Ls1 H/C/I install complete....looking for help/feedback
#1
Ls1 H/C/I install complete....looking for help/feedback
Hey All – (sorry about the long post!)
I picked up my car yesterday from my installer/tuner and was disappointed to say the least following my 45min drive home. Here’s a quick rundown of the car prior to the install and then exactly what was installed (apologize for the extensive list, just want to capture everything):
98’ T/A, 29k miles, Ls1, stock a4, 3.23’s, LID, Speed Eng 1-3/4” LT’s, ORY, Hooker catback, FTI 3600 stall, trans cooler & deeper pan, ported stock TB, koni str.t’s, BRM suspension parts: lowering springs, front/rear swaybar, SFC’s, LCA relocation bracket, adj. panhard, adj. torque arm, torque arm relocation bracket, Founders adj. LCA’s
Installed:
Ls6 Intake/gaskets, TSP Tv2 cam, PRC Stage 2.5 Ls6 heads (62cc), .660 dual springs w/ Ti retainers, GM balancer bolt, Ls7 lifters, hardened pushrods, TSP rocker arm trunnion upgrade, Ls2 timing chain, Melling HP oil pump, ARP head bolts and GM head gaskets, NKG TR6 plugs, Holley Centerbolt Valvecovers, direct coil mount, ARP coil bolts, Holley EFI Ls3 Coil Wires, Ls3 Coils (D510c), spark plug wires (Taylor 78003), oil pan gasket
Now for the disappointment. First off, the car made 400rwhp/365 tq on the dynojet which was a little lower than I expected as it was sitting at 320rwhp prior to the upgrades. Really just interested in how it performs on the road though. While driving it home, I realized that it would NOT downshift into 1st gear at all regardless of how slow/fast you were rolling. If you were cruising above 35mph and punched it, it would downshift to 2nd though. Even trying to roll onto the throttle from a dig (because I get ZERO traction if you mash it) it would get hung up. Like it was shifting really premature or something…honestly hard to explain. You could run it through 1st if you manually started there but that’s obviously not a solution.
I also noticed slight but noticeable surging at pretty much all the cruising speeds I tried (45-60 mph). I realize a cam is going to have an effect, but all my research pointed towards the Tv2 being very streetable with adequate tuning. The idle seemed pretty high to me (900-1000) so no bucking at low speeds to speak of. TC lockup also bounced in/out with very light pressures either way. Much more noticeable than pre-install.
The car is also running VERY rich from my perspective. The exhaust tips were coated when I got home so I cleaned them up and took it around the block and they were nasty again. HEAVY gas smell behind the car and in the engine bay. Realize I have no cats and it did give off some smell prior to the install but this is MUCH worse.
All this said, I gave feedback to my tuner last night and am waiting for the thumbs up from him to get it back in there. I’m just a little concerned at this point with regards to next steps and what I should REALLY expect the car to run like. Just super disappointed with the investment right now. Was hoping to get any general thoughts/opinions/suggestions from the group. I’m far from a mechanic so just trying to educate myself the best I can prior to taking the car back it.
Also, just to add, I included all my suspension mods because I’m getting NO traction to speak of. Tuner adjusted my pinion to -1 he said and the LCA’s were dialed in. I’m running basically brand new 275/40/18 Nitto 555 g2’s on c6 OE wheels. Wonder if I’m missing something other than I just need a totally different rear tire/wheel setup. ☹
Thanks ahead of time for any feedback!
