Start your own thread. Don't hijack this one.

 

I’m new to this I have no idea how it work , never been the one to step on toes

 

Look around a bit. It's not hard.

 

I would have the block sleeved punched out to a 4.110 bore do a 4" crank with flat top pistons and boom you have a 7L ready for anything. Put 317 heads on with full chambers I think they are 77CCs with a. 051 gasket and add a bit of boost. You're still running a 10.8:1 compression but with that amount of cubes and like 5-7 lbs of boost you should easily be at the upper 600hp range with no issues.

 

i would rebuild the 5.7 and sell it, that will help offset the cost of your new short block. 383s never seem to make the power they should imo. thomson motor sports might have a short block in your price range. you might be able to find something locally someone is selling. take your time and the right deal will come along.

 

Ended up getting everything tore down yesterday and finally seeing the damge! Single rod bearing spun and hammered the crank pretty bad. Will definitely need replaced depending on which route I go. Nothing else real noticable, cylinder walls all still looked great with noticable cross hatching. I wasn't sure what to expect but motor does only have 29,000 original miles in it. Pulled the cam out and it looked great.

So now I'll just continue with the research and see how things go. I haven't talked to the local machine shop yet so plan to this week. Those blueprinted Thompson short blocks look great but are probably going to be out of my $ range. I could probably pick up a 6.0 iron block for around $500 and then have the local shop do all the work. At least that way I'd know exactly what parts are going in it. The stroker idea popped up on account if me potentially being able to get some good deals on parts through my dad and then I would know EXACTLY where the block was coming from. For the money though of a full priced kit compared to the gains, it didn't really seem like a great investment.
I plan to take my trans down to RPM and have it gone through so that bill may end up playing a role in which way I go as well. If all else fails, I may just go the route of rebuilding back to previous state. I never did really get a chance to experience the build so maybe I'll be plesently suprised, who knows!

 

If the block is good then I would use it. Find a good stock crank, forged rods/pistons, then take it over to C&P machine shop.

 

Or replace the bad rod, have the crank turned, install new bearings and put it all back together and enjoy.

 

Yep, that's the shop!
Forged components sound like they may not be necessary unless I did end up just going with the stroker kit, that's pretty unlikely though I'd say. Considered maybe a fresh set of rods/pistons but probably not really necessary either with the power I'm making. Wasnt 100% sure how much they could grind the stock crank, would say it'll take a good .020-.030 to clean up. Probably fine??
Now that everythings off, I've also considered the idea of just unloading the head/cam package that are basically brand new and stepping up to a better head since I've got plenty of time. Not sure even a premium head (afr, tfs) and slightly bigger cam would make a huge difference though for the money spent. I want to maintain driveability so I can't imagine going too much bigger on the cam. I'm sure I'd have another $1000-1500 in the new setup on top of what I could get for my existing. For maybe 30-40 hp?? The added torque from the 6.0L is still in the back of my head as well. Too many options I guess!

 

have any pictures of the damage ? i would not sell your current heads because you already have a decent head and you will be losing $ imo. rebuild it with good bearings and ARP hardware and give her hell.

 

 

That doesn't look that bad, but its hard to tell with pics. May get by with a polish or at most turned .010 undersized.

 

I'm not a professional but I'd say 0.010 would clean it up. I'd call and see what they say at the machine shop about all new bearing and rings. cylinders shouldn't need any honing.

 

Ya, it's probably gonna take .020" or so to clean up. It calipered a good .015 step. Definitely looks worse in person!
Talked to the machine shop and probably leaning towards new bearing and rings and checking out the rod that spun. Maybe throw some arp rod bolts at it but at this point thinking that may be the way to go. Nothing fancy, just get her back together!

 

Don't put ARP rod bolts in. It will mess up how they torque down. Can't remember the reasoning behind it, just that it's not a good idea.

 

Oh really?? I hadn't heard that before. Was thinking I had seen the rod bolts in the gen 3's were the potential weak spot of the assembly. I've seen some gen 4 rods posted pretty cheap, considered picking some of those up. Again though, can't imagine it's really necessary unless existing rods are compromised at all. Still not sure whaf caused the spun bearing. Suspected pick-up o ring but everything looked good at disassembly so who knows at this point.

 

For some reason I thought you were considering Forced Induction. Either way the Forged rods/pistons would give you room to grow when you decide that you want more power. It will be ready for a D1 when the funds allow.

 

What's everyone's thoughts on potentially just upgrading to the gen4 rod with perhaps some RPM/WS6Store "HD" pistons vs. going the fully forged route? Much advantage over sticking with stockers or not really? At this point, I really don't see jumping to all forged. FI would be great but would be 5yrs+ down the road assuming I still have the car. Maybe a 150 shot in the near future but even that is probably pretty unlikely. Mostly just interested in reliability at this point!

 

If installing ARP rod bolts the rods may need to be resized. The ARP bolts create more clamping force and may make rod out of round and the bearing clearance too tight.

 

I Ran ARP rod bolts in my last car and running ARP main and rod bolts in my current ride. 0 issues thus far. to my knowledge they don't make a gen 4 rod for a 5.7. I would just rebuild it with Good bearings, add some forged pistons if you wanted to spray it a lot down the road and call it a day.