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This is a new 5.3 build. Thermastat is opening lower hose upper hose is hot. Same with radiator
it seems to stay at 230. Which is way to hot
I have heater hoses looped And coolant bypass look at video.
Any thoughts? Air pockets because of water pump to high?
Yes I have single fan. I do have a truck pump sits pretty high. Compared to radiator I'll pick the front up about 3ft tommaro see if it helps get it movin .
Remove the radiator hose going into the top of the water pump and use that as your fill point. I have had to do that on most LS engine swapped vehicles that dont have a factory style coolant reservoir to get the air out.
Yes, fill the engine by pouring into the top radiator hose. What are you doing with the steam vent line? It should be dumping into the radiator somehow and this line also helps to purge air pockets out of the coolant system.
Remove the top radiator hose at the water pump again and check to see if coolant comes out, if not fill it back up again through the top of the water pump.
Remove the top radiator hose at the water pump again and check to see if coolant comes out, if not fill it back up again through the top of the water pump.
Yes rechecked like u said. Water came out. So looks like circulating.
So I replace sending unit bought temp gun same reading 230 plus. It does have a new water pump.
my timing is 20 degrees.
I am currently got car front 3 ft in air. To try and get rid of air
Undo that. What that does is allow hot water to bypass the radiator altogether and circulate right back into the block. Cap off or plug them instead.
Might also want to consider adding a recovery bottle, such as the 2-port one that it came with when it was in a truck. Plumb it with the steam vent going to one of its ports and the other going to the water pump. I.e. essentially break that little short piece of line you have there and put the bottle there. That'll take care of the air problem as well, if you mount it up high, like it was in the truck.
Undo that. What that does is allow hot water to bypass the radiator altogether and circulate right back into the block.
I’ve had mine like this for a long time and never an overheating problem, I don’t even turn my fan on.
If you still have a lot of air in the system after filling from the water pump maybe you have a headgasket leaking pushing combustion pressure into the cooling system?? I know you said you have flow but maybe it’s restricted, Have you swapped thermostats?
Doesn't matter if "it works" for one situation or not. It's not right. Cheeeeeeeeep and eeeeeeeeeeezy to make it better.
Undo the "looped" heater circuit. It allows hot water to pass directly from the top of the engine right back into the "cooled" side. Kinda the same effect as, if your radiator was just a piece of hose.
Doesn't matter if "it works" for one situation or not. It's not right. Cheeeeeeeeep and eeeeeeeeeeezy to make it better.
Undo the "looped" heater circuit. It allows hot water to pass directly from the top of the engine right back into the "cooled" side. Kinda the same effect as, if your radiator was just a piece of hose.
Don't block it,, put in a restricter, the factory system runs coolant 100% of the time, temps in the car are managed by dampers not coolant flow. A piece of round aluminum stock in in the hose that has a 1/4 inch hole in it (give or take) will allow the bypass flow that the system needs to really regulate correctly, the heat flow keeps water moving through the system if the thermostat is still all the way shut. By letting the water move your gauges and sensors get better readings, and it allows some flow past the thermostat to keep it getting the real water temps.
I have "fixed" many many race cars with cooling problems with this setup. Not limited to GM at all. Mopars were some of the last cars that fully shut off water flow in the heater system most others went with a diverting valve that looped through a smaller pipe, then migrated to the full flow system with a damper.
One other way to do it and have it look cool is a pair of AN fittings threaded in to the heater ports, with a short piece of AN line, a couple fittings including one with a reducer section.. Did it once cause its was what I had in the race trailer and it turned out to work pretty well.
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05-29-2020, 09:16 PM
5.3 getting hot. On 68 degree day 
