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Old Mar 20, 2020 | 02:30 PM
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Default Aftermarket Lifter Trays

I just bought some aftermarket lifter trays , they seem to be a much thicker gauge in all areas as compared to the oem GM ones as I remember. Does anyone have any experience with these ?
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Old Mar 20, 2020 | 07:06 PM
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not GM...dont use them is my advice
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Old Mar 20, 2020 | 07:46 PM
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Use only genuine GM lifter trays. The trays hold your roller lifters in place.
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Old Mar 21, 2020 | 05:34 PM
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I was able to do a visual compassion today . Took a look at some old GM trays there is not as much difference as I first suspected .The only difference that the GM trays had is they do have more web bracing in the bucket areas .
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Old Mar 21, 2020 | 05:52 PM
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This can be difficult Id almost bet that GM trays were made of the correct material possibly high impact plastic and most else is just a lucky dip. I noticed mine had a very slight swirl pattern in the plastic and were said to be made in USA.
i hate the idea of putting any plastic in my engine.
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Old Mar 21, 2020 | 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by omc8
I just bought some aftermarket lifter trays , they seem to be a much thicker gauge in all areas as compared to the oem GM ones as I remember. Does anyone have any experience with these ?
Ebay? Yea, I have experience with those, they claim to be GM and show a picture of one with the GM part number. Contact the seller and tell them there is no GM part number, no GM package. They don't even want them back they give you a refund. Then you go pay $2 more for real GM parts in GM packages with GM part numbers.


And just for a FWIW I posted on here about that back then and I was the dumbest mf'er on the planet that day because "they only hold the lifter for assembly, valve spring pressure holds the roller straight with the cam so any tray will be fine, why make such a big deal about it" that seemed to be the general consensus of just about everyone who replied. Sure is strange how things change.
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Old Mar 21, 2020 | 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Jays_SSZ28
Ebay? Yea, I have experience with those, they claim to be GM and show a picture of one with the GM part number. Contact the seller and tell them there is no GM part number, no GM package. They don't even want them back they give you a refund. Then you go pay $2 more for real GM parts in GM packages with GM part numbers.


And just for a FWIW I posted on here about that back then and I was the dumbest mf'er on the planet that day because "they only hold the lifter for assembly, valve spring pressure holds the roller straight with the cam so any tray will be fine, why make such a big deal about it" that seemed to be the general consensus of just about everyone who replied. Sure is strange how things change.
I remember that thread. Those replies to you were ridiculous. The trays have two functions in that they hold the lifters up during install and they keep the lifters from spinning in their bores. The lifter rollers will not remain parallel to the cam lobe by them selves, no matter how much valve springs pressure is applied. If they did remain parallel, we wouldn’t need link bars, or keyed lifters, or wheel guided lifters, etc. So many threads on here you just have to shake your head at and keep moving at some of the replies.
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Old Mar 22, 2020 | 01:00 AM
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I actually had a set of the Ebay China ones. they looked fine but they wouldnt even hold my lifters, they would just fall right out. Went straight in the trash can.
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Old Mar 22, 2020 | 05:09 AM
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Holdener did a video not that long ago on the root cause of his engine failure. It was worn lifter trays as I recall.

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Old Mar 22, 2020 | 05:24 AM
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Have you considered going with link bar lifters? I had a brand new set of lifters and GM trays for my new H/C build, I ended up getting Morel link bar lifters at the last minute.
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Old Mar 22, 2020 | 06:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Che70velle
I remember that thread. Those replies to you were ridiculous. The trays have two functions in that they hold the lifters up during install and they keep the lifters from spinning in their bores. The lifter rollers will not remain parallel to the cam lobe by them selves, no matter how much valve springs pressure is applied. If they did remain parallel, we wouldn’t need link bars, or keyed lifters, or wheel guided lifters, etc. So many threads on here you just have to shake your head at and keep moving at some of the replies.
Thanks. I hate it when people do it but I now have a new quote/signature.
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Old Mar 22, 2020 | 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by TimsLS1
This can be difficult Id almost bet that GM trays were made of the correct material possibly high impact plastic and most else is just a lucky dip. I noticed mine had a very slight swirl pattern in the plastic and were said to be made in USA.
i hate the idea of putting any plastic in my engine.
Yes my guess is that they are made of Nylon 6 or nylon 66 .
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Old Mar 22, 2020 | 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Jays_SSZ28
Ebay? Yea, I have experience with those, they claim to be GM and show a picture of one with the GM part number. Contact the seller and tell them there is no GM part number, no GM package. They don't even want them back they give you a refund. Then you go pay $2 more for real GM parts in GM packages with GM part numbers.


And just for a FWIW I posted on here about that back then and I was the dumbest mf'er on the planet that day because "they only hold the lifter for assembly, valve spring pressure holds the roller straight with the cam so any tray will be fine, why make such a big deal about it" that seemed to be the general consensus of just about everyone who replied. Sure is strange how things change.
Thanks for your post , do you have a link to that thread or title ,

Last edited by omc8; Mar 22, 2020 at 10:09 AM.
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Old Mar 22, 2020 | 09:57 AM
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Honestly I'm with Grifter. If you can afford it, get some link bar lifters. Much more reliable than plastic (even GM parts fail) and better lifters to boot.
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Old Mar 22, 2020 | 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by omc8
Thanks for your post , do have a link to that thread or title ,
I started the thread so I deleted it. There's no use in having a thread full of wrong information on this site. But then again it would be useful to know who was talking all of this BS. That's all it would be good for is seeing who doesn't know what the hell they're talking about. It wasn't just suggestions either, it was explanations of how much it didn't matter.
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Old Mar 22, 2020 | 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by omc8
Thanks for your post , do you have a link to that thread or title ,
That thread was deleted by jays_SSZ28 unfortunately. I wish it was still up. It’s hilarious.
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Old Mar 22, 2020 | 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Jays_SSZ28
Thanks. I hate it when people do it but I now have a new quote/signature.
You should have used one of those replies to you from that lifter tray thread if you wanted a funny sig. Now those were funny.
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Old Mar 22, 2020 | 10:51 AM
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Didn't even know there were cheaper ones than the GM pieces. Those are pretty cheap in the first place.
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Old Mar 22, 2020 | 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by HappySalesman
Honestly I'm with Grifter. If you can afford it, get some link bar lifters. Much more reliable than plastic (even GM parts fail) and better lifters to boot.
I spent nearly four times as much on Morel's than I did on a set of LS7 lifters and GM trays but I feel like it was money well spent. My tuner said I could run the LS7's but he recommended the Morel's. Keep in my mind the car has been H/C since the early 2000's and has been running GM lifters all this time and never had any issues. With the more aggressive H/C on it now I felt like I should upgrade the lifters to aftermarket units. Considering the lifters aren't easily accessed and could cause catastrophic damage if they fail/spin in the tray it seemed like a wise investment.
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Old Mar 22, 2020 | 06:51 PM
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Arent link bars noisy ???

Quote:
Yes my guess is that they are made of Nylon 6 or nylon 66 .

Does anyone know what the correct trays are actually made of ??? It would be nice to know!


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