I picked up my car yesterday from my installer/tuner and was disappointed to say the least following my 45min drive home. Here’s a quick rundown of the car prior to the install and then exactly what was installed (apologize for the extensive list, just want to capture everything):
98’ T/A, 29k miles, Ls1, stock a4, 3.23’s, LID, Speed Eng 1-3/4” LT’s, ORY, Hooker catback, FTI 3600 stall, trans cooler & deeper pan, ported stock TB, koni str.t’s, BRM suspension parts: lowering springs, front/rear swaybar, SFC’s, LCA relocation bracket, adj. panhard, adj. torque arm, torque arm relocation bracket, Founders adj. LCA’s
Installed:
Ls6 Intake/gaskets, TSP Tv2 cam, PRC Stage 2.5 Ls6 heads (62cc), .660 dual springs w/ Ti retainers, GM balancer bolt, Ls7 lifters, hardened pushrods, TSP rocker arm trunnion upgrade, Ls2 timing chain, Melling HP oil pump, ARP head bolts and GM head gaskets, NKG TR6 plugs, Holley Centerbolt Valvecovers, direct coil mount, ARP coil bolts, Holley EFI Ls3 Coil Wires, Ls3 Coils (D510c), spark plug wires (Taylor 78003), oil pan gasket
Now for the disappointment. First off, the car made 400rwhp/365 tq on the dynojet which was a little lower than I expected as it was sitting at 320rwhp prior to the upgrades. Really just interested in how it performs on the road though. While driving it home, I realized that it would NOT downshift into 1st gear at all regardless of how slow/fast you were rolling. If you were cruising above 35mph and punched it, it would downshift to 2nd though. Even trying to roll onto the throttle from a dig (because I get ZERO traction if you mash it) it would get hung up. Like it was shifting really premature or something…honestly hard to explain. You could run it through 1st if you manually started there but that’s obviously not a solution.
I also noticed slight but noticeable surging at pretty much all the cruising speeds I tried (45-60 mph). I realize a cam is going to have an effect, but all my research pointed towards the Tv2 being very streetable with adequate tuning. The idle seemed pretty high to me (900-1000) so no bucking at low speeds to speak of. TC lockup also bounced in/out with very light pressures either way. Much more noticeable than pre-install.
The car is also running VERY rich from my perspective. The exhaust tips were coated when I got home so I cleaned them up and took it around the block and they were nasty again. HEAVY gas smell behind the car and in the engine bay. Realize I have no cats and it did give off some smell prior to the install but this is MUCH worse.
All this said, I gave feedback to my tuner last night and am waiting for the thumbs up from him to get it back in there. I’m just a little concerned at this point with regards to next steps and what I should REALLY expect the car to run like. Just super disappointed with the investment right now. Was hoping to get any general thoughts/opinions/suggestions from the group. I’m far from a mechanic so just trying to educate myself the best I can prior to taking the car back it.
Also, just to add, I included all my suspension mods because I’m getting NO traction to speak of. Tuner adjusted my pinion to -1 he said and the LCA’s were dialed in. I’m running basically brand new 275/40/18 Nitto 555 g2’s on c6 OE wheels. Wonder if I’m missing something other than I just need a totally different rear tire/wheel setup. ☹
Thanks ahead of time for any feedback!
#2
TECH Junkie
Sounds like a lot needs cleaned up in the tune.
One thing that will help is talk to him about only having the torque converter lock up in 4th above 45 mph.
I'm guessing the bucking and surging happens when cruising at lower rpms?
Next time you feel the bucking keep that constant speed with one foot then with your other foot just barely touch the brake while still pressing the gas. This will unlock the converter and your bucking should mellow out quite a bit.
As far the tires..... those things are not going to hold anything. Get a drag radial
One thing that will help is talk to him about only having the torque converter lock up in 4th above 45 mph.
I'm guessing the bucking and surging happens when cruising at lower rpms?
Next time you feel the bucking keep that constant speed with one foot then with your other foot just barely touch the brake while still pressing the gas. This will unlock the converter and your bucking should mellow out quite a bit.
As far the tires..... those things are not going to hold anything. Get a drag radial
The following users liked this post:
Jroth142 (09-09-2021)
#3
Thanks for the feedback!
Just a couple notes in response:
Lockup (I believe) is already set for 4th gear (46mph) only. And the slight bucking was present cruising at 60mph too which I believe is around 2k rpms but need to verify that.
I was afraid of that on the tires! Although it seemed to hook better prior to adding the adj. TA/relocation bracket and LCA's so was really hoping/thinking I just had some angles off from. my install.
