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Hello, I just used a degree wheel to dial in a new cam shaft.
Using the Cam Card from Cam motion and a new Cloyes 9-3158A Hex-A-Just true roller timing set. I double checked every thing and for it to come out to the cam specs I had to put the hex nut into the retard zone. It should of been centered, but there is much slop with the hex bushing.
The oval holes for the three cam bolts ended up with more clearance on the retarded side. I suppose I could put the stock cam gear on and see where that comes out to.
But I have it all locked tighten in so-- what do you think?
I am ready for any and all mentally challenged comments.
But has any one else ran into this when using the Hex-A -Just?????
By the way, I drilled and tapped a chain tension-er. I used a grade 8,1/4" size bolt on one side because the casting was thin at the top and I used a blind hole. I put a bushing around the smaller bolt to make it snug. It is a LM7 2002 5.3 block.
Your chain will "stretch" acoupla degrees within the first few minutes of running it. When it does, your cam will be retarded from wherever you thought you left it.
"Perfect", in such matters, is kinda subjective. There will ALWAYS be errors.
In light of its known future and destiny, which direction would you prefer to err towards? I know FOR SURE that when I build a motor, it isn't to retard the cam from wherever I think I want it, or even, to install it "perfectly". Because it ISN'T gonna stay there. And I KNOW which way it's gonna go. Therefore I INTRODUCE my own "error", knowing that the new "error" that the parts themselves introduce, will approximately cancel it out. My "guess" for a high-quality chain is 1.5 - 2°. Wherever I "think" the cam should be, I install it about 2°, or a little less, advanced from there, knowing that in xxx miles, it'll settle down right about where I want it.
Not sure what you're asking about "problem" in this context. Looks to me like everything is doing pretty much what it's supposed to do.
I like that type of tensioner... it's not really a "tensioner" as such, more, a stabilizer. Keeps the chain from whipping around as it comes off of the crank sprocket with no tension, on the pass side.
Thanks for the information. RBO4Av Does that stand for R e B uilt / 4 degrees A dvance?
Looks like I will do a test with the stock gear, then put the new gear back on with some additional advance.
The 2002's did not come with a tensioner but I thought it would help.
Thanks
Thanks for the information. RBO4Av Does that stand for R e B uilt / 4 degrees A dvance?
Looks like I will do a test with the stock gear, then put the new gear back on with some additional advance.
The 2002's did not come with a tensioner but I thought it would help.
Thanks
I would be very interested In seeing how this compares to the Oem sprocket. Would be great data to have. Totally agree with RB. You don’t want to retard this as the chain stretch will typically do that for you a tad.
I have the same Cloyes hex adjust and when I degreed my cam it was similar to yours but only like .5 degree of retard. However, the cam is degreed perfectly now. I checked over and over and over...
Dumb question, but you did make sure the three cam bolts were tightened before the degree in? I used arp cam bolts and torqued to spec before degree in.
I have the same Cloyes hex adjust and when I degreed my cam it was similar to yours but only like .5 degree of retard. However, the cam is degreed perfectly now. I checked over and over and over...
Dumb question, but you did make sure the three cam bolts were tightened before the degree in? I used arp cam bolts and torqued to spec before degree in.
Hello, Yes I tightened the cam bolts.
I checked the degree with the OE cam gear and came out with Intake open at 4 ATDC.
Put the Cloyes back in and centered the adjustment and came out the same--- 4 ADTC.
Cam spec is 5.26 ADTC so I called it good enough and tightened it up.
I am a little wary of the cam slipping under the bolt heads, so I packed the load side of one bolt hole so it can't go far.
Also I jammed the once loose hex bushing tight into the cam.
Thanks
When you put the Cloyes back in was it still retarded?
Hello,
No it was centered in the + or - zone.
I did not mention that I also checked it with the old gear and chain and also came up with 4 degrees. I keep the oil clean, Mobile 1 when it starts to turn dark I change it whether it has 1000 miles or 3500 which is about the longest interval that I have used. Also, for 83000 miles, I have run the stock, Z6, and now Pac 1215 valve springs that are "light" so the timing chain stretch has not been an problem.
So the Cloyes installation was not retarded, but I may be. I just had to say that!!
I'm not exactly sure what you're asking, but if you ran a degree wheel on it adjust the hex adjust until it's degreed in properly, doesn't really matter what you had to do retarding or advancing wise to get it there as long as it lines up with the specs using the degree wheel.
And just to throw it out there, that's a chain dampener, not a tensioner.
I'm not exactly sure what you're asking, but if you ran a degree wheel on it adjust the hex adjust until it's degreed in properly, doesn't really matter what you had to do retarding or advancing wise to get it there as long as it lines up with the specs using the degree wheel.
And just to throw it out there, that's a chain dampener, not a tensioner.
Hello, the question was if any one else had used the hex adjust and cam out with having to adjust it off of "center." When I get my pistons back from the machine shop from having the rods heated to fit the "press in" pins, I will check it one more time. I do not think having the rings installed will make any difference in setting the TDC, but we will see.
Yes it is an dampener, old habits die hard. I have replaced many "tensioners" but that was years ago. Worked at a Toyota dealership. Poor oil maintenance made the tensioners loose and noisy. Engines had distributors, points and condensers when I started working there!
Thanks for your comments.
I have the Cloyes set up on both my Nova and Corvette.
Actually, the Nova has the Comp Cams version, it uses an IWIS chain.
As you know, the adjuster is not all that precise. There is some slop back and forth. That said, it does allow you to dead on nail the cam timing.
Ive had no issues with the adjustment staying set.
The chains do loosen a bit. But even after use and abuse they are still tighter than the stock LS2 chain is when new.
Hello, the question was if any one else had used the hex adjust and cam out with having to adjust it off of "center." When I get my pistons back from the machine shop from having the rods heated to fit the "press in" pins, I will check it one more time. I do not think having the rings installed will make any difference in setting the TDC, but we will see.
Yes it is an dampener, old habits die hard. I have replaced many "tensioners" but that was years ago. Worked at a Toyota dealership. Poor oil maintenance made the tensioners loose and noisy. Engines had distributors, points and condensers when I started working there!
Thanks for your comments.
I had to break myself of calling it a tensioner too lol. I'm also a tech so I get it man.
As for you question, I do not have personal experience with that timing set, but it seems to be that everyone is saying they have seen what you saw with yours. And by the design of it, I would expect to see what you're seeing. I don't think it was created with the intention of being insanely precise in the adjuster, just designed to make the cam timing adjustable.
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Cloyes Hex-A-just 
Hope this helps 
