SLP IROC-Z

iTrader: (14)

Thanks for further proving my point

Kfxguy

iTrader: (1)

your welcome.

Kjduvall

The more I read (back) on this I'm kinda agreeing with Darth and 00pooter . That should work for the wife. And get a pair of good cut outs for when your riding solo. Best ove both worlds so to speak.

68Formula

With your setup and goals, I would think a TSP Stage 2 Truck High Lift on a 114LSA should be enough to get the job done.

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

I don't know if I would do a truck cam and a 3200 stall. The stall will get it up and out of the hole and then provide shift extension on the upper end and keep the rev's higher. I'd do a car cam and rev it to 7000

blackram_air

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guys for all the information. I have reached out to Texas Speed via email just waiting for a reply. I will further research the Titan 2 and the 224/228. I do understand you can get several different opinions from everyone but that is what we are all here for. This gives me great information to move past my starting point and is much appreciated. This all started with looking at the Hawksmotorsports 450RHWP package which includes heads/cam and intake. Their cam is the Sinister 230/236 .591"/.601" 112 LSA and requires a 3600 stall minimum, which I felt was just a little too much in my case. Plus I can get an FTI SB3200 for $499 moving to 3600 would double the price. So in researching I realized I didn't need to add an intake as the stock LS6 will be more than enough in this case. The built transmission and stall will be later down the road if possible so my accountant will actually let me upgrade some parts LOL. So that narrowed my search even more and looks like some of the options that have been out there may accomplish an upgrade sooner rather than later.

Kjduvall

Skip the streetbrawler 3200, and go straight to a yank ss3600. Being cheap is expensive.

blackram_air

iTrader: (1)

I do agree with being cheap gets expensive I thought FTI was decent brand. I was trying to avoid adding a stall without a built tranny but I think I will re-think that plan and just add the stall and cooler with the heads. My son and I will borrow his buddy's shop on the weekend and drop the k-member motor and all when I get to the point of actually doing the work. So that will also help with changing the stall out.

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

Full agree, heard of way too many horror stories from cheap stalls, and seen underwhelming performance.

My buddy bought a $400 4000 rpm stall and put in his gutted heads cam car. I used to pull him every time we raced with my full weight bolt on only car with a Yank SS3800. We would launch about the same but once the rpms settled I'd start pulling away because the yank was so much more efficient than his cheapy stall.

I know it's hard to spend $800 on a stall, but that's what it cost for a stall you wont regret buying.

Also, if you don't already have a stall, put a stall in it before you do a cam. You'll be shocked how much faster the car is and may bail on doing a cam at all.

I pulled several cammed cars back in the day with my bolt on stalled car. Mine would have been a lot faster with a cam, but you can do pretty damn good with bolt ons and a stall.

My car ran 7.6's in the 1/8th, full weight, bolt ons and stall only. That was actually with a stereo system in it and heavy wheels too. So it was more than stock full weight.

blackram_air

iTrader: (1)

So YankSS or FTI SRLSL (9.5" street racer)? Are both fine with stock 60e with 41,000 miles (yes I work a lot so only drive it on the weekends)

Tyler Dietzenbach

iTrader: (5)

Yank, PTC, FTI would be my personal top 3 choices. 41K isn't much. You will be replacing the trans fluid and filter when you drop the trans. I recommend dino fluid and NOT synthetic. When you install it, check all of your clearances!! Thats rule #1. Look into a good trans cooler. I run a tube and fin right above the air dam, and a stacked plate mounted "dope style". Absolutely dont skip out on a cooler and your clearances. Then you'll be fine.

Tyler Dietzenbach

iTrader: (5)

I also suggest a stall from 3500-4000 and you won't regret it.

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

Yank, FTI, PTC, Circle D

Get a billet cover stall

I'd recommend a 3600-4000

My stock trans lasted to 189k miles with my 3800 stall. Changed the fluid every 30k and ran the largest cooler I could fit in the front of the car. I built little brackets to mount it to the bottom of the core support in the front instead of strapping it directly to the condenser so that it sat in free air and didn't transfer heat from or to the condenser. I also bypassed the radiator and ran just a trans cooler.

The stacked plate style mentioned above is supposed to be better than the tube and fin, I ran a giant tube and fin and it barely kept trans temps in check, I wasn't very happy with it.

You can also do like mentioned above and run the cooler somewhere other than up in the air damn and put a fan on it.

Tyler Dietzenbach

iTrader: (5)

This. Everything above. Stacked plate is for sure better, the tube and fin I got for free so I just chucked it on too. Wouldn't run 2 stacked plates though as it'll cut flow. I also agree, I suggest not putting it on the condensor. It caused my coolant temps to climb much higher than I liked. Forgot about Circle D. Oops.

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

Btw I daily drove my SS3800, and drove anywhere from 600-1000 miles a week and loved it.

Don't be afraid to go "big", most start with closer to a 3000 and wish they would have gone closer to 4000. I did, my first stall was tight and would stall around 2500 ish. I hated it, it was a dog and hardly any better than stock. Put the 3800 in and it blew my mind how much better it was. And it was an absolute blast to drive.

You'll need drag radials, street tires are just dangerous once you step up to that much stall it'll want to spin around on you anywhere in first or second gear. Had it happen to me while just moving through traffic one day around 35 mph or so, didn't hammer it or anything. Never ran a street tire again (regular street tire).

blackram_air

iTrader: (1)

I spin the tires now all stock. If I punch it I can spin till 3rd gear, my next tires will be Pilot Super Sports the Nitto Invo don't hook at all but do corner well. Thanks for all the info guys, I will look at the Yank SS, FTI SRLS and the Vigilante all seem very similar.

wannafbody

iTrader: (2)

What didn't you like about your BTR stage 2 cam? I think it's very streetable with a 6 speed. A milder cam might work better with an auto.

Summitracing

We'll 3rd the Pro LS Ghost cam for this combo and goals. Specs on it are .600/.575, 222/233, 115+3 with -3* overlap. We call it the Ghost because with the idle speed turned up it will sound similar to stock. With it's -3* of overlap it will have great street manners. While being smooth and stealthy it can carry power out to 7,000 rpm.

Pair it with some Pac 1218 beehives and it will be happy to 7,000 rpm. We have those through Trickflow as TFS-16918-16. If you like added insurance you could go with duals. We offer the Trickflow .660" lift dual spring, retainer, lock, and valve seal kit.

We offer the Ghost cam in various cam and spring or cam, spring, and install kit combos. You can view all of them here.


Above is an idle video of the Ghost cam from Mavn's build thread. This is in an LS1 with headers and stock idle around 500-550 rpm. Turn it up to around 800-900 rpm and it would smooth it out even more.

Kfxguy

iTrader: (1)

this. 100%

Kfxguy

iTrader: (1)

I have an auto. Sudden blips of the throttle at a standstill would cause a stumble, dip or stall. That was at a lower rpm, I had it set to idle at, iirc it was idling at 700. That was what it sounded the best. It would buck with my lockup under 45-50mph. I thought it was just me and my tuning skills so I paid a very experienced tuner to retune it for me. It didnt really get any better. He though maybe the valves in the heads were leaking. Changed the heads. Nope. So I ended up with the ghost cam, I couldnt be happier. Drives like stock.