Jroth142

Just a quick update and shout out to the customer service at Summit, they've been awesome! Reached out regarding a few questions on the 383 assembly (that Im just waiting on backordered rods for) and they've been MORE than helpful!

That said, they've given me some good ideas/feedback regarding a potential cam swap since Im going with the stroker assembly. Had really planned on sticking with the Torquer v2 but, at the same time, a cam swap would be a lot more cost friendly than heads (which I just have to keep for now). I'm sure I could sell the Tv2 pretty easily.
With the forged internals, it may be nice to go with something that would make power spinning it higher but not looking to sacrifice a bunch of low-end either and plan to stick with my stock 3.23s and 3600 stall as long as my 10 bolt lasts!

Summit threw out a couple options and I plan on touching base with my tuner in the coming weeks. Just thought I'd throw it out there for any additonal thoughts/suggestions?! Do want to maintain decent driveability so may end up the Tv2 is still a solid way to go. Just looking at all options right now!

madmike9396

iTrader: (29)

I would stick with that Tv2. if you go with some monster cam it will need to be turning high RPM before it makes any real power and leave your bottom end feeling like a Dog.

Jroth142

Was kinda hoping this would be the feedback...one less thing to worry about!
Pretty settled on doing a FAST/WARR 92 setup and likely u/d pulley while the motors out. Hoping that along with the stoker crank provides a nice little performance bump when it's all said and done! Trans should be super solid once RPM is done with it. Forged internals should at least provide some additonal piece of mind too!

ChopperDoc

Agree with all of the above responses here. I’ll just add, don’t forget to actually spin the crank with the rods and pistons attached to check clearances on the block, like you should do anytime you lengthen the stroke. If clearance is needed, just use a die grinder to notch the areas of concern. You should have a bare minimum of 1/8” around all the spinning parts. I prefer more though, preferably 1/4” or more.

Just remember when things start getting hot, they get bigger. Aluminum expands faster than steel. Do this with the pan too, with windage tray installed before final assembly. Just turn the crank and feel for any resistance. To check actual clearance, just add some tape (a think layer) to the counterweight of most concern, typically the first one, and spin it with the pan on.

At an autocraft center (military), I once saw a dude fire up a 383 SBC and destroy it in a few minutes as it started warming up. He didn’t clearance anything, and that was the result. I’ll be honest, it was sad and funny at the same time. He acted like he was God in there, and was so confident… and I was just doing some wheel bearings or whatever it was. That engine was destroyed pretty quickly.

Jroth142

Hey fellas -

Thought it was worth posting an update for all of those that chimed and and helped out tremendously with comments!

T/A is back up and running stronger than ever! Ended up going the forged stroker (383) route and added a Fast 92/WARR 92 setup along with u/d pulley. Bit the bullet on an RPM stage V after they went through my supposedly “built” trans and determined it was bone stock. I now have a GREAT appreciation for quality/stand-up tuners and thankfully found one on the 3rd try! Haven’t dyno’d the car yet but computer showed it making 530 at the crank after the street tune. May get her up on the dyno just so I have some #s on paper at some point.

Now my biggest question is whether to wait till the stock rear end (3.23s) goes out or do a 3.73 gear swap for a little better response around town. My 3600 FTI stall is super high quality and a great fit with the Tv2 cam but I really wish I had a little better throttle response around town for spirited driving. Not a track car or DD so not sure what to think on the stock rear end lasting. She just hit 30k original miles.

Anyway - thanks again to everyone who weighed in! Don’t hesitate to hit me up for LS tuner recommendations if anyone is looking in the northern Indiana area!

bbond105

The stock rear end on street tires with an auto trans in front of if should be okay. I did break mine at the track with slicks on it though. No trans break ever.

madmike9396

iTrader: (29)

Glad to hear its up and running ! if your not going to visit the track much go ahead and throw some 373s in it. you should be good to go !

BFK86

iTrader: (1)

Damn man, just skimmed through this whole thread, and your unfortunate series of events sounds eerily similar to mine this past year. I had a lifter tick last spring and decided to pull heads and replace lifters, and while i was at it replaced the stock heads with PRC as cast 225s..got it tuned and ran it through last summer...then the rear end pinion bearing started making noise...pulled the whole rear end housing out and put a low mile 3.42 10 bolt in from a friend's camaro...no sooner I got it swapped in I started getting lifter tick again..this time louder than before..so i pull the filter and find a bunch of glitter in the oil and metal bearing material. Spent all last fall and winter pulling the motor, and bought a thompson motorsports 383 short block, put my BTR cam and PRC heads on it, and topped it with a FAST 102...just got it running last month, got a new fuel pump in last week, and off to the tuner this saturday...can't wait till I can just drive and enjoy this thing again..been down since last september.

Here's the startup video..

Jroth142

Oh man, I definitely feel your pain! Best of luck at the tuner’s. I’m in the same boat as far as just wanting to enjoy the car this summer. Has been running great so far so fingers crossed it stays that way!