speed_INC_LS1

I have a 1999 camaro ss that has a ls6 intake, slp headers, slp loud mouth exhaust (with no muffler), a mild cam and a tune. It was dynoed by the pervious owner and made 375rwhp. I have gotten very used to this amount of power and need more. I have been doing a lot of research on a heads and cam build and I am able to do the work myself. The question is what cam and heads? My goal is to have around 500rwhp and my budget is around $5000. I have been looking into Texas speed heads and cam packages and was wondering if anyone has any experience using them? I’d prefer the cam to have a LSA around 111 or 112 as I want that nice chop at idle. That being said I know there are more important things relevant to cam specs besides the LSA.

My other mods already installed include:
-BMR sub frame connectors
-Strange engineering Dana s60
-Stage 2 clutch

stockA4

Put the LS1 on the shelf and save it they're getting harder to find.

I swap long blocks in these cars through the hood. It's really not that difficult but then again I autocross and I don't like messing with my alignment lol.

For 5 grand You could do a crazy good long block, more displacement is what you want. If you did an iron block 6.0L build over a more expensive aluminum block you could then spend all your money on displacement upgrades, ported heads, and a good cam which would easily meet or exceed your goals

grinder11

iTrader: (1)

Having the 6 speed will help when it comes to more radical cams on the street. But if you want 500whp from 346 cubes, it's going to have lope, for sure!! I agree with the above post about more cubic inches. If I were you, I'd try to stay with an aluminum block, unless spraying or power adding. Even then, you'd have to spray a lot, or go with big boost, before any trouble would manifest itself. Try to save for an LS3 block, if you possibly can. I just dont see a lot of difference between a 346 and a 364. 18 cubes can't hurt, but its not enough difference to scream "its the only way to go." Not only that, if you go with a cast iron block, the extra 100lbs will negate some of that power gain. If you must go to a 364, go aluminum, if possible. You’ll be happier in the long run with the aluminum block. Keep in mind a 500whp 346 OR 364 with enough cam to reach the 500 mark, assuming no fancy heads here, will make it much more temperamental. You'll need a damn good tuner, for sure. Hope this helps......

stockA4

I agree a stock LS2 or 3 would be a NICE upgrade over the LS1. I'm just saying an LQ4 block is an ok place to start if you want 500 horsepower and good driveabillity. I had my machine shop do mine 0.065" over and I put flat top LS3 pistons in it opening up all kinds of good rec ports cylinder head options down the road. A. Stroker crank is definitely within his budget as well If you gave me 5 grand you better bet I'd have more than a 400" engine

I have actually autocrossed my LQ4 A4 z28 verse my LS1 m6 z28 on the same exact wheels and tires and I'm telling you guys the average driver is not going to get a faster lap with the aluminum block over the iron one. It's really not a big deal, It's well within the cars capacity to run an iron block. I mean how many people are marching around saying how terrible their 93 to 97 LT1 F cars handle? I used to have a 97 LT1 M6 Z28 and I still feel that was the best handling 4th gen of all the ones I've had!

02EBC5Z06

iTrader: (1)

A set of tfs 215 or 220 heads, bit larger cam (may need flycutting), compression at the very least 11:1, spinning it a decent amount over 7k.

xcomunic8d

You have just asked one of the hardest questions on a LS build.

I have used Texas Speed on my LS boat swap. Those guys are beyond great. Very knowledgeable, very helpful and their commitment to testing is great. I didn’t buy their heads due to budget and shipping issues. In your case you may want to go with rec port heads for power up high in rpm band. I went with my cathedral port heads (243’s) that were ported and am running a high lift truck cam stage 2. For me it was about a dance of tq down low and decent power up high in my boat. I would call those guys and get some input from them directly.

I bought my tsp kit from Michigan motor sports and got a nice kit for less through them vs tsp directly. There are lots of other cams out there but tsp was great for me.

here’s a video on head selection. The key is getting all of your stuff to work together: displacement, piston shape, intake, etc. I have a suspicion that cam, springs, porting of heads, and a better intake/tb will get you there. Although you will have some chop (which is music to my ears).

grinder11

iTrader: (1)

AFR 225s, if still made. Also an LS6, FAST, or MSD intake.

Bspeck82

5k wont get you to 500 wheel in an ls1. save for a procharger.

Bspeck82

also, for around 1500 bucks you could get a nitrous kit and safety items. no retune required. power when you need it, easy bolt on stuff. Will easily make over 500.

Razor

Best advice given based on budget.

Find a used pro charger set up. Done.

