then more cam if it's not enough from there
Last edited by stockA4; 06-17-2019 at 09:47 PM.
#120
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
I finally took the car to the track , car idles 100% better than b4 , mph seems low for 448 wrhp Hopefully after the 4th of July I’ll be able to install the new cam from cam motion and warr tb