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Like the title says. Wondering what people think I should go with. Trying to keep it narrow and centered.
Black is no shim
green is 1 shim
red is 2
I forgot to take pictures with 3, but it looked off to me anyways. I can do it again if necessary
I rocked the rocker arm close to bottoming out with the checker spring. I didn't have any way to measure the lift and I'm running a high lift cam anyways (6.12 at the valve).
Mock the head up on your engine and do this, with the cam installed. You don’t want to go past your cams lift numbers. There’s no sense of you trying to set up geometry for .800 lift, when your only in the .600 range. Your only guessing at this by setting it up on the bench unless your using the correct dial indicators and set-up stands.
Mock the head up on your engine and do this, with the cam installed. You don’t want to go past your cams lift numbers. There’s no sense of you trying to set up geometry for .800 lift, when your only in the .600 range. Your only guessing at this by setting it up on the bench unless your using the correct dial indicators and set-up stands.
new cam is going in so I'll need to measure for pushrods. I figured I should try to get the pedestal geometry correct before doing that as trying different shims would change the pushrod length. I'm just trying to get a good idea where I'll be for the moment.
If my thinking is correct, I could use a pushrod checker to also open the valve and checker spring with the cam and head installed and fiddle around until I find the right shim and pushrod length. I just hope the pushrod length checker doesn't snap, but I can open those calves with my finger with that checker spring on.
I have a dial indicator, but I've never been smooth in using one. But I checked the geometry as best as I could measuring the lift trying to keep it exactly at .612(at the valve). I went a little over once (about .65). This is what it looked like. I used the intake valve to check the geometry which is on the left. Left (intake valve)
new cam is going in so I'll need to measure for pushrods. I figured I should try to get the pedestal geometry correct before doing that as trying different shims would change the pushrod length. I'm just trying to get a good idea where I'll be for the moment.
If my thinking is correct, I could use a pushrod checker to also open the valve and checker spring with the cam and head installed and fiddle around until I find the right shim and pushrod length. I just hope the pushrod length checker doesn't snap, but I can open those calves with my finger with that checker spring on.
I have a dial indicator, but I've never been smooth in using one. But I checked the geometry as best as I could measuring the lift trying to keep it exactly at .612(at the valve). I went a little over once (about .65). This is what it looked like. I used the intake valve to check the geometry which is on the left. Left (intake valve)
Hoping you meant .ZERO 65 (.065"), NOT .65". Decimal points and numbers immediately after ARE important, and incorrect #s spread misinformation. Just trying to be clear....
AFR heads rock. They should-Tony designed most of the porting. I had a set of 225s on a darton 427. They were the biggest/highest flowing port head available in late 2004/early '05. That motor rocked!! SO much torque!! 70 mph in 2nd gear the 315 Michelins would break loose....
One thing I was going to do if I ran roller rockers was to look into cutting the stock rocker mount bars. I feel they offer more support, reducing the amount of flex in the same plane as the rocker pivots. I never did, because I stayed with stock rockers, and I knew I'd have to figure a way to prevent the single mount from rotating. Looks like you'll have a great setup when it's up and running.....
Hoping you meant .ZERO 65 (.065"), NOT .65". Decimal points and numbers immediately after ARE important, and incorrect #s spread misinformation. Just trying to be clear....
I meant I went all the way to .65" instead of .612." So .038" over. Sorry. I should have clarified.
new cam is going in so I'll need to measure for pushrods. I figured I should try to get the pedestal geometry correct before doing that as trying different shims would change the pushrod length. I'm just trying to get a good idea where I'll be for the moment.
If my thinking is correct, I could use a pushrod checker to also open the valve and checker spring with the cam and head installed and fiddle around until I find the right shim and pushrod length. I just hope the pushrod length checker doesn't snap, but I can open those calves with my finger with that checker spring on.
I have a dial indicator, but I've never been smooth in using one. But I checked the geometry as best as I could measuring the lift trying to keep it exactly at .612(at the valve). I went a little over once (about .65). This is what it looked like. I used the intake valve to check the geometry which is on the left. Left (intake valve)
Set it up with the check springs as your doing. The adjustable pushrod is designed to work with check springs. Rocker body should be 90 degrees to the pushrod at mid lift, or in your case, about .306 lift. It’s there that you want to see the roller wheel on the rocker at about…give or take…the center of its travel on the valve head.
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Yella terra shimming 
