Keep breaking valve springs but only on passenger side
#1
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Keep breaking valve springs but only on passenger side
As the title says, I keep breaking springs, but only on the passenger side, and only 10 or so miles after cam and valvetrain upgrades. Platform is an '02 4.8 ex cab 4dr 2wd, BTR Truck Norris cam (.552 lift), BTR trunnion upgraded rockers, 7.4" chromoly pushrods(BTR recommended), BTR .560 valve springs, LS7 lifters w/ new OEM trays, moderately-ported and milled 862 heads (10.4:1), port-matched stock truck intake, dual CAI at the corners after battery relocation, electric fan conversion, fresh rebuilt 4l60e (bone stock other than cheap corvette servo), BTR "truck yea" converter. 1.75" long tube headers into 20" long 3" collectors then equal length true duals into x pipe then into 2.5" equal lengths to dual 2.5" spintech 6000s turned down in front of rear axle (the drone at 2000 rpm will make your eyes water .) Pre-loaded lifters all between 3/4 - 1 turn past zero lash. Professionally-tuned (his hptuners showed combined over 900 credits but was my first time using him and I have no data logs from the tune but could likely get a copy tomorrow, if needed). Probably more info than needed, but better than too little I guess.
Let the engine reach operating temp then cool completely down twice (sub 2500ish rpm each time), drove it roughly 4-5 miles then made one WOT hit to about 4800rpm and could immediately tell I lost at least one cylinder. Popped the valve covers and had 2 broken intake springs, 1 exhaust spring, all on the passenger side. No valve slap and push rods were fine. Got a P0106 Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circucit Range/Performance code so I pulled the map sensor and the o-ring look dry-rotted, replaced it, pulled the pcv valve to also check it as well and when I shook it, it rattled but not like it should have(sounded/felt gunked up) so replaced it, and then replaced the 3 broken springs. Rinse, repeat, then again at about 4-5 miles made an identical hit as before and broke the other 2 intake springs and another exhaust spring, again all on the passenger side, and now again throwing the P0106 code after making sure it was cleared from before, and now that's where I'm currently at and I've been scratching my head until I'm almost to bare skull, since. Now I'm no rocket surgeon or mathmagician, but I'm smart enough to know that I'm not smart enough to diagnose this one on my own because I have no clue what's causing this and I'm really hoping one of you rockstars can give me a reason to dress up like you on hero day. I'm at a complete loss. Going to replace the 3 broken springs tomorrow after work, and tempted to pull the intake off and then go through the torque sequence again just to make sure I don't have a leak somewhere that's rearing its head and becoming an issue with the increase in pressure at WOT. If that is what's throwing the code, if hypothetically a leak be on that bank 2 side could that alone cause enough disruption or anything to domino into an issue serious enough to break springs? Again, I'm just sorta grasping at straws here because I'm at a loss. In advance, many thanks!
Wade
Let the engine reach operating temp then cool completely down twice (sub 2500ish rpm each time), drove it roughly 4-5 miles then made one WOT hit to about 4800rpm and could immediately tell I lost at least one cylinder. Popped the valve covers and had 2 broken intake springs, 1 exhaust spring, all on the passenger side. No valve slap and push rods were fine. Got a P0106 Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circucit Range/Performance code so I pulled the map sensor and the o-ring look dry-rotted, replaced it, pulled the pcv valve to also check it as well and when I shook it, it rattled but not like it should have(sounded/felt gunked up) so replaced it, and then replaced the 3 broken springs. Rinse, repeat, then again at about 4-5 miles made an identical hit as before and broke the other 2 intake springs and another exhaust spring, again all on the passenger side, and now again throwing the P0106 code after making sure it was cleared from before, and now that's where I'm currently at and I've been scratching my head until I'm almost to bare skull, since. Now I'm no rocket surgeon or mathmagician, but I'm smart enough to know that I'm not smart enough to diagnose this one on my own because I have no clue what's causing this and I'm really hoping one of you rockstars can give me a reason to dress up like you on hero day. I'm at a complete loss. Going to replace the 3 broken springs tomorrow after work, and tempted to pull the intake off and then go through the torque sequence again just to make sure I don't have a leak somewhere that's rearing its head and becoming an issue with the increase in pressure at WOT. If that is what's throwing the code, if hypothetically a leak be on that bank 2 side could that alone cause enough disruption or anything to domino into an issue serious enough to break springs? Again, I'm just sorta grasping at straws here because I'm at a loss. In advance, many thanks!
Wade
Last edited by 2Heavy4Fast; 09-14-2022 at 04:46 PM.
#2
You need to check installed height on a few valves and might as well verify lift at the valve. Without that info we can speculate all day. Valve train doesn't care about the tune.
