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Cracked LS1 where bellhousing mounts

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Old 04-16-2020, 08:00 PM
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Default Cracked LS1 where bellhousing mounts

Hi everyone so today when I was attaching the trans to the engine I had a little (big) problem. As I was finishing tightening the bolts the block cracked pretty badly on both sides. I will attach pictures. The cracks don’t appear to go into any oil or coolent passages except on the driver side of the block where there is a little (I’m assuming oil) plug. The crack goes along the top of it and inside it goes about an inch up. Although they are big cracks do you guys think a good welder would be able to repair them?

Here is the drain plug I talked about. This crack is very small but on the inside it goes up about an inch. The crack on the outside however confines all the way up the corner into the flat surface on the right.

Sensor removed luckily the crack does not continue inside.

Cracks go down into rear main area but not all the way inside.


Crack here is on where one of the headstuds threads in.


Thanks let me know if you think it’s saveable!
Old 04-16-2020, 10:05 PM
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That's a nice boat anchor. I wouldn't use it in a car I wanted to keep.
Old 04-17-2020, 08:38 AM
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Something REALLY BAD must have happened there. I don't think I've ever seen anything quite like that.

Any idea why it did that?
Old 04-17-2020, 08:46 AM
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I’d scrap it if it were mine. I would have to think oil pan misalignment here, or a badly, badly warped bellhousing?
Old 04-17-2020, 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by RB04Av
Something REALLY BAD must have happened there. I don't think I've ever seen anything quite like that.

Any idea why it did that?
We were putting the trans on and there was around 1/4” left to go so we decided to use the bolts to pull it on. My buddy said he’d done it like that before and then CRACK.
Old 04-17-2020, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Che70velle
I’d scrap it if it were mine. I would have to think oil pan misalignment here, or a badly, badly warped bellhousing?
i don’t think so the rear main pulled off easily so I don’t think the pan is bad. And the bellhousing is brand new.
Old 04-17-2020, 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Drew Carlson
We were putting the trans on and there was around 1/4” left to go so we decided to use the bolts to pull it on. My buddy said he’d done it like that before and then CRACK.
Definitely not the best approach. Sometimes there are reasons why someone may struggle to get the transmission in and forcing it isn't the best plan. However, when I was younger I did do this a few times. I just made sure that I was tightening the bolts little by little and not just one all the way because the stress would have potentially caused damage. I also made sure the shaft was aligned and that the alignment pins were heading in the right direction.
Old 04-17-2020, 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by rising_4rm_ashes
Definitely not the best approach. Sometimes there are reasons why someone may struggle to get the transmission in and forcing it isn't the best plan. However, when I was younger I did do this a few times. I just made sure that I was tightening the bolts little by little and not just one all the way because the stress would have potentially caused damage. I also made sure the shaft was aligned and that the alignment pins were heading in the right direction.
we went a quarter turn at a time which is partly why I’m so surprised this happened. We checked before and after clutch alignment and it was still good. But next time I am for sure going to make sure the trans is touching the block before tightening any bolts😭🤦‍♂️
Old 04-17-2020, 09:04 AM
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I guess does anyone somewhat local to the NOVA area have a ls1 block for sale? This engine has literly zero miles on it and is freshly rebuilt so I’ll just swap rotating assembly’s.
Old 04-17-2020, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Drew Carlson
i don’t think so the rear main pulled off easily so I don’t think the pan is bad. And the bellhousing is brand new.
Looks like a new oil pan in one picture. Did you change pans?
Old 04-17-2020, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Che70velle
Looks like a new oil pan in one picture. Did you change pans?
yes it is a sikky E36 ls swap pan
Old 04-17-2020, 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Drew Carlson
yes it is a sikky E36 ls swap pan
Gotcha. Oil pan misalignment is common. Block has to be aligned to block/bellhousing register with straightedge. If not aligned, binding will occur.
Old 04-18-2020, 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Che70velle
Gotcha. Oil pan misalignment is common. Block has to be aligned to block/bellhousing register with straightedge. If not aligned, binding will occur.
well did just check the block alignment. Seems like the front and rear covers were about 1/8” below the side of the block. I don’t think that explains what happened but defiantly noted for next time. I plan to rebuild it myself once I get a block so I can be sure everything is perfect.
Old 04-20-2020, 08:27 AM
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Thumbs down Your buddy is

Originally Posted by Drew Carlson
We were putting the trans on and there was around 1/4” left to go so we decided to use the bolts to pull it on. My buddy said he’d done it like that before and then CRACK.
an idiot, to recommend that stunt. You forced the trans onto the locators, w/ the trans out of square w/ the block. The oil pan screw up didn't help.
When you get a new block, ask your buddy to stay home...
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Old 04-20-2020, 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Old Geezer
an idiot, to recommend that stunt. You forced the trans onto the locators, w/ the trans out of square w/ the block. The oil pan screw up didn't help.
When you get your buddy to buy you a new block, ask your buddy to stay home...
There...fixed it for you.
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