FCar2000TA

iTrader: (7)

What is the benefit of the Callies 8-Counterweight crankshaft over K1 or Summit that do not have counterweights?

Does it still require the rotating assembly to be balanced?
Does it end up more precisely balanced?

DietCoke

iTrader: (18)

They are stronger, and harmonically better / balance better, especially at extreme rpm.

They don't, however, fit oem blocks, because the center counterweights wont clear. Significant machine work or an aftermarket block is needed.

KCS

iTrader: (20)

Without the counterweights, the crank can flex a lot at higher RPM and at higher power levels. The #2 and #4 main bearings start to show excessive wear and the thrust faces on #3 will too. If you’re not turning more than 7500RPM or making more than 1000whp on a 4” crank, it’s probably not going to be a problem.

You still have to have the crank balanced as you normally would. The center counterweights don’t exactly make the crank more precisely balanced, it more or less just counter balances a part of the crank that didn’t need to be for the power levels they were originally designed for.

FCar2000TA

iTrader: (7)

Thanks for the inputs. That eliminates the 8 counterweight crank for me.

sccagt1racer

I just installed one in a ls 7. It wasn't a big deal to get it into the block. a little die grinder clearance on the center main journal was all it took. Its a better crank.

stockA4

KCS, I've read a lot of your threads over the years and enjoy following your builds, anyways don't read my build thread lol, but anyways how much counterweight difference on average would you find between a stock 5.3 crank vs. a stock 6.0 or 6.2 crank in your measurements if you don't mind sharing?

KCS

iTrader: (20)

Hey thanks. I did read through your 6.2L build thread, it was really well done

I wish I could give you an answer, but I never really kept track of that when balancing cranks. It's kind of difficult anyways since the bobweights can vary so much. I think to do it right, you would need to record the target bobweight, how far off the crank is on the front and rear, and then obviously what crank it came out of. I have a stock stroke LS2 and an LC9 I'm building, so when I get the cranks balanced for those builds, I'll keep track of those and post up the results.

RonSSNova

iTrader: (3)

So what’s this Callie’s CCW crank cost? Not that I’m ready to replace my Molnar.

Was mentioned with a little work they go into an LS7 block. I’ve never seen an LS7 block. What about the other blocks?

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

It's about $250 more than the standard Compstar.

I almost went that way but found a good deal on a K1 setup...

Any of the stock blocks require some work. The Compstar actually needs less but still is not a straight drop in IIRC.

RonSSNova

iTrader: (3)

Thanks. Sadly wasn’t available 3 years ago when I bought the Molnar crank.

stockA4

Thanks KCS I appreciate that, I think it would be nice to see what kind of balance difference there is (if any) for the heavier rods (press fit vs. floating), or really just how well the stock assemblies are balanced to begin with for comparison. When we add compression, cam overlap, increase port velocity, and add larger pistons NVH increases anyways though so a poorly balanced bottom end (or one made of good used stock parts that's not balanced at all lol) is likely run ok for a street build Imo

Razor

You can get a Dart CCW billet crank for around $1400. Guys have machined the center weights slightly to allownit to fit in LS factory blocks.

I was under.the impression the Callies CCW crank fits with zero mods to block or crank into factory GM?