The following 2 users liked this post by TurboBuick6:
2Heavy4Fast (09-14-2022), grinder11 (09-16-2022)
#3
TECH Fanatic
I thinki your pushrods are too short for your lifters, but I've been wrong before. There could be somehow some variance in thickness in the block or cylinder head or even the head gasket that's getting the rockers close enough on one side to run on the ragged edge of preload and just not enough on the other side. Again I could be wrong and so much more likely than that, I here that there is often a whole lot of variance in replacement lifters as well for these engines and so that is where I would start looking. some lifters may need significant amount more prelude and you just might need longer pushrods to keep it from falling apart. Many out there are running bTR cams with no issues but they also have the original lifters in there still as well
#4
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
What's the best way to verify that? Just cycle it through by hand and use a caliper to measure the difference in spring height?
#5
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
I thinki your pushrods are too short for your lifters, but I've been wrong before. There could be somehow some variance in thickness in the block or cylinder head or even the head gasket that's getting the rockers close enough on one side to run on the ragged edge of preload and just not enough on the other side. Again I could be wrong and so much more likely than that, I here that there is often a whole lot of variance in replacement lifters as well for these engines and so that is where I would start looking. some lifters may need significant amount more prelude and you just might need longer pushrods to keep it from falling apart. Many out there are running bTR cams with no issues but they also have the original lifters in there still as well
#6
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (21)
Maybe the btr small .550.560 springs he sells with the smaller cam kits? He told me hes never had one break or reported as broken. Elgin told me to try to leave some extra room say a .595 lift cam and pac 1218s .600 max lift would work but pac 1219s be better before coil bind. I run .625 pac1219s with a .575 lift cam for future cam upgrades.
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2Heavy4Fast (09-14-2022)
#7
TECH Regular
Possibility that some countefeit Xhinese steel inadvertantly "Leaked" into your valve springs ?
The following 2 users liked this post by Full Power:
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Trending Topics
#8
Should use a spring Micrometer for installed height. For lift, best to use a low force checking spring, dial indicator on retainer and sweep through lift.
The following 2 users liked this post by TurboBuick6:
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#9
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Maybe the btr small .550.560 springs he sells with the smaller cam kits? He told me hes never had one break or reported as broken. Elgin told me to try to leave some extra room say a .595 lift cam and pac 1218s .600 max lift would work but pac 1219s be better before coil bind. I run .625 pac1219s with a .575 lift cam for future cam upgrades.
#10
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (39)
I thinki your pushrods are too short for your lifters, but I've been wrong before. There could be somehow some variance in thickness in the block or cylinder head or even the head gasket that's getting the rockers close enough on one side to run on the ragged edge of preload and just not enough on the other side. Again I could be wrong and so much more likely than that, I here that there is often a whole lot of variance in replacement lifters as well for these engines and so that is where I would start looking. some lifters may need significant amount more prelude and you just might need longer pushrods to keep it from falling apart. Many out there are running bTR cams with no issues but they also have the original lifters in there still as well
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2Heavy4Fast (09-14-2022)
#11
ModSquad
iTrader: (6)
You need to figure out your installed height before you go farther. You can throw parts at it if you want, but knowing your IH, combined with your cam specs, will tell you exactly what spring you need.
The following 2 users liked this post by Che70velle:
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#12
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (39)
OP,
You need to measure your spring install height. After that do the math and figure out how close you are to coil bind.
That's a pretty serious failure with in such a short time span.
I would think you are either in coil bind or got a very bad batch of springs out of the box.
I'm not familiar with those springs. What type of valve seals are you using?
Do they use a factory type valve seal with the locator or does it use an aftermarket PC style seal?
You need to measure your spring install height. After that do the math and figure out how close you are to coil bind.
That's a pretty serious failure with in such a short time span.
I would think you are either in coil bind or got a very bad batch of springs out of the box.
I'm not familiar with those springs. What type of valve seals are you using?
Do they use a factory type valve seal with the locator or does it use an aftermarket PC style seal?
#13
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
#14
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Last edited by 2Heavy4Fast; 09-14-2022 at 05:14 PM. Reason: I have the typing skills of a head of lettuce
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Che70velle (09-14-2022)
#15
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
OP,
You need to measure your spring install height. After that do the math and figure out how close you are to coil bind.
That's a pretty serious failure with in such a short time span.
I would think you are either in coil bind or got a very bad batch of springs out of the box.
I'm not familiar with those springs. What type of valve seals are you using?
Do they use a factory type valve seal with the locator or does it use an aftermarket PC style seal?
You need to measure your spring install height. After that do the math and figure out how close you are to coil bind.
That's a pretty serious failure with in such a short time span.
I would think you are either in coil bind or got a very bad batch of springs out of the box.
I'm not familiar with those springs. What type of valve seals are you using?
Do they use a factory type valve seal with the locator or does it use an aftermarket PC style seal?
#17
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
#18
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
UPDATE: I was, in fact, getting into coil bind. After measuring install height I was on average 1-one thousandths out from it, so safe to say that's my issue. To everyone that responded, thank you!!
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99 Black Bird T/A (09-15-2022), G Atsma (09-15-2022)
#19
ModSquad
iTrader: (6)
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2Heavy4Fast (09-18-2022), CattleAc (09-15-2022)
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