Bob570

My Camaro had a Texas Speed top end, and it ran like a raped ape. I never had it on a dyno, but it hung with and beat multiple cars that were right around 500 whp, and they were lighter than my Camaro too.

My friend had a C5 Z06 at the time with Kooks headers and a P1SC, and we were door to door from 40-150, we never really went faster than that, but we ran our cars probably 100 times over that summer, no joke.

I had a Torquer V2 cam, PRC 225 heads, a Fast 102, LS7 MAF, 1-7/8 TSP headers with a Flowmaster 4" Y-pipe with a cutout and a Magnaflow muffler, shifting at 7000 rpm. It was on a remote tune from Pat G and it drove great, especially after I went to 3.73 gears.

If I were to do it again, I would probably go with the newer Torquer V4, Cam Motion Titan 5, or BTR stage 3. Or if you're wanting an even bigger cam, I would go with a Cam Motion Titan King LS1 cam, BTR stage 4, or maybe Texas Speeds Tsunami V2, but it definitely wont drive as nice.

low2001gmc

iTrader: (148)

I wouldn't get caught up in power numbers, but ET numbers.

A friend with an Ls1 in a full weight 2000 Camaro z28, with a 230-236, 110 lsa cam, some of my hand ported 243s milled .020, fast 102 set up, headers, u/d pulley, 3600 stall and 4.10s in 10 bolt only made 423 rwhp but ran 10.80s at 124 mph.

grinder11

iTrader: (1)

Your post is truth. It sounds like the car you speak of is set up nearly as close to perfection as possible. Nobody races dynos, except maybe rich bench racers, who probably never go to a drag strip or HPDE. Its all about who gets there first, NOT who has the most power. A car with a properly set up suspension and average driver will usually beat a good driver with more power and a poorly set up suspension......

GMRL

I have a 97 Z28 M6 on factory 16" wheels, I thought I was crazy for thinking the same thing.
I also own 2 LS1 cars on factory 17s, one car an SLP car. While they do drive well for what they are. I still think the 97 feels more nimble and has better feedback.

stockA4

You're not crazy, think about it. A wider tire on any given car is only more beneficial once you've reached the cars tractive limits on the narrow tire. So on the f car the only place you'll see any benefit to those wider 275 vs 245 section width tires is at the limit of grip in a corner where the wider tire would or could offer more grip and you'd be able to carry more speed through the corner, otherwise it's just added unsprung weight for the shocks to deal with. Most people don't realize is that wider wheels are a mod all in themselves and putting a wider wheel on the same tire spreads and better supports the contact patch getting the most out of the tire. If you want to really enjoy the 4th gen chassis and all of its nimbleness and glory, it would highly recommend getting a set of nice extreme performance summer 235 or 245 section width tires for your 17x9 wheels, It will blow you away, much sharper and more nimble than the 245 on a 16x8

G Atsma

I'm SO glad someone (besides me..) sees the logic of a wider wheel to fully use the potential of a tire's width instead of more tire on the same wheel.
Even on a pickup, I found just using the stock tires on an inch wider rim (from 8" to 9") resulted in a bit crisper handling with no downside.

wlink14

If it were me, and you wanted to keep the LS1 block, I would get a set of aftermarket small bore small chamber rectangle port heads to keep compression ratio decent and LS3 intake, along with a cam with specs with something like the Texas speed stage 2 LS3 cam to keep some reasonable manners. That would get you pretty close with a nice exhaust system and would easily be within budget if you did the installation. It would blow your mild LS1 out of the water.
Heads $3000 including the offset rockers?
ls3 intake $500
cable throttle body $150
cam $350
tune $750
misc gaskets and hardware $250
Total : $5000

FU_I_AM_UltraZ

iTrader: (20)

500whp with stock cube LS1/6... You're looking at very pricey heads and not a daily driveable camshaft with 1.875in primary long tubes, true duals, LSXR or better intake and a great tuner! And all the lil bolt ons lile ud pulley and e-w/p etc. Best bet.. Find a LQ9 (has same floating flat-top pistons as LS2), get some 821 LS3 heads and port them, beefy cam like btr LS3 stg4 to tsp f35 types or custom cam, FAST LSXR intake and all the bolt-ons.. That's what it takes to make 500whp n/a thru a t56...

Bspeck82

It can be done, get some small bore ls3 heads, solid roller cam. Decent amount of compression. It would probably drive great but may require higher octane fuel.

slothman

400-450whp seems more doable, if you want 500-600 ur gonna need boost