Just a couple notes in response:
Lockup (I believe) is already set for 4th gear (46mph) only. And the slight bucking was present cruising at 60mph too which I believe is around 2k rpms but need to verify that.
I was afraid of that on the tires! Although it seemed to hook better prior to adding the adj. TA/relocation bracket and LCA's so was really hoping/thinking I just had some angles off from. my install.
#4
Well, took the car out again after work tonight and turns out it does appear to be locking up in 3rd gear as well. I'll be sure to mention that to my tuner.
Anyone else have any thoughts/suggestions?
Anyone else have any thoughts/suggestions?
The following 5 users liked this post by madmike9396:
02*C5 (10-01-2021), 99 Black Bird T/A (09-27-2021), G Atsma (09-09-2021), kinglt-1 (10-29-2021), unstable Vic (09-13-2021)
#6
Uhg....ya, really hope that's not the case. He's a good dude but clearly busy with some high end projects and feel like his focus may be elsewhere. Don't know any other tuners nearby (northeast Indiana) but have started to put some feelers out. Really feel like this should be a solid setup with good driveability if I can just get everything dialed in. Was a long time waiting so extra painful now that it's finally done.
#7
Post a couple pictures of your suspension setup. Rear lower control arm angel is important. In relation to the ground.
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#8
Actually ended up dropping the car off yesterday to a local tuner after a couple referrals. Fingers crossed I have better luck with this one!
I think the LCA's are pretty dialed, had them going 2* uphill from the relocation brackets which seemed like the consensus best practice. Will dive in a little deeper once I get the car back again. Wondering if just swapping out my rear nitto g2's for some of their drag radials (I know they've got a few different models) of the same (18") wheel size would be a big improvement or if I need to look into a smaller wheel setup so I can get some more sidewall back there??
I think the LCA's are pretty dialed, had them going 2* uphill from the relocation brackets which seemed like the consensus best practice. Will dive in a little deeper once I get the car back again. Wondering if just swapping out my rear nitto g2's for some of their drag radials (I know they've got a few different models) of the same (18") wheel size would be a big improvement or if I need to look into a smaller wheel setup so I can get some more sidewall back there??
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Jroth142 (09-11-2021)
#10
Thanks for the feedback!
Not a daily driver and only sees rain by accident! It's not going to see the track though either so just looking for a better street hook while maintaining good overall driveability for spirited seasonal driving.
Not a daily driver and only sees rain by accident! It's not going to see the track though either so just looking for a better street hook while maintaining good overall driveability for spirited seasonal driving.
#11
TECH Junkie
If you really wanna hook run the Hoosier Dr2.
The following users liked this post:
Jroth142 (09-11-2021)
The following users liked this post:
Jroth142 (09-11-2021)
#13
Just curious if anyone else has any opinions/suggestions with regards to the drag radials? Looks like I can get some MT Streets for about $50 less/tire compared to the NT05R's. Both are pricey for my current 18" setup so every little bit helps! Will probably keep researching this one for a little while though. First things first with getting the tune figured out!
#14
TECH Junkie
I have ran 555R's, NT05R'S, MT Et Streets and Hoosier Dr2's which are a radial slick. My favorite is running the slick on the street. I don't like losing races.
The Mickey's are a VERY nice radial and you will love them.
Traction
1. Hoosier Dr2's
2. Mickey Thompson
3. NT05R'S
4. 555R
Handling
1. 555R
2. NT05R'S
3. Mickey Thompson
4. Hoosier Dr2's
Rain
1.555R
2. Tie between Mt & NT05R'S
3. Hoosier Dr2's are not even a option even at 35mph.
Treadwear
1. 555R
2. NT05R'S
3. Mt
4. Hoosier Dr2's
These are the Hoosier Dr2's
The Mickey's are a VERY nice radial and you will love them.
