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Maybe I'm missing something here, but why even tell them it's a swapped motor? Don't all LS engine long blocks look identical? Unless it's easier to pass by doing so, I'd avoid telling them any more than necessary.....
Sorry Grinder, I missed your question. If you look back he mentioned a Toyota MR2 and I assumed we were only talking about LS engines. In that case, I just ***umed he was talking about an Engine Swap. Engine swapped vehicles play by a different set of rules and must first go to a State certified Referee where they will inspect everything... IF they a deemed legal done, they will be Certified and given a new inspection sticker. You know what happens when we ***ume...
But you are correct, The less you give up the less they know. Other than Obvious casting numbers, they have no way of knowing which engine block is in the vehicle or what's inside it for that matter.
Intake charge with big overlap gets blown out the exhaust valve, so I can see how your vacuum leak theory falls into play.
I didn't understand this at first but I think now i get it. The "leak" of intake air is actually through the combustion chamber when both valves are open and out the exhaust. Pretty funny actually!
I once saw an article in HRM about a vehicle that had a rather large amount of overlap. According to the article, the cam had so much overlap that it created its own EGR!!!
Yeah, whenever anyone talks about running the GM Hot Cam, I feel like they're cheating themselves. IMHO, there are 2 kinds of Hot Cam owners. Owners who've removed them in favor of a modern grind, and those who will......
there are some really impressive results on here with that cam. Around 350tq at 3k rpms and 390hp with stock heads in an ls1. Very solid overall performer. There's a reason Tony's spec'd something close. Brian Tooley has seen great results by decreasing intake duration and increasing exhaust duration. Better low end from the smaller intake and better top end from the bigger exhaust duration.
I bet if Cali emissions weren't a factor, Tony would have dropped the lsa to something closer to the hot cam. Just curious what you dont like about its specs? Lift is low but thats intentional to work with stock springs. Even ls1 springs work with the hot cam and its conservative but proven lobes.
I know 405 at the crank is stock. I'd like to make 400 to the wheels.
My c5 Z06 LS6 makes 415whp with just headers, LS9 cam, and FAST102/90mmTB. Before the LS9 cam I was 394whp.
With ported heads and a little more compression you should be even higher I would bet. Your cam is similar in @0.050 duration, but more lift and tighter LSA. The LS9 cam killed any bottom end I had with the stock LS6 cam so I think yours will make better power across more RPM as well.
My c5 Z06 LS6 makes 415whp with just headers, LS9 cam, and FAST102/90mmTB. Before the LS9 cam I was 394whp.
With ported heads and a little more compression you should be even higher I would bet. Your cam is similar in @0.050 duration, but more lift and tighter LSA. The LS9 cam killed any bottom end I had with the stock LS6 cam so I think yours will make better power across more RPM as well.
Do you have to have the dyno graphs before and after the ls9 cam?
I agree that it will make over 400whp. Maybe 420. Its a top end cam with a bit later of a intake valve close. Low to mid 40s depending on the advance. Did he say how many degrees advanced? With no advance, its a 44.5, so with 2.5 degrees of advance, its the same as the z06 cam at 42. Will peak between 6200 and 6500 depending.
Hp is not the most important thing. Power where you drive it is. I share this video a lot because it is so good at showing where different cams make power. I dont drive to red line much. So a truck cam is better for me.
If you drive to 6 or 7k often and you drag race, then a top end cam is for you.
I recommended the btr hot rod cam (217/23x, .619, .607, 114) to you in post 22. That is very close to the cam Tony spec'd and its almost the same as the btr stage 1 cam in that video. Its a top end cam but pretty good everywhere. Definitely not a low end grunt cam though. A top end cam works well with your heads. You might want to consider the TPIS mod to your ls6 intake which bumps the opening to 90mm and then you can run a bigger throttle body and maf. You should pick up power and torque everywhere with that mod but especially at the top end.
I agree that it will make over 400whp. Maybe 420. Its a top end cam with a bit later of a intake valve close. Low to mid 40s depending on the advance. Did he say how many degrees advanced? With no advance, its a 44.5, so with 2.5 degrees of advance, its the same as the z06 cam at 42. Will peak between 6200 and 6500 depending.
Hp is not the most important thing. Power where you drive it is. I share this video a lot because it is so good at showing where different cams make power. I dont drive to red line much. So a truck cam is better for me.
If you drive to 6 or 7k often and you drag race, then a top end cam is for you.
I recommended the btr hot rod cam (217/23x, .619, .607, 114) to you in post 22. That is very close to the cam Tony spec'd and its almost the same as the btr stage 1 cam in that video. Its a top end cam but pretty good everywhere. Definitely not a low end grunt cam though. A top end cam works well with your heads. You might want to consider the TPIS mod to your ls6 intake which bumps the opening to 90mm and then you can run a bigger throttle body and maf. You should pick up power and torque everywhere with that mod but especially at the top end.
I will have to look at the cam card once I receive it. I do not recall the exact specs. I'll look into the intake mod and larger throttle body.
