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Hi there, pretty much my first time posting so forgive me for anything I miss. I have been looking at the Comp 54-469-11 cam for my Lq4 build. It will be going in a 65 C10, likley with a T56, As a fun street driver. In some of Richard Holdener's vids, he says that this is getting close to as big of a cam you would want to put in a 6.0. Has anyone on here used this cam, or similar? Is there really any benefit from using a slightly bigger cam? or does the drivability suffer more that the benefits? My lq4 was out of an 07 Silverado, and has fly cut pistons. Will include picture below. I'm assuming this will give me a bit more PTV clearance, and maybe more options for a cam? I plan on using the BTR 660 platinum valve spring kit.
One last question, the Comp 54-469-11 can be found on summit for $515.95, yet summit has a cam with simmilar specs, for $299.99. Will include links below. Is it really worth the extra money for the Comp? I am also not sure if the Summit cam will clear, as it is slightly larger. Any help or information is greatly appreciated. Summit cam: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...make/chevrolet Comp cam: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/c...make/chevrolet
That’s not really that big. Some cams for LS1 have run a 242/248 on a 110. If you’re looking for the BIGGEST cam you need to dig a little deeper. If you’re looking for a max effort cam you can also have a custom ground cam for what ever application you want.
Hmm, so if I were to go with the summit cam, which is a 234/248, 113 +3.5 Lsa, it shouldn't be an issue with PTV clearance? I don't necessarily want to use the absolute biggest, since this is going to be a street vehicle and I would like to have decent driveability. The motor will be going in a 65 C10, although not super heavy (probably about 3800lbs), would going with a cam this size or bigger seriously affect the low end?
Hmm, so if I were to go with the summit cam, which is a 234/248, 113 +3.5 Lsa, it shouldn't be an issue with PTV clearance? I don't necessarily want to use the absolute biggest, since this is going to be a street vehicle and I would like to have decent driveability. The motor will be going in a 65 C10, although not super heavy (probably about 3800lbs), would going with a cam this size or bigger seriously affect the low end?
Although the racers on this board will chime in to tell you differently, a cam with 15* of overlap at .050" will NOT have what most people would call decent drivability in a 3800lb vehicle. Also, it will be extremely soft on the low end torque compared to the factory cam. If you spend most of your driving time above 3000rpm, disregard my opinion. With a 6.0, I would not hesitate to drive around with a cam that size, but many people find that their big cam is not ideal for the bulk of their driving.
alright, I mean im ok if it doesn't have quite the same low rpm torque. Im used to daily driving the stock 230 i6 with a 3 speed lol. In Richard holdeners video with the Comp 54-469-11, it maintained pretty decent low end, with some good gains on the top. Im assuming the summit would be pretty close to that, since the specs are close. I just want to confirm that It wont create PTV issues. Also, I've looked but am not quite sure on what the +3.5 Lsa will affect in terms of sound, power, etc?
Hmm, so if I were to go with the summit cam, which is a 234/248, 113 +3.5 Lsa, it shouldn't be an issue with PTV clearance? I don't necessarily want to use the absolute biggest, since this is going to be a street vehicle and I would like to have decent driveability. The motor will be going in a 65 C10, although not super heavy (probably about 3800lbs), would going with a cam this size or bigger seriously affect the low end?
You always have to check PTV. You’re doing a disservice to yourself if you’re not checking. Can you get away with it? More than likely yes. I’ve gotten away from big *** cams. I had an LS1 reving out to 7200 rpm’s with 0 issues over a decade ago. I have a 3700 lbs LS based engine car that while I love me a big ole lumpy cam I’ve realized over the years that majority of my driving is done on city streets where I rarely get over 6K rpm’s. When I posted what I did I was being a smart ***. Remember that those big ole cams need reving and you’re not going to see any real power being made till after 3K rpm’s. Plus you’re going to need all the supporting mods. Good set of heads that will handle that much rpm. Remember unless money is no option longevity is what most people want out of their builds.
In a heavy car you want power made as early as possible in the rpm range so you can get that thing moving and moving quickly out the gate.
So unless you’re looking to do a max effort 6.0 do what most people with common sense do. Get a cam that will fit your every day driving that way you have usable tq and hp in the rpm range you’re going to be at majority of the time.
If you’re dead set on a max effort cam go with a max effort cam but it gets old after a while especially if majority of your time in that vehicle is on pavement not the strip.
Ok, yeah I get what your saying. I'm kinda looking to avoid the price tag on the Comp, and I think I will go with one of the Summit Pro Ls cams. Now im looking at the 8711r1 assuming it wont be an issue with PTV clearance when degreed.. After watching Richards video on the stage 4, (his was the no longer available 234/247 version), It seemed to maintain the low end pretty well and im ok with that. Now im just kind of wondering how the 113 +3.5 Lsa affects it compared to a straight up 113 Lsa. Would that be considered a wider lsa than just 113? where would that put my overlap at? Sorry if these questions sound dumb, im just trying to wrap my head around this a bit better and I really appreciate all of the responses.