Traction
1. Hoosier Dr2's
2. Mickey Thompson
3. NT05R'S
4. 555R
Handling
1. 555R
2. NT05R'S
3. Mickey Thompson
4. Hoosier Dr2's
Rain
1.555R
2. Tie between Mt & NT05R'S
3. Hoosier Dr2's are not even a option even at 35mph.
Treadwear
1. 555R
2. NT05R'S
3. Mt
4. Hoosier Dr2's
These are the Hoosier Dr2's
The following 2 users liked this post by 98CayenneT/A:
99 Black Bird T/A (09-27-2021), Jroth142 (09-11-2021)
#15
Great feedback!
Just curious what type of life span difference to expect from the MTs vs. the NT05R's? Cars only a seasonal driver but based on my research the Nitto sounds like the extra lifespan may be worth spending a little extra money on up front even if they don't hook quite as well on the street.
Just curious what type of life span difference to expect from the MTs vs. the NT05R's? Cars only a seasonal driver but based on my research the Nitto sounds like the extra lifespan may be worth spending a little extra money on up front even if they don't hook quite as well on the street.
#16
TECH Junkie
Great feedback!
Just curious what type of life span difference to expect from the MTs vs. the NT05R's? Cars only a seasonal driver but based on my research the Nitto sounds like the extra lifespan may be worth spending a little extra money on up front even if they don't hook quite as well on the street.
Just curious what type of life span difference to expect from the MTs vs. the NT05R's? Cars only a seasonal driver but based on my research the Nitto sounds like the extra lifespan may be worth spending a little extra money on up front even if they don't hook quite as well on the street.
If you wanted me to put a milage on it, with aggressive driving habits I would say around 15,000 mi. for the NT05R'S.
10,000 mi. for the MT
I got 3,000 mi. out of the Dr2's.
All those numbers include a few trips to the track and quite a few burnouts around town.
I could see them all going 20,000+ except for the Dr2's with conservative driving habits.
I am a poor judge of tire milage because I am VERY hard on tires lol
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Jroth142 (09-11-2021)
#18
So I did mean to include my dyno sheet (that my tuner didn't go over with me, was just thrown in a folder with other paperwork). I did pull it out when I was talking to the new tuner though and he we pretty adamant that something was not right at the point where my stall is hitting (3600). The car is super rich (smoking badly at WOT) so this is likely some evidence of that I would think/hope. He also commented that max power seemed low for my setup which was my initial thought as well.
Anyway, hopefully things go better this week with the car and this new guy. Appreciate all the feedback on both the car and tires!
Anyway, hopefully things go better this week with the car and this new guy. Appreciate all the feedback on both the car and tires!
#19
11 Second Club
iTrader: (21)
Great feedback!
Just curious what type of life span difference to expect from the MTs vs. the NT05R's? Cars only a seasonal driver but based on my research the Nitto sounds like the extra lifespan may be worth spending a little extra money on up front even if they don't hook quite as well on the street.
Just curious what type of life span difference to expect from the MTs vs. the NT05R's? Cars only a seasonal driver but based on my research the Nitto sounds like the extra lifespan may be worth spending a little extra money on up front even if they don't hook quite as well on the street.
The following users liked this post:
Jroth142 (09-16-2021)
#20
Launching!
iTrader: (7)
Jroth142,
I have a very similar LS1 heads/cam combination in my 91 Camaro, it definitely sounds like you have some issues in the tune and its a little down on power. Hopefully the new tuner can get it squared away for you. I'm running M/T ET Street SS Drag radials on my car and like them a lot. Traction is great on the street and at the track and they drive well. They aren't great in the rain but can get you home if you are careful. For me they are a perfect compromise for car that is a weekend cruiser and occasional racer.
I have a very similar LS1 heads/cam combination in my 91 Camaro, it definitely sounds like you have some issues in the tune and its a little down on power. Hopefully the new tuner can get it squared away for you. I'm running M/T ET Street SS Drag radials on my car and like them a lot. Traction is great on the street and at the track and they drive well. They aren't great in the rain but can get you home if you are careful. For me they are a perfect compromise for car that is a weekend cruiser and occasional racer.
The following users liked this post:
Jroth142 (09-16-2021)