To deck or not to deck?
PTV is pretty straight forward, depends on cam duration and event timing as much as it does valve lift.
For the quench, things grow and stretch with engine speed and temperature. Things like piston speed, rod material and design, piston material, rpm, rod bolt strength, etc. all come into play. On a <400hp stock LS bottom end engine, that's not going to see more than 6000rpm, .038" as is usually safe. Start going up from there you need to check everything twice, use better components, and ensure everything on the block and head are square. With tolerances, not every piston/rod/crankshaft combo will stack up exactly the same when you're talking thousandths of an inch.
Do you really need to take off .020" just to clean it up? Seems like a lot.
If you don't have those things, you can order them to get what you want... 9.240" or less. My rotating assembly was designed for 9.235", and I decked the block to 9.235" for a "Zero deck." I'll still measure upon assembly to see if any additional decking is needed. But it'll probably be fine one way or the other and the gasket thickness can make up for anything .005" the wrong way.
If you need to square your deck height or machine it for a better gasket seal, then those are things worth doing, and you won't have to take off much.
When it was stock they were +.007”
So yes, you need the parts in hand as a reference.
You only need to remove enough to get the deck square with the main line, and the same both sides. Would be way less than .020”
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When you go to aftermarket internals, you may end up needing to cut .020' or more depending on the stroke, rod length, piston compression height, and head gasket thickness. You or your machine shop will be able to determine how much need to come off to get the ideal quench.
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