theunderlord

Ok, before everyone tells me to search, (I did, trust me) hear me out.

I know about the differences between GenIII and GenIV; 24/58, AFM, DOD, VVT, Cathedral Port vs Rec Port, Cam Sensor Placement, Different Rods, DBC, DBW, Different Valley Cover Bolts, etc, etc engine codes, LY6, LQ4, LQ9, this place is supremely rad and has taught me all about those things.

I can even tell you that the Gen III 6.0L Iron Block LQ4/LQ9 is GM #19369841, and Gen IV 6.0L Iron Block LY6 is GM #12679002


But, what I can't figure out is if there is anything else different about them to justify spending the extra $ to buy the GenIII bare block vs GenIV bare block? Do a search for (GenIV) 19369841 and you'll see they're around $1,300 - $1,400. Do a search for (Gen III) 12679002 and they're almost $2,000. (SDPC has one with billet caps for a what looks like a good deal)

If you wanted to stay with iron block, and literally build whatever version of it you wanted, you know, hit it with ALL the right stuff. Is there any benefit to one block over the other?

Literally every thread I searched and read just devolved into people explaining the non block related differenced based on finding one in a junkyard which is great for everyone learning the basic differences of the associated parts, but I can't really find anything (obvious) about what makes the blocks any different for making power to try and explain the price difference or anything else major.

thx guys,

G Atsma

Depends on where you want your cam and knock sensors...

theunderlord

That's basically it right?

Gen III Valley covers are cheaper obviously, maybe a couple bucks more for the GenIV sensors, but none of that really matters.

jetech

Why is it you are wanting a "new" block? People are making HUGE numbers on old seasoned blocks

theunderlord

Where would you find a good used 6.0 Iron block that is 100% guaranteed not to be fubar?

For $1,400 bucks, buying a brand new one and having it shipped to my work for free is a helluva lot easier than having to deal with any of the terrible junkyards around here or local craigslist (which is garbage for engine parts here in Western Washington), any of which may or may not have any idea what to look for, won't know how to send me pictures of what I want to see, take days to get back to you, or have zero information on them when you finally do get a hold of them.

I don't need or want any of the parts that would come with a junkyard motor, and I don't want to have to deal with throwing it all away, or again, trying to part it out dealing with the craigslist people who never get back to you, or flake on you after three emails.

It's all going together with brand new aftermarket parts, so starting brand new is by far the easiest way to guarantee success. Just trying to figure out if there are any actual important differences between the 6.0 blocks other than Cam and Knock sensor holes, and if not, great, question answered.

Z28SteveA4

iTrader: (16)

That’s what I did myself I bought a brand new ls2 blocks I know it’s good and not beat up. Just how I like to do things too. Not that a used block would get what I want done but it’s just nice to know it’s no one else’s junk and it’s new!

theunderlord

Totally with you on that one brother.

Ls7colorado

iTrader: (3)

If all you need is a block then "if it spins it wins" (meaning if it isnt locked up or full of water your 99.99% good to go)....

Do the new blocks already come machined ready to assemble? If so then that would be the only advantage.
Is there a budget to your goals?

02*C5

iTrader: (1)

agree if a block spins you're in. Especially when dealing with an iron block. Those things are bullet proof and rarely do you get one that spins freely that has issues. If the block has issues like it's locked up or you see severe scoring in the cylinder wall then if you buy it then responsibility lies on the buyer not the seller or the "bad block"

Kawboom

Then I am the .01%. The complete engine I bought had eaten its front main bearings but still spun free and made compression. Deep scars in the crank, it was probably a mile from spinning the bearings when the PO turned it off and put it up for sale.

Just because it turns over doesn't mean its good. Do as much checking as you can.

wretched73

My 6.0 spun..... Spun a main bearing lol

Had a machine shop machine the block and install new cam bearings. Motor got hot at some point and needed .030" decked.

Bought the long block for $300 and had probably $1200 in machine work on the block.

Ls7colorado

iTrader: (3)

Always get junkyard engines from wrecked vehicles....
Anyways, if it eat into the crank why would that make the block trash??
This is why I asked if the "NEW" blocks are already machined and ready to be assembled because if not then even a 6.0 that has a bad bearing or 3 will be no different once machine work has been done.....

jetech

WOW! decked .030" Did you purchase pistons with raised wrist pin holes?

AwesomeAuto

Some gen 4 blocks are siamese bore. No gen 3 block is siamese bore.

theunderlord

sweet, thx man. That lead me to some more searching, found this

wretched73

Nope, regular pistons worked out fine

Che70velle

iTrader: (6)

You actually got that backwards. LY6 is Gen4. LQ4 and LQ9 were gen 3…ish.

theunderlord

Whoops, copy and paste error! Edited. thank you for catching that!