pushrod ends
Doesn't matter in any case. The only part of the end of the PR that does any work, is the top half or so (hemisphere) of the ball. Usually less than a third of it, actually. The rest never touches anything.
Many stock push rods are 1-piece. Unlike that 3-piece pile of crap thing you have there. Most "better than stock replacement" ones (aka 1-piece) have the end swedged over. "Custom" ones could be anything, but they have to have some way of adjusting their length in between the hemispheres; so many might well be 3-piece, like the "custom" one in your pic. While still 3-piece, it's clearly better than the cheeeeeeep 3-piece type that looks like 2 ball bearings welded into a tube. The reason those are crap is because they fail easily by way of the ball getting driven down into the tube by high loads, and splitting the end of the tube open.
I think you're overthinking that specific insignificant appearance attribute somehow.
also, what do you think about the smaller holes and the "texture" on the *****? is it a special coating? i have only seen polished ***** so far.
btw, the set was $550 so i strongly hope its not a "pile of crap", i just want to make sure they didn mix up the application. (of course they will say they didnt.)
also, what do you think about the smaller holes and the "texture" on the *****? is it a special coating? i have only seen polished ***** so far.
btw, the set was $550 so i strongly hope its not a "pile of crap", i just want to make sure they didn mix up the application. (of course they will say they didnt.)
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Doesn't matter in any case. The only part of the end of the PR that does any work, is the top half or so (hemisphere) of the ball. Usually less than a third of it, actually. The rest never touches anything.
Many stock push rods are 1-piece. Unlike that 3-piece pile of crap thing you have there. Most "better than stock replacement" ones (aka 1-piece) have the end swedged over. "Custom" ones could be anything, but they have to have some way of adjusting their length in between the hemispheres; so many might well be 3-piece, like the "custom" one in your pic. While still 3-piece, it's clearly better than the cheeeeeeep 3-piece type that looks like 2 ball bearings welded into a tube. The reason those are crap is because they fail easily by way of the ball getting driven down into the tube by high loads, and splitting the end of the tube open.
I think you're overthinking that specific insignificant appearance attribute somehow.

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Dian, the texture on the tips of that pushrod concerns me. The female ball side of the rocker is polished, and as should be the pushrod tip. There’s a lot of wear there, even though the union is well lubricated. I feel like the textured surface would accelerate wear much faster than a typical polished pushrod tip. My humble opinion, of course…
yes, the texture makes me wonder. what kind of coating it is and if its proven to work. (today they texture all kinds of stuff, from piston rings to bearing surfaces, im just trying to get pertinent info on it.)
i checked out some internet offerings and indeed some of the reputable products for the ls1 seem to have swaged (just rounded off) ends. based on my impression i dont know how that works (stem hitting edge of cup?) but apparently it does.
so does it make sence to have the restricted holes in an engine that doesnt see much over 6500 rpm max?
this is a smith dual-taper on the left. it has a 1.9mm hole, stem is polished (the ones in question are a bit rough), i like it a lot, but was not able to get these.
Last edited by Dian; Sep 22, 2022 at 11:12 PM.
Getting the preload right for whatever camshaft you are running will keep you from breaking pushrods.
Both of the cars in my signature I built myself and they are turning well over 7k rpm regularly, competitively, and with $85 oem factory ls6 valve springs and $100 dollar 0.080 wall chromemoly pushrods from btr or trick flow, whatever was on sale I don't even remember.
We are just trying to understand what you are doing here
so i have definitely come to the conclusion the half-spheres are no problem (neither are the rounded off ends). the pushrod is almost square to the cup (black line in the picture) on the base circle, so it moves by about 18°. on closer inspection its no problem, my rockers have "cups in the cup" and only the inner cup toutches. the standard rockers have flared cups where the rod end is riding on an inner circle, so no problem either. i will contact trend about the coating.
so any opinions on the restricted oil holes? i have comp cams rods (3/4 spheres also) that at least have 2mm holes (original 2.3mm, trend in picture 1.5mm, smith 1.9mm). its 2.3x less area than original.
I was thinking about the push rod orifice diameter though and my best guess would be that a smaller diameter hole (More restrictive) would increase the oil pressure inside and around the lifter from what it would be with a larger diameter orifice. I suppose that This could improve the stability of the valve train, The trade-off being less oil volume to the rockers
Last edited by stockA4; Sep 23, 2022 at 08:31 AM.
As was said above, a MUCH cheaper set of stock pushrods will handle 6500RPM without any issue.
so i have definitely come to the conclusion the half-spheres are no problem (neither are the rounded off ends). the pushrod is almost square to the cup (black line in the picture) on the base circle, so it moves by about 18°. on closer inspection its no problem, my rockers have "cups in the cup" and only the inner cup toutches. the standard rockers have flared cups where the rod end is riding on an inner circle, so no problem either. i will contact trend about the coating.
so any opinions on the restricted oil holes? i have comp cams rods (3/4 spheres also) that at least have 2mm holes (original 2.3mm, trend in picture 1.5mm, smith 1.9mm). its 2.3x less area than original.
its not like the whole lenght has the restriction, its only the tips. what are the sizes of the lifter orifices? if they are not substantially larger than 1.5mm (0.06") either its not worth further investigation.
btw, the holes in the rockers are 1.8mm stock and 1.1mm on the yellas.
Last edited by Dian; Sep 24, 2022 at 02:17 AM.

Last edited by grinder11; Sep 24, 2022 at 11:25 AM.











