Anyone have any info on this cam? I called TSP and they are being bitches about giving out the cam specs. Said they won't give out there customers cam specs. So I called RK speed and emailed them with no help again.

 

Maybe you should try contacting RK Speed instead of Texas Speed for those cam spec's. Does the WO stand for work order?

 

I did call them and talked to them along with emailing them. They said it was a older grind and they couldn't remember the exact specs.

 

Looks like it's going to be degree wheel wheel and dial indicator time.

 

They're very secretive about specs. He specs his own cams. Seriously doubt he can't remember. I did see someone selling one I think on FB Marketplace and they advertised it as 239-247, 649-629, 114+5, but unless given to me free and I was willing to try as is, or have it doctored, I would not buy.

 

As mentioned other companies can cam doctor it and give you a print out.

 

Not hard to determine the duration, lift and LSA if you have basic knowledge and the tools. You can get a degree in camshaft school from the University of Google and Youtube.

 

A junk block with good cam bearings and lifter bores, along with a good dial indicator and degree wheel, can be used as a homemade "cam doctor".

 

Until you come across a guy saying he has 270° lift, and .650" duration!!

 

I empathize with you. I had a builder, Thomson Automotive, that had a lot of builds featured in several car magazines. The owner told me he built the LS7 engine in Mark Stielow's car, and it cost $40,000 (in 2014)!!!! Barry Kluczyk, well known car magazine article writer, once said Thomson was "tight lipped" when it came getting cam specs from him. When he was building my motor, I already had the cam I wanted, and I told him that I'd read that story. He said 'that's BS, we tell everyone what we run!' Sure enough, when I gave him the specs of my cam, all he would divulge is 'that's pretty much what we use!!' Kluczyk was right!!! Nobody divulges their spouses bedroom skills, but sometimes I think cam specs are even more secretive!!!!

 

There's some real world jack asses and dumb asses out there unfortunately but a camshaft, engine block, degree wheel, micrometer and dial caliper is all that is needed to take the measurements.

 

That's exactly how a lot of guys should learn about a cam install. Finding true TDC, a degree wheel, coat hanger, and correct use of a dial indicator, hands on is the best way to learn everything. I learned on Kawasaki DOHC motorcycle engine-With a surface ground (milled) head!!! Timing sprockets were slotted, to adjust valve timing, and LSA. It can get pretty hairy, I'll tell you!!! One thing that kinda bugs me is how many folks still consider the pushrod engine simple. In my experience, they are one Helluva lot more complex to setup correctly!!

 

Never worked on motorcycle engines but I'm sure the same applies. I'm still trying to understand how one spec's a camshaft for a particualr engine. "Like being able to look at the grimd and say that camshaft would be better suited in a stroker"

 

Guys I know how to use a degree wheel. Got my own tools to do it. Problem is I don't have a spare block sitting around to do this and don't want to pull the heads off to put a solid lifter in place. I was told this cam is a 239/247 .617/.617 112 lsa. Just want to make sure before I install as I don't need a piston to valve issue on the factory pistons that I have flycut .060 . The heads are TFS 235 milled down to 60cc. I'm also running a felpro 1041 HG that is .041 thick.

 

It's the duration that is of concern because lift can be checked with a micrometer and the camshaft in hand. That's probably too much duration for a flat top piston but you have valve reliefs cut and P-V would need to be checked anyway so maybe install it with some checking springs and confirm the duration and LSA.