Kaliph503

okay guys, I've got a bust valve spring on cylinder 8. Its the second to farthest valve under the firewall. Can I fit the tool I need to use to get that valve spring compressed down and put the keeper in..
so far I've got a quick idea on how to do this.
remove cylinder, install pressure test air line. Put cylinder at TDC compress with air. (So valve doest fall in) then remover keeper.

Whats the name of the tool i need to use to compress the valve spring
1998 ws6 ls1

MplSS

It's just called an Ls in car valve spring compression tool. There are many designs available by as many manufacturers, they can all be used with the head in the car. Several vendors here sell them. The air compressor method is the best one but it can also be done by inserting a length of rope into the cylinder with the piston close to tdc, and then inching the piston up until it stops. Just be careful if you've never done it before, you don't want a valve dropping, or a lock falling down the oil passage.

BigBlackCamaro

You might want to change all of the springs. They break with higher mileage.
Probably should check to be sure the valve isn't bent for the one that broke.

01CamaroSSTx

iTrader: (3)

Yeah finding a broken valve spring would lead me to believe there's more than likely others that have become weak over time. I've never changed springs with the engine together and in the 4th Gen but I have changed out plugs and swapped rockers before and that passenger side is a PITA with the AC intact. Getting the piston up to TDC is easy, its when you push air into the cylinder and the piston pushes to the bottom is what concerns me about using air. I'm eventually going to be faced with the issue sooner than later unfortunately. Gotta pay too play!

RB04Av

Don't use air. That method SUCKS. Use rope instead. It's all but infallible.

BigBlackCamaro

I'd use air. It'll hold the valve up and check to see if it's bent or leaking for some other reason.

If you think working on that side sucks you're really going to hate trying to stuff a piece of rope in a hole you can't see.

I guess it makes sense if you don't own an air compressor and you're trying to use a tire pump.

Thats just me. I'm never going to use rope. No need to reply to this comment, it's not going to change a thing.

01CamaroSSTx

iTrader: (3)

It's bad enough to install a plug into No. 8 and I can only imagine how frustrating it would be to stuff rope down into the cylinder. Do you put something on the crank to keep it from moving when applying the air or is it just a certain amount of air pressure needed to keep the valves up or does it even matter if the piston drops because you have enough air pressure to keep the valves up?

BigBlackCamaro

I use an 80 gallon air compressor and it's set to 135 psi off, 80 psi on. The piston goes to BTC when the air hose is attached.
So between 80 psi and up it has no problem holding the valves up. You can have 80 psi in the cylinder with your bare hand there is no way in hell you can push the valve open.

I can see if you're not paying attention and tighten the compressor down when it's not aligned and it hits a valve tip and opens it that might be a problem. But IMO if you can't concentrate on what you're doing maybe you shouldn't be doing it.
I've done it this way my whole life, never had a problem.

Even back in the Gen 1 days I've done a few with the piston at TDC, nothing in the cylinder, no air, no rope, new valve seals tight enough to hold the valves up. Just center the depressor and depress the spring and put the locks in, press the valve down. Release the depressor.

RB04Av

Rope is EEEEEZY. You don't have to "see" ANYTHING.

The problem with the air is, it tends to push the piston down; and if that happens, and THEN you unseat the valve by whatever means, you may be hosed.

Use rope. It's EEEEEZY and as near infallible as anything can possibly be.

SLP IROC-Z

iTrader: (14)

i had no issues doing mine before using compressed air and a comp spring compressor tool.

01CamaroSSTx

iTrader: (3)

If you've ever built an LSX engine you'll find that those little ARP nuts for the studs that screw into the cylinder heads and protrude into the block and made accessible through the lifter windows are somewhat difficult to get on and torque to spec's. It's not something I'd like to tackle with the engine in the car but I'm certain it can be done so dropping a valve would be the last thing I'd want to have happen while trying to swap out springs.

Ls7colorado

iTrader: (3)

compressed air here my whole life, piston goes to BDC air fills cylinder. Like mentioned already.... there is no way your gonna open the valve with that much pressure in the cylinder.