Patman: Motor Flush Question
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: Ft Worth, Texas
Patman: Motor Flush Question I have been reading all your posts on oil the last few days. I am a die hard Mobil 1 fan. But your comments are not based on, "I have used this stuff for 100,000 miles and never had a problem." That in itself is somewhat of an endorsement, but doing the oil analysis and research, as you do, is much more convincing. Last night I found and bought the 0w30 German made Castrol Syntec. As suggested, I found it at Autozone (all the way in Texas). My question is, do you recommend any type of engine flush when changing oil brands/weights? I have not read anything you have written about this. The guy at the Autozone said if I were going to change, especially synthetic brands, I should do a motor flush. He recomended something, but I didn't believe or listen. But the more I thought about it, the more I let it bother me. I have been running Mobil 1 10w30. I now have about 45,000 miles on my LS1 Camaro. I need to hear it straight from the experts mouth. Anything to this engine flush?
Anyone else, feel free to chime in as well. That's what our forum is all about.
Anyone else, feel free to chime in as well. That's what our forum is all about.
TECH Addict
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,593
Likes: 0
From: TEXAS
You shouldn't have to flush the engine if you are switch a synthetic for another synthetic. The amount left behind would be very small and not cause any problems. The stuff the Autozone guy was probably pushing was the Gunk 5 minute flush. Not sure if this stuff is good or bad, but I think that Autozoners get 50 cents for every one the sell this period. They occaionally have feature products that if they sell they get a little something added to their check.
TECH Resident
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 958
Likes: 0
From: Mentor, Ohio
When I used to change the oil on my old 3rd gen. F-bodies I would:
>drain all the oil
>yank the filter
>replace the filter with a cheap FRAM filter
>use 5 quarts of $.99/qt oil
>run the car for a few minutes
>turn off the car and let it sit for 10 minutes or so
>drain oil/yank filter
>re-fill with quality oil and use a good filter
I have done this process in a while because I change my oil so often now.
>drain all the oil
>yank the filter
>replace the filter with a cheap FRAM filter
>use 5 quarts of $.99/qt oil
>run the car for a few minutes
>turn off the car and let it sit for 10 minutes or so
>drain oil/yank filter
>re-fill with quality oil and use a good filter
I have done this process in a while because I change my oil so often now.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 1,451
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta
I have noticed that when I use an engine flush the oil appears to be darker and more dirty when drained. It would seem it would be a good thing to do every 25,000 miles or so, but you'll have to wait for the expert to chime in. It may do more harm than good.
It's really not accurate to judge an oil's dirt content by the color of the oil. Nothing much can really be determined from an engine oil's color unless it has coolant, etc in it.
TECH Resident
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 958
Likes: 0
From: Mentor, Ohio
I used my flushing method every 6 months or 6000 miles (which ever came first). This was back in 1992-1994 before I got my 1995 Formula with a LT1. The main reason I did the flushing was because I used non-synthetic 10w30 oil and Delco oil filters. The high performance oil filters like the K&Ns and high grade synthetic oils weren't available then. I don't know if the flushes actually helped but it sure couldn't have hurt anything as long as the motor was left running long with the cheap oil(although I only let the motor idle with no load on it).
Trending Topics
Just change over to the new oil and change it a bit sooner if it bothers you. Then change the next interval as normal. Personally, I don't think that it's {flushing between oil brand changes} needed and could actually do more harm than good depending on what is used to flush it.
Last edited by Judd; Jul 25, 2004 at 01:38 AM.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
Five Reasons the Camaro Was the Most Pivotal Player in the Pony Car Wars 2.0
Brett Foote
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 14,620
Likes: 17
From: BFE
Personally i do not like motor flushes, as it is innevetable some of that stuff will remain in the motor and dilute in the fresh new oil and contaminate it.
If you really feel your motor needs flushing, change the oil + filter then after 100>200 miles change it all again.
If you really feel your motor needs flushing, change the oil + filter then after 100>200 miles change it all again.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 7,234
Likes: 1
From: Mississauga, Ontario
I do not like solvent type motor flushes, they can do more harm than good. If you've run nothing but synthetic all along, the engine won't need a flush.
