LS1 rocker trunnion failure
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Teching In
Joined: Aug 2022
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LS1 rocker trunnion failure G'day guys,
I've recently found myself in a bit of a pickle
Ive got a Nissan patrol with an ls1 in it, 13 months ago I had it completely rebuilt, with the addition of cam, dual valve springs, ls7 lifter, some other supporting mods, forged pistons, and ported heads. Unknown to me at the time it was rebuilt, the trunnions are a common point of failure, especially with a decent lift cam (about .608) and dual valve springs. The engine builders did not replace them, or feel the need to mention it to me.
Long story short, a week ago the engine started ticking/knocking very loudly, I pulled over a couple minutes later, by this point the car did not want to idle properly, and the tick was super loud.
I had it towed home, and found that the rocker trunnion on cylinder 2 exhaust was completely disintegrated.
The rocker are was full of metal shards and metal dust, not to mention the 66 needle bearings, of which I could only see a few still left in the rocker area.
The engine was built 13 months ago, warranty is 12 months. RIP.
So, my question is, what now?
I've spoken to a couple of engine builders who have recommended the engine be stripped down and checked/cleaned before even considering running it.
Alot of others have said it's fine to run it and just change the oil a few times.
Ive looked at pictures of the oil paths through the block, but am still not quite sure where all those metal bits could end up...
Any experience or guidance would be very much appreciated!
Thanks in advance.
I've recently found myself in a bit of a pickle
Ive got a Nissan patrol with an ls1 in it, 13 months ago I had it completely rebuilt, with the addition of cam, dual valve springs, ls7 lifter, some other supporting mods, forged pistons, and ported heads. Unknown to me at the time it was rebuilt, the trunnions are a common point of failure, especially with a decent lift cam (about .608) and dual valve springs. The engine builders did not replace them, or feel the need to mention it to me.
Long story short, a week ago the engine started ticking/knocking very loudly, I pulled over a couple minutes later, by this point the car did not want to idle properly, and the tick was super loud.
I had it towed home, and found that the rocker trunnion on cylinder 2 exhaust was completely disintegrated.
The rocker are was full of metal shards and metal dust, not to mention the 66 needle bearings, of which I could only see a few still left in the rocker area.
The engine was built 13 months ago, warranty is 12 months. RIP.
So, my question is, what now?
I've spoken to a couple of engine builders who have recommended the engine be stripped down and checked/cleaned before even considering running it.
Alot of others have said it's fine to run it and just change the oil a few times.
Ive looked at pictures of the oil paths through the block, but am still not quite sure where all those metal bits could end up...
Any experience or guidance would be very much appreciated!
Thanks in advance.
Last edited by OzHunter; Aug 17, 2022 at 10:37 PM.
I personally would pull the engine and tear it down completely to be 100% sure that I got all of the loose metal bits, and bearings, removed. If any of those metal bits can get past the screen on the oil pick up tube.. It's going to be catastrophic for the rest of the engine.. Pull the engine, remove all engine block galley plugs, barbell, oil pick up tube, and then use brushes to clean out all oil passages.. new oil pump-or open up the existing pump and insppect, and then verify nothing is stuck in the oil pick up screen or tube.. I'm sure my approach is over-kill but my luck dictates that if I left just one single needle bearing in the engine it would fail while I was in the middle of the dessert with a dead cell phone... That's just MY personal luck. Yours may be different.
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,593
Likes: 267
From: Halfway back on the Highway to Hell...again!
Been here twice.
At a minimum, you need to get it out, pull the pan and get all the needle bearings and pieces out of the pan and pick tube screen. Also, there may be a little something still in there that may work it's way to a catastrophic failure area. Like the reluctor wheel.
At a minimum, you need to get it out, pull the pan and get all the needle bearings and pieces out of the pan and pick tube screen. Also, there may be a little something still in there that may work it's way to a catastrophic failure area. Like the reluctor wheel.
Total removal and clean out are the best way. Anything less, you're rolling the dice. Will you be OK running it, and changing the oil more frequently? You PROBABLY will be OK. I wouldn't even consider this unless I had a very good magnetic drain plug in the sump. Your engine, your money, your choice. You could dodge a bullet, or it may nail you in the head, no pun intended. If the trunnions were OEM, it isn't that common, but it does happen. I once ran an improperly set up (by AFR!!) pair of $3,000 (in 2005$$) AFR 225 heads, where the installed height on dual springs was set up. 100" too short. With a .600 lift cam, I still never had a problem with the OEM trunnions. If it was my engine, I'd pull it. My .02.......
I rolled the dice when it happened to me. The needle bearings will drain down over the lifters and down into the oil pan. I was able to collect them all out of my pan by dragging magnets across the bottom of the sump to the drain plug and draining the oil. No problems for years until I swapped heads and a valve spring failed.
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,593
Likes: 267
From: Halfway back on the Highway to Hell...again!
Yea, this ordeal sucks. Went through twice in a month on the same car. First was with a trunion kit previous owner installed (comp cams), 2nd set was to just get me by until I could get parts gathered to do a full new cam setup. Borrowed them from a friend for the time being. They let loose too. This time it took out my cam and had to replace 2 valves on #8. Pull motor and was probably 50 needle bearing in my pickup screen and 100 more in the pan.
I only use CHE now. I am DONE with needle bearings. I don't care who claims to have good ones. At least with using stock rockers. Otherwise pull out the big bucks for some good Harland Sharps or something.
I only use CHE now. I am DONE with needle bearings. I don't care who claims to have good ones. At least with using stock rockers. Otherwise pull out the big bucks for some good Harland Sharps or something.
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I'd drop the pan and inspect, clean the screen and inspect the oil filter element. Any damage to the valve or pushrod? You may have lucked out and just need to replace the rocker arm but I'd go ahead and do them all.