pushrod ends
#4
TECH Senior Member
Same contact area. Shouldn't be an issue
#5
"¾ sphere" is just an artifact of how far down into the "tube" part of the rod the ball goes before it reaches the weld. If they welded it all the way up to the "equator" of the ball, it would look like a "hemisphere". Wouldn't "be" any different really, would just "look" different.
Doesn't matter in any case. The only part of the end of the PR that does any work, is the top half or so (hemisphere) of the ball. Usually less than a third of it, actually. The rest never touches anything.
Many stock push rods are 1-piece. Unlike that 3-piece pile of crap thing you have there. Most "better than stock replacement" ones (aka 1-piece) have the end swedged over. "Custom" ones could be anything, but they have to have some way of adjusting their length in between the hemispheres; so many might well be 3-piece, like the "custom" one in your pic. While still 3-piece, it's clearly better than the cheeeeeeep 3-piece type that looks like 2 ball bearings welded into a tube. The reason those are crap is because they fail easily by way of the ball getting driven down into the tube by high loads, and splitting the end of the tube open.
I think you're overthinking that specific insignificant appearance attribute somehow.
Doesn't matter in any case. The only part of the end of the PR that does any work, is the top half or so (hemisphere) of the ball. Usually less than a third of it, actually. The rest never touches anything.
Many stock push rods are 1-piece. Unlike that 3-piece pile of crap thing you have there. Most "better than stock replacement" ones (aka 1-piece) have the end swedged over. "Custom" ones could be anything, but they have to have some way of adjusting their length in between the hemispheres; so many might well be 3-piece, like the "custom" one in your pic. While still 3-piece, it's clearly better than the cheeeeeeep 3-piece type that looks like 2 ball bearings welded into a tube. The reason those are crap is because they fail easily by way of the ball getting driven down into the tube by high loads, and splitting the end of the tube open.
I think you're overthinking that specific insignificant appearance attribute somehow.
#6
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
well, its difficult to see the rocker arm/push rod angle. the rocker moves by 20°. at 10° the edge of the semi-sphere just toutches the edge of the cup. as the rocker is not square to the push rod at mid-lift the half-sphere probably comes out of the cup. now we could discuss if this is beneficial (oil entrainment) or detrimental (scraping off the oil), but i think the original 3/4 spheres might be there for a reason. i know smith does the 3/4 spheres for the ls1 because i have a sample here.
also, what do you think about the smaller holes and the "texture" on the *****? is it a special coating? i have only seen polished ***** so far.
btw, the set was $550 so i strongly hope its not a "pile of crap", i just want to make sure they didn mix up the application. (of course they will say they didnt.)
also, what do you think about the smaller holes and the "texture" on the *****? is it a special coating? i have only seen polished ***** so far.
btw, the set was $550 so i strongly hope its not a "pile of crap", i just want to make sure they didn mix up the application. (of course they will say they didnt.)
#7
TECH Fanatic
well, its difficult to see the rocker arm/push rod angle. the rocker moves by 20°. at 10° the edge of the semi-sphere just toutches the edge of the cup. as the rocker is not square to the push rod at mid-lift the half-sphere probably comes out of the cup. now we could discuss if this is beneficial (oil entrainment) or detrimental (scraping off the oil), but i think the original 3/4 spheres might be there for a reason. i know smith does the 3/4 spheres for the ls1 because i have a sample here.
also, what do you think about the smaller holes and the "texture" on the *****? is it a special coating? i have only seen polished ***** so far.
btw, the set was $550 so i strongly hope its not a "pile of crap", i just want to make sure they didn mix up the application. (of course they will say they didnt.)
also, what do you think about the smaller holes and the "texture" on the *****? is it a special coating? i have only seen polished ***** so far.
btw, the set was $550 so i strongly hope its not a "pile of crap", i just want to make sure they didn mix up the application. (of course they will say they didnt.)
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#8
TECH Addict
iTrader: (1)
"¾ sphere" is just an artifact of how far down into the "tube" part of the rod the ball goes before it reaches the weld. If they welded it all the way up to the "equator" of the ball, it would look like a "hemisphere". Wouldn't "be" any different really, would just "look" different.
Doesn't matter in any case. The only part of the end of the PR that does any work, is the top half or so (hemisphere) of the ball. Usually less than a third of it, actually. The rest never touches anything.
Many stock push rods are 1-piece. Unlike that 3-piece pile of crap thing you have there. Most "better than stock replacement" ones (aka 1-piece) have the end swedged over. "Custom" ones could be anything, but they have to have some way of adjusting their length in between the hemispheres; so many might well be 3-piece, like the "custom" one in your pic. While still 3-piece, it's clearly better than the cheeeeeeep 3-piece type that looks like 2 ball bearings welded into a tube. The reason those are crap is because they fail easily by way of the ball getting driven down into the tube by high loads, and splitting the end of the tube open.