Ok, yeah I get what your saying. I'm kinda looking to avoid the price tag on the Comp, and I think I will go with one of the Summit Pro Ls cams. Now im looking at the 8711r1 assuming it wont be an issue with PTV clearance when degreed.. After watching Richards video on the stage 4, (his was the no longer available 234/247 version), It seemed to maintain the low end pretty well and im ok with that. Now im just kind of wondering how the 113 +3.5 Lsa affects it compared to a straight up 113 Lsa. Would that be considered a wider lsa than just 113? where would that put my overlap at? Sorry if these questions sound dumb, im just trying to wrap my head around this a bit better and I really appreciate all of the responses.
if you look through his videos he has done a video on just LSA. He had the same cam with three different LSA and the lower the LSA the sooner the power came in.
That's a lot of camshaft for 9.4 compression. Are you planning different heads to bump the compression? Gears? Hopefully long tube headers are in the plans too. Bigger throttle body? Better intake?When the right parts are matched together for the drivers use, it's a beautiful thing. Mismatched can make driving it miserable.
You'd be much better off with the 8707R1. No ones going to be impressed with the size of your camshaft when the Pruis in the next lane bests you the first 50 yards.
Yes, I am going to be using 243 heads, longtubes, likley gears at some point, I would like to also run a tbss intake, throttle body is still to be determined. This should be a fairly solid combo for that cam?
You'd be much better off with the 8707R1. No ones going to be impressed with the size of your camshaft when the Pruis in the next lane bests you the first 50 yards.
I guess I’m not the only one 😂🤣
I’d go with higher compression smaller cam which will make more power at lower rpm’s.
Yes, I am going to be using 243 heads, longtubes, likley gears at some point, I would like to also run a tbss intake, throttle body is still to be determined. This should be a fairly solid combo for that cam?
For a fun street driver, ((especially the T56 is a 2.66 1st) that combo would be great with the 8707R1. It'll sound aggressive and pull hard.
Now if you add some 3.73-4.10 rear gears, stepping up to the 8710R1 is workable but it'll want to be shifted 6500+rpm to get the full benefit. Still be a little soggy part throttle without the gears, but liveable until the upgrade.
That 8711 wants even more compression, ported heads, lighter vehicle, 4.10s, etc. And/or more cubes.
Your throttle body will be limited to 90mm with the TBSS (92mm if you port the manifold throat out - honestly not worth the work unless it was a strip vehicle). Going bigger by using an adapter doesn't gain anything if the manifold throat is smaller than the throttle body bore.
Im still yet to find a transmission, so it may not be the T56, but rather the T56 family, mabye Tkx, Tko, Magnum, etc. I guess im just not really getting how the 8711r1 would be so terrible down low. Richard ran it on a 5.3 and it was an improvement over the LS9 cam everywhere. He said himself that the Ls9 cam has a soft low-end, but is it really that bad? im also assuming that a 6.0 would handle the low-end better than the 5.3? About compression, assuming it wouldn't cause PTV issues, I wouldn't be against running a thinner head gasket to give a bit more of a compression bump. Might have forgot to add, but just thought I better say that this truck really wont be doing any "truck" things like towing, hauling a load, etc.
Im still yet to find a transmission, so it may not be the T56, but rather the T56 family, mabye Tkx, Tko, Magnum, etc. I guess im just not really getting how the 8711r1 would be so terrible down low. Richard ran it on a 5.3 and it was an improvement over the LS9 cam everywhere. He said himself that the Ls9 cam has a soft low-end, but is it really that bad? im also assuming that a 6.0 would handle the low-end better than the 5.3? About compression, assuming it wouldn't cause PTV issues, I wouldn't be against running a thinner head gasket to give a bit more of a compression bump. Might have forgot to add, but just thought I better say that this truck really wont be doing any "truck" things like towing, hauling a load, etc.
You will notice Holdener and most of the other youtube people rarely make a pull that starts below 3000rpm. This is fine if you are running a high stalled auto, but gives you no idea whatsoever what the motor will be like to drive with a stick shift. Also, bigger overlap cams require much more tuning finesse to get them to idle properly. You really have to dial things in to keep them from stalling out when you engage a/c, or load them with a tight turn on a power steering vehicle, or even increase alternator load when electric cooling fans engage. You have to get your timing just right to avoid bucking at low speeds in gear. You never see ANY of that on an engine dyno video.
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Biggest cam for Lq4? 
