Best heads for 500hp?
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From: Mississippi
I love the talks but at the end of the day its all in the combo. I cant preach that enough. Ive studied and wrote down every combo good or bad ive seen going back to the GMHT magazine. Just because a guy buys a set of Mast/AFR etc head dont mean he can bolt those on and run 10s.
Ive seen ALOT of combos have great heads and a poorly chosen cam run like poop crap. This happens alot but very few dont wont to admit it.
Ive seen ALOT of combos have junkyard 243 heads and a Great spec cam out perform the higher dollar combo.
This thread goes back to my cookbook thread as all kinds of parts and combos that was PROVEN to run well. Remember guys its all in the recipe.
Ive seen ALOT of combos have great heads and a poorly chosen cam run like poop crap. This happens alot but very few dont wont to admit it.
Ive seen ALOT of combos have junkyard 243 heads and a Great spec cam out perform the higher dollar combo.
This thread goes back to my cookbook thread as all kinds of parts and combos that was PROVEN to run well. Remember guys its all in the recipe.
Exactly. This is why a max build 346 will beat my 427. My LS7 isn't a max effort build. It's a 1,250 mile drive-EACH WAY-from Michigan to Florida. So I spend 2,500+ miles each year on the freeway, on just that one trip alone. I drove my first 427 in 2006 about 7,000 miles in 2 weeks when I drove this same C5 from Michigan to California and back. I averaged 25mpg on that trip. No problems, even in 120° heat. One day, it was 118° in Baker, California at 10:30 A.M.!!! Sure, I coulda built a much more rad version, and shot for the 9s. But I would've hated to drive it those 7,000 miles. At my age, your priorities are different. I learned a long time ago that anyone who has the fastest/quickest bike/car wont have it for long. Theres always someone that comes along who is faster. So I lost interest, quickly. Too much time, too much $$$$. But that's just me......
I check the valves when i change the oil. I've only made a couple minor adjustments. They're set at zero lash cold.
It likely has less valvespring on it than your 427 does.
Sure, a bigger sidewall helps. But put the big sidewall on a 26" tire and it'll stress the axles more than a big sidewall on a 27. I guess it really is time to go. I'm not trying to get you to see everything my way, but man, when you make up your mind, nobody is gonna change it. I have made some valid points, and you've thrown every one of them under the bus. Carry on.......
My moto is Free the Tq!
Now i will admit a 7.25 is more suitable......but these 5.5's were free so i used them.
Idk......you keep moving the goal posts
It’s also predictable how these types of discussions go. I call bs no way you run those times. Then it’s proven and detailed how it was done. Then omg that doesn’t work. Yes it does here is why. Oh bs anyone faster than me must be a race car then my car is a street car lmao. Every time lol. Anyone faster than me doesn’t have street car it’s a race car lol. Every time.
I will take my high rpm average power over your torque all day of the week.
Hell, another Rob I know has gone 9 flat at 150 in his SBE LS7 (stock cam too @grinder11
) in his C6Z.
Hell, another Rob I know has gone 9 flat at 150 in his SBE LS7 (stock cam too @grinder11
) in his C6Z.A car with a clutch that needs replaced every year isn't my definition of a street car. If you have enough money to replace a clutch every year more power to you, but this isn't 99% of registered and inspected street cars.
Using the same logic, why not replace that heavy 6 speed with a 4 speed M22 Rock Crusher? There has to a weight savings if someone can fab a way to make it work.
Using the same logic, why not replace that heavy 6 speed with a 4 speed M22 Rock Crusher? There has to a weight savings if someone can fab a way to make it work.
I put it in my car back in 08. Then we put one on lazerlemon's 5gen and c6.
So idk what the percentage of street cars it falls in. But if you're overly concerned about longevity definitely don't go to the track with any car and you probably shouldn't keep it past the warranty let alone mod it......because little to no mods come with even the guarantee of fitting/working properly.
What an interesting read lol Man the disbelief in here is unreal. 2004 5.7 in my 2000 trans am with 4.56 gears in the 10 bolt made 450 rwhp with gmpp heads and grand am cup cam. It made peak power at 6600 with the ls6 intake and junk mid length headers. In 2016 my bolt on ls3 made 470/468 in a 2015 m6 camaro 1le full weight with used nt05 drag radial went 11.5@120. Then my bolt on ls3 vette made 467/453 tri y headers and turning a power steering pump and 4.10s went 10.5@131. I recently took my bolt on 2015 Z06 with stock manifolds through stock exhaust 842/760 went 9.0@148 and had a best mph of 150. There is no reason a ls6 c5 z06 couldnt run 10.0 bolt ons. I think for the most part is most people are upset because they dont understand how to make a car accelerate. Key is knowing how to "free" a car up. My z06 is 3840 me in it and I run my AC the entire pass lol Good luck to you in your 500 rwhp quest as it is obtainable if your willing to put in the work around the engine too.
because bias sidewal
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From: Mefis
I see, well my peak torque is @ 5100 but what I don't know is what RPM I should be shifting at to keep it near the peak torque curve. I think Pat set the rev limter to 7,200 but I've yet to try and spin it that high and I don't believe anything good would come from it either.
https://www.blocklayer.com/rpm-gear
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You guys scared OP, way to go.
You can do that with stock heads and a mild cam now days, they key is details
I had well over 100 passes on my 4.10 10bolt before I retired it, probably 150, lots of those in the mid to low 1.60s behind a M6.