I think you're overthinking that specific insignificant appearance attribute somehow.
Doesn't matter in any case. The only part of the end of the PR that does any work, is the top half or so (hemisphere) of the ball. Usually less than a third of it, actually. The rest never touches anything.
Many stock push rods are 1-piece. Unlike that 3-piece pile of crap thing you have there. Most "better than stock replacement" ones (aka 1-piece) have the end swedged over. "Custom" ones could be anything, but they have to have some way of adjusting their length in between the hemispheres; so many might well be 3-piece, like the "custom" one in your pic. While still 3-piece, it's clearly better than the cheeeeeeep 3-piece type that looks like 2 ball bearings welded into a tube. The reason those are crap is because they fail easily by way of the ball getting driven down into the tube by high loads, and splitting the end of the tube open.
I think you're overthinking that specific insignificant appearance attribute somehow.
#9
TECH Senior Member
I'm just curious as to which miraculous traits a $500 set of pushrods might exhibit. Some of us are in the wrong business....
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Coy (09-28-2022)
#10
ModSquad
iTrader: (6)
I have sets of custom built polished 1/2” and 9/16” pushrods in the shop that didn’t cost anywhere near that. Custom made for Cup engines.
Dian, the texture on the tips of that pushrod concerns me. The female ball side of the rocker is polished, and as should be the pushrod tip. There’s a lot of wear there, even though the union is well lubricated. I feel like the textured surface would accelerate wear much faster than a typical polished pushrod tip. My humble opinion, of course…
Dian, the texture on the tips of that pushrod concerns me. The female ball side of the rocker is polished, and as should be the pushrod tip. There’s a lot of wear there, even though the union is well lubricated. I feel like the textured surface would accelerate wear much faster than a typical polished pushrod tip. My humble opinion, of course…
#11
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
a set of duall-taper rods will set you back up to $560 w/o shipping. at least that what im being quoted. and probably more some some longer/thick wall stuff.
yes, the texture makes me wonder. what kind of coating it is and if its proven to work. (today they texture all kinds of stuff, from piston rings to bearing surfaces, im just trying to get pertinent info on it.)
i checked out some internet offerings and indeed some of the reputable products for the ls1 seem to have swaged (just rounded off) ends. based on my impression i dont know how that works (stem hitting edge of cup?) but apparently it does.
so does it make sence to have the restricted holes in an engine that doesnt see much over 6500 rpm max?
this is a smith dual-taper on the left. it has a 1.9mm hole, stem is polished (the ones in question are a bit rough), i like it a lot, but was not able to get these.
yes, the texture makes me wonder. what kind of coating it is and if its proven to work. (today they texture all kinds of stuff, from piston rings to bearing surfaces, im just trying to get pertinent info on it.)
i checked out some internet offerings and indeed some of the reputable products for the ls1 seem to have swaged (just rounded off) ends. based on my impression i dont know how that works (stem hitting edge of cup?) but apparently it does.
so does it make sence to have the restricted holes in an engine that doesnt see much over 6500 rpm max?
this is a smith dual-taper on the left. it has a 1.9mm hole, stem is polished (the ones in question are a bit rough), i like it a lot, but was not able to get these.
Last edited by Dian; 09-22-2022 at 11:12 PM.
#12
TECH Fanatic
6500 rpm and your this worried about the pushrods? Any LS engine even a bottom feeder truck engine (they all have the same valvetrain) will turn that rpm stock without breaking anything.
Getting the preload right for whatever camshaft you are running will keep you from breaking pushrods.
Both of the cars in my signature I built myself and they are turning well over 7k rpm regularly, competitively, and with $85 oem factory ls6 valve springs and $100 dollar 0.080 wall chromemoly pushrods from btr or trick flow, whatever was on sale I don't even remember.
We are just trying to understand what you are doing here
Getting the preload right for whatever camshaft you are running will keep you from breaking pushrods.
Both of the cars in my signature I built myself and they are turning well over 7k rpm regularly, competitively, and with $85 oem factory ls6 valve springs and $100 dollar 0.080 wall chromemoly pushrods from btr or trick flow, whatever was on sale I don't even remember.