If you did have an engine you suspected might be dirty, the only flush product I would recommend is called Auto-rx. It's not solvent based, it's ester based, so it cleans slowly and safely over a 500-2000 mile period, and liquifies sludge and carries it to the filter. So this way it cannot clog oil passages. My LT1 Firebird had been neglected and it's engine was dirty, and this stuff did wonders, it quietened the valvetrain a lot and drastically improved my oil analysis results.
If you did have an engine you suspected might be dirty, the only flush product I would recommend is called Auto-rx. It's not solvent based, it's ester based, so it cleans slowly and safely over a 500-2000 mile period, and liquifies sludge and carries it to the filter. So this way it cannot clog oil passages. My LT1 Firebird had been neglected and it's engine was dirty, and this stuff did wonders, it quietened the valvetrain a lot and drastically improved my oil analysis results.
Back in the early 70's I was involved in lubrication engineering for Sun Oil Co. Then and I assume now, whenever solvent is introduced into an engine you are risking metal to metal contact and after it is drained out logically some will remain.
All motor oils be they synthetic or dino have many specifications, one of the more important ones being compatibility with other oils. We LS1 owners on balance change our oil much more frequently than necessary, particularly when it comes to synthetics. There are numerous oil test results floating around these boards that proves additive packages are far from depleted when most people change oil, particularly synthetics.
When was the last time anyone saw a dirty sludged up LS1 engine? I never have. Motor oils now and have had for many years have additives to keep the engine clean. If you change you oil and filter frequently, longevity is really being given to that engine. It took me along time but I got on the synthetic oil band wagon about 4 years ago and am a firm believer. Synthetic is the only thing that goes in my engines, Mobil 1 in particular.
All motor oils be they synthetic or dino have many specifications, one of the more important ones being compatibility with other oils. We LS1 owners on balance change our oil much more frequently than necessary, particularly when it comes to synthetics. There are numerous oil test results floating around these boards that proves additive packages are far from depleted when most people change oil, particularly synthetics.
When was the last time anyone saw a dirty sludged up LS1 engine? I never have. Motor oils now and have had for many years have additives to keep the engine clean. If you change you oil and filter frequently, longevity is really being given to that engine. It took me along time but I got on the synthetic oil band wagon about 4 years ago and am a firm believer. Synthetic is the only thing that goes in my engines, Mobil 1 in particular.
TECH Addict
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,593
Likes: 0
From: TEXAS
Originally Posted by PlainwhiteZ28
just fyi
autozoners dont get any commission
autozoners dont get any commission
They don't get commission, but they get what they call 'Spifs' which are small amounts 10cents-$1 for certain products every period. I've been paid for products like these, since I work for the Autozone corporation.
TECH Veteran
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 4,055
Likes: 1
From: Hartsdale, NY
Buying a motor oil that says synthetic on the label is NO guarantee you are using synthetic oil. The only true sythetic oil is Mobile 1, and a few others including Royal Purple... Most oils labeled synthetic are NOT!
I buy two oil filters and 6 quarts of Mobil 1 and 6 quarts of .99 K-mart oil....
I drain the old oil install and new filter, put in the cheap oil and run the motor for 10 minutes.... Then I drain out the cheap ****, change the filter again and pour in 6 quarts of fresh Mobil 1.
I would not rely too much on what Patman #1 has to offer......
I buy two oil filters and 6 quarts of Mobil 1 and 6 quarts of .99 K-mart oil....
I drain the old oil install and new filter, put in the cheap oil and run the motor for 10 minutes.... Then I drain out the cheap ****, change the filter again and pour in 6 quarts of fresh Mobil 1.
I would not rely too much on what Patman #1 has to offer......
Originally Posted by robertbartsch
I would not rely too much on what Patman #1 has to offer......
I hate relying on people that use scientific, reproducible data to make claims
, like Patman does. Mobile 1 is not the ONLY true synthetic, either.