For those saying 500whp 5.7L is easy, clearly it isnt cause every HCI would be 500whp, seems the majority of them fall 20-30whp short with a fairly wild cam. If OP is expecting to install a on the shelf set of heads, cam and hopefully a fast or MSD intake and make 5 to the wheels hes in for a bad time, im in a similar situation, but i think ill get alot closer then others.
If the OP is still here, my recommendation would be to contact Tony Mamo. Tony had a 346 with AFR heads and a 224/228 cam in a 6 speed C5Z. It went low 11s@125mph.....Over 20 years ago......
For those saying 500whp 5.7L is easy, clearly it isnt cause every HCI would be 500whp, seems the majority of them fall 20-30whp short with a fairly wild cam. If OP is expecting to install a on the shelf set of heads, cam and hopefully a fast or MSD intake and make 5 to the wheels hes in for a bad time, im in a similar situation, but i think ill get alot closer then others.
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Verdad Gallardo So a 346 ci motor can put down 500 rwhp from 93 octane without any octane booster with Gen IV connecting rods and Mahle pistons, some mild worked over 243's with stock valves and a ported MSD intake manifold, a small LLSR camshaft with lower than .660 lift valvesprings and with compression around 12:1.
Assuming twenty percent drivline loss it would make 600 fwhp and 20% might be a little on the high side. In order to get as much power as possible to those back tires we have a face plated T56 with a lightweight flywheel, I assume an aluminuim driveshaft but it could be carbon fiber for all I know and all of this transfered to a beefed up 10 bolt with some 3.90's, maybe even the older style 8.5 size ring gear 10 bolt which is somewhat stronger and turning some lightweight wheels and tires, basically anything you can do to lighten up the weight on the car and driveline.
I would love to see this engine on an engine dyno before being dropped into the car because I'm still on the fence about this engine producing those kind of numbers from 93 octane alone but hey what do I know.
Now when you factor in all of these changes to the driveline and drop it into a car that has lost all those unnecessary items that add weight to the car and get the suspension dialed in to plant the tires to the pavement it's going to haul ***, easily breaking into the 10's on motor BUT is the engine really producing 500 rwhp? It's been proven you don't need 500 rwhp in order to make a 10 second pass. The real formula for acceleration is an engine that can spin those RPM's quickly, a lightweight car with a lightweight rotating mass and a propery set up suspension that plants the tires to the pavement and someone who's willing to go out there and find the weak link..
That's it in a nutshell..
Assuming twenty percent drivline loss it would make 600 fwhp and 20% might be a little on the high side. In order to get as much power as possible to those back tires we have a face plated T56 with a lightweight flywheel, I assume an aluminuim driveshaft but it could be carbon fiber for all I know and all of this transfered to a beefed up 10 bolt with some 3.90's, maybe even the older style 8.5 size ring gear 10 bolt which is somewhat stronger and turning some lightweight wheels and tires, basically anything you can do to lighten up the weight on the car and driveline.
I would love to see this engine on an engine dyno before being dropped into the car because I'm still on the fence about this engine producing those kind of numbers from 93 octane alone but hey what do I know.
Now when you factor in all of these changes to the driveline and drop it into a car that has lost all those unnecessary items that add weight to the car and get the suspension dialed in to plant the tires to the pavement it's going to haul ***, easily breaking into the 10's on motor BUT is the engine really producing 500 rwhp? It's been proven you don't need 500 rwhp in order to make a 10 second pass. The real formula for acceleration is an engine that can spin those RPM's quickly, a lightweight car with a lightweight rotating mass and a propery set up suspension that plants the tires to the pavement and someone who's willing to go out there and find the weak link..
That's it in a nutshell..
It depends on goals. Sure you can swap roller rockers on the car and spend $600+ and get 10 hp but the vast majority of people stick with the stock rockers because of potential failure of aluminum roller rockers. Seems that Yella Terra and TSP are the two best choices. Same goes with some of the other items. A ported MSD might gain 15 hp for $1500+. If you are racing in a particular class then spending the money might make sense.
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What are best heads for high rpm cam ls1 with 16k miles? Current tune has fast 102 with ported worked 241 heads. Put down 422rwhp @12.8 afr. Advanced induction is hard to get ahold of. I was looking at Frankenstein 240cc m115 heads. As they look to flow well but are pricy. Ai look to be only heads in that range other than afr or mass heads which are even more. Let me know your thoughts as I will be swapping intake for a msd 103 as well which I hear out runs the fast 102 when you hit 5k rpm. Looking to get close to 500rwhp.
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It depends on goals. Sure you can swap roller rockers on the car and spend $600+ and get 10 hp but the vast majority of people stick with the stock rockers because of potential failure of aluminum roller rockers. Seems that Yella Terra and TSP are the two best choices. Same goes with some of the other items. A ported MSD might gain 15 hp for $1500+. If you are racing in a particular class then spending the money might make sense.
Then you want some rpm......so you probably don't want the heavy *** valves and big *** springs that come in aftermarket heads. But some stock hollow stems and beehives/ conicals will rpm better. Especially with a hydraulic cam.
If anything the **** i used is the norm.....it's factory ****.
So a 346 ci motor can put down 500 rwhp from 93 octane without any octane booster with Gen IV connecting rods and Mahle pistons, some mild worked over 243's with stock valves and a ported MSD intake manifold, a small LