br549

Hows it going everyone? Well a bad tank of gas caused a broken rod in my stock 5.7 and will be heading to the machine shop as soon as I can get it to them. I would like to stay as close to stock as possible since it's my primary vehicle. I was kinda wondering if there is a "1 step above stock" type cam that would work with a stock 4L60E torque converter and PCM without any issue's. I would like to do a little increase in power, especially while someone who knows what their doing is assembling it, but I don't want to sacrifice the turn key, drive anywhere, reliability that it had from the day I bought it till about 2 months ago. Thanks in advance.

ramairjohn2000

iTrader: (3)

Texas speed 228r is what I’m looking at for those same reasons

SLP IROC-Z

iTrader: (14)

Ls6 top end

stockA4

If you don't want to touch the PCM then you have to think outside the box a little bit. You would need to maximize your effective displacement but the factory tune can only stretch so far. Even a little 212/218 115lsa cam would set a misfire code at idle and want to be spun past the stock rev limiter for the best performance. Your best bet would be to have the stock heads milled for at least 11.2 to 1 static compression, use a 98-00 f-body Cam, ls6 springs and some nice higher ratio rocker arms 1.8 or 1.85 who knows, really some super nice aftermarket ported heads with tiny Chambers and the stock cam would be best for what you want, box of octane boost in the trunk lol but you are trying to cheat without tuning, if you want more power you want more Air and fuel, modifying the engine to ingest more air and fuel without telling the PCM that you've done so just isn't really a good idea, do you see what I'm saying? I could ramble about this all day you can make a shitload of power with a smooth idle you just need more air and fuel but you're going to do it wrong and it's going to be a disappointing mess if you don't tune it, a completely stock car with a really good tune would still be better than what you're trying to do or what I brainstormed above, if you can afford hptuners and a wideband there are good people on here that can even help you remotely.

SoCalDave

Yup an LS6 top end would work. Another thing you can do is have your heads ported and use thinner head gaskets.

BKsNHRA

iTrader: (4)

Possibly a good application for a old lingenfelter GT2-3 cam

RevGTO

iTrader: (12)

That's a good suggestion as would be the older Comp grinds in the 212-220 range with lifts around .525 or so. Cams of this sort will work well with LS6 yellow springs, which will give you the reliability and longevity you're looking for.

stockA4

I forgot to add that any performance camshaft, Even a very small one with an IVC (intake valve closing point) much more than a few degrees later than stock is going to perform noticeably worse at lower RPMs in a stock vehicle with the stock converter and the stock tuning. The valve events cannot be cheated, especially IVC
The GT 2-3 is an awesome little cam with a smooth idle, but if I put it in my ride I'd have to have the rev limiter at at least 6800-7000

G Atsma

IVC is the first thing I look at when looking at mild cams where strong tip-in is desired

99 Black Bird T/A

iTrader: (4)

With the engine apart, I'd probably try to shoot for a decent s LS6 style top end with a GT2-3 cam (or similar small cam) plus a tune if it were my car with those goals with?the motor apart. Increase compression definitely as the others mentioned.

Typically a stock A4 LS1 fbody can pick up ~ 45 wheel horse power pretty easy keeping the stock cam with an LS6 intake long tube headers, a good Y pipe & cat back and other basic bolt ons plus a tune. I think the basic bolt on route plus tune would come closer giving you the goal desired. I basically went that route with my 02 Z28 and am happy with the outcome.

All of the above helps optimize any after market cam.

G Atsma

With an IVC of 42 and a 118.5 LSA, that cam will be fairly soggy on the bottom end.
Lingenfelter's grinds are long in the tooth. There are better ones with more flexibility

BKsNHRA

iTrader: (4)

only recommended it because he wants to stay as close to stock as possible. A LS6 cam or the gt2-3 seemed like the closest he could get and would not need a converter. Would need to bump the rev limiter up and get some decent beehive springs. These would be the most stock sounding cams if that’s what he’s after. If he can deal with a little exhaust note then go bigger. A good tuner can tame a lot of cam chop if the exhaust isn’t to loud.

G Atsma

Understood, and good points. I think if he were to call Cam Motion and give the full rundown on what he has and needs, they might come up with a grind that will satisfy those needs with a strong full range powerband. It can't hurt to call and see.

br549

Hey everybody thanks for all the replies! After reading through them, I think I might better stick with stock because of my "skill level" in this field! It's my primary vehicle, well it was up until about 2.5 months ago when it shut off on me going down the road, I melted the barrel off of my parts cannon only to find out it was bad gas! by that point I guess I hydro locked it. I put fresh gas in it and it's got a dead miss to it and you can hear something metal bouncing around in it. I've got it ready to pull and deliver to the machine shop. One of the spark plugs had a zero gap when I pulled them. Here's a picture of the plug, It was wet when I pulled it.