We are just trying to understand what you are doing here
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G Atsma (09-23-2022)
#13
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
please dont worry about what im doing, it has nothing to do with the issue.
so i have definitely come to the conclusion the half-spheres are no problem (neither are the rounded off ends). the pushrod is almost square to the cup (black line in the picture) on the base circle, so it moves by about 18°. on closer inspection its no problem, my rockers have "cups in the cup" and only the inner cup toutches. the standard rockers have flared cups where the rod end is riding on an inner circle, so no problem either. i will contact trend about the coating.
so any opinions on the restricted oil holes? i have comp cams rods (3/4 spheres also) that at least have 2mm holes (original 2.3mm, trend in picture 1.5mm, smith 1.9mm). its 2.3x less area than original.
so i have definitely come to the conclusion the half-spheres are no problem (neither are the rounded off ends). the pushrod is almost square to the cup (black line in the picture) on the base circle, so it moves by about 18°. on closer inspection its no problem, my rockers have "cups in the cup" and only the inner cup toutches. the standard rockers have flared cups where the rod end is riding on an inner circle, so no problem either. i will contact trend about the coating.
so any opinions on the restricted oil holes? i have comp cams rods (3/4 spheres also) that at least have 2mm holes (original 2.3mm, trend in picture 1.5mm, smith 1.9mm). its 2.3x less area than original.
#14
TECH Fanatic
Well just going to keep trying to guess what you're doing here, at least tell us what kind of vehicle you're putting this in and what you're planning to do with it? People are more willing to help and weigh in if you're honest about your goals. Displacement? Camshaft timing? Cylinder heads? Power adder? This thread could get pretty interesting or you could make another one about what you're doing. You are clearly meticulous and you want to get everything right nothing wrong with that at all. When you come here for help you can help others too.
I was thinking about the push rod orifice diameter though and my best guess would be that a smaller diameter hole (More restrictive) would increase the oil pressure inside and around the lifter from what it would be with a larger diameter orifice. I suppose that This could improve the stability of the valve train, The trade-off being less oil volume to the rockers
I was thinking about the push rod orifice diameter though and my best guess would be that a smaller diameter hole (More restrictive) would increase the oil pressure inside and around the lifter from what it would be with a larger diameter orifice. I suppose that This could improve the stability of the valve train, The trade-off being less oil volume to the rockers
Last edited by stockA4; 09-23-2022 at 08:31 AM.
#15
TECH Senior Member
Dian- Nobody is being nosey. The better mental picture of what you are doing goes a long way to understanding any perceived issue here, along with how anyone would charge $500 for a set of pushrods. Somebody saw you coming
As was said above, a MUCH cheaper set of stock pushrods will handle 6500RPM without any issue.
As was said above, a MUCH cheaper set of stock pushrods will handle 6500RPM without any issue.
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stockA4 (09-23-2022)
#16
ModSquad
iTrader: (6)
please dont worry about what im doing, it has nothing to do with the issue.
so i have definitely come to the conclusion the half-spheres are no problem (neither are the rounded off ends). the pushrod is almost square to the cup (black line in the picture) on the base circle, so it moves by about 18°. on closer inspection its no problem, my rockers have "cups in the cup" and only the inner cup toutches. the standard rockers have flared cups where the rod end is riding on an inner circle, so no problem either. i will contact trend about the coating.
so any opinions on the restricted oil holes? i have comp cams rods (3/4 spheres also) that at least have 2mm holes (original 2.3mm, trend in picture 1.5mm, smith 1.9mm). its 2.3x less area than original.
so i have definitely come to the conclusion the half-spheres are no problem (neither are the rounded off ends). the pushrod is almost square to the cup (black line in the picture) on the base circle, so it moves by about 18°. on closer inspection its no problem, my rockers have "cups in the cup" and only the inner cup toutches. the standard rockers have flared cups where the rod end is riding on an inner circle, so no problem either. i will contact trend about the coating.
so any opinions on the restricted oil holes? i have comp cams rods (3/4 spheres also) that at least have 2mm holes (original 2.3mm, trend in picture 1.5mm, smith 1.9mm). its 2.3x less area than original.
#18
TECH Apprentice
Thread Starter
so do i run the restricted holes or not?
its not like the whole lenght has the restriction, its only the tips. what are the sizes of the lifter orifices? if they are not substantially larger than 1.5mm (0.06") either its not worth further investigation.
btw, the holes in the rockers are 1.8mm stock and 1.1mm on the yellas.
its not like the whole lenght has the restriction, its only the tips. what are the sizes of the lifter orifices? if they are not substantially larger than 1.5mm (0.06") either its not worth further investigation.
btw, the holes in the rockers are 1.8mm stock and 1.1mm on the yellas.
Last edited by Dian; 09-24-2022 at 02:17 AM.
#19
TECH Senior Member
You only need one restriction to cut flow. The whole length does not need tobe the smaller diameter.
#20
TECH Addict
iTrader: (1)
Last edited by grinder11; 09-24-2022 at 11:25 AM.