Blowed up the boosted 370ci!!!
Anyways yesterday i finally got around to pulling engine. During inspection i noticed it busted the the #6 cylinder wall all to hell. Busted tht piston and broke tht rod. Damaged a couple other rods and pistons from all the crap bouncing around.
The #6 & #5 rod bearings had spun and looked the worse. #8 rod bearing looked bad as well. #3 main thrust looked pretty bad as well. Broke cam!
I built this engine and it seemed to be doing really well. Tune was a lil fat but safe. 16 psi boost.
Had 40psi hot idle oil psi and over 60psi wot.
Diamond pistons, lunati boosted i beam rods, stock crank, king hp main and rod bearings. All machine work done at local machine shop. I was spinning it to 7600rpm. Maybe tht could have been an issue?
Bearing clearance were .025 rods and .030 mains.
Whats your thoughts on what happined??? Motor made no indication of a problem. No knocks and good oil psi??? This has me a lil pissed with the money and time invested. Not to mention burning my truck!
Ill try and get some pics later of the damage.
Seriously man, that's a bummer! Sounds like it was assembled right, so maybe a defective part (poor metallurgy, etc.).
Rings were gapped .28 top and .30 second
93 pump gas
AFR was around 10-10.5 at 16psi
12* timing
Br7ef plugs. Gapped around .28
I was still working on the tune up and was tryin to play it safe. I know the timing was safe, and the afr was a lil fat. I was workin on leaning it out etc.
Ive built alot of ls based setups over the years. Alot of them are sbe nitrous setups. This was my first time actually tryin to use good parts since im boosted. Ive bent rods with the sbe setups before under boost. So i wanted this motor right! Guess tht didnt happin! Motor had 3-400 miles on it. With the second oil change using rotella 10-40
Its very possible. The broken rod looks like a limp noodle twisted all to hell. Rod cap come off and both rod bolts were in bottom of pan. The rod showed alot of heat on the big end! It definately spun looking at the bearings etc.
Block was hot tanked, honed, new cam bearings, line honed for arp main studs etc. I didnt cut no corners! Shitty luck!
93 pump gas
AFR was around 10-10.5 at 16psi
12* timing
Br7ef plugs. Gapped around .28
I was still working on the tune up and was tryin to play it safe. I know the timing was safe, and the afr was a lil fat. I was workin on leaning it out etc.
Ive built alot of ls based setups over the years. Alot of them are sbe nitrous setups. This was my first time actually tryin to use good parts since im boosted. Ive bent rods with the sbe setups before under boost. So i wanted this motor right! Guess tht didnt happin! Motor had 3-400 miles on it. With the second oil change using rotella 10-40
I have a ls1 bare block tht i could rebuild into something, but having the money i already spent down the drain has me worried! Wonder if i should just throw a sbe gen4 6.0 back in it. Turbo stuff is just hard on parts etc.
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I have a ls1 bare block tht i could rebuild into something, but having the money i already spent down the drain has me worried! Wonder if i should just throw a sbe gen4 6.0 back in it. Turbo stuff is just hard on parts etc.
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If I hit boost and see it dip into the tens I lift and get it right before I push it any further.
What condition are the bolts in?
Broken? Bent?
What condition are the threads in?
What do the rod side threads look like?
10.0 isn't just a lil rich.
I will be happy when the internet tuners will finally realize that. Nitrous guys say the same thing.
OP i'm not bashing you at all, please don't take it that way. What aggravates me is people unknowingly following bad advice by "run it rich, its safe" thinking they are doing the right thing, then blowing their **** up loosing thousands of dollars.
I hate to hear this happened. I'm glad you were able to put the fire out.
OP,
Running it rich do get the tune dialed in is not the way to do it. Pull a **** ton of timing out(withing reason, you can go to low)and work on your fueling slowly. Don't start out going WOT to redline. With a turbo it's actually a little easier because you can either change springs or if you are using a boost controller it's even easier.
You will start to see a trend in fueling. What I mean is for every lb of boost your fueling is going to increase a certain percentage. After you figure that out you can safely build a fuel map into boost levels you haven't reached yet. So when you do get to that boost level your fueling is going to be close, yes you will have to fine tune it but it should be in the ball park.
After you map out all the fueling for your max boost level, THEN start adding timing.
Just my .02
If I hit boost and see it dip into the tens I lift and get it right before I push it any further.
I don't know what size turbo the OP has so 16 psi could be all over the map power wise but I bet the pistons/ringlands are fine. Rod bearing sounds like the culprit, which sucks but have seen it when they are put together a little too tight. What were tolerances on the bearings?
I don't know what size turbo the OP has so 16 psi could be all over the map power wise but I bet the pistons/ringlands are fine. Rod bearing sounds like the culprit, which sucks but have seen it when they are put together a little too tight. What were tolerances on the bearings?
Like i said all other bearings lookes ok. Im guessing bearings picked up some trash some where etc.
Clearancea were .025 rods. .030 mains. Turbo is a t6 billet s480 96 1.32ar. Power does some in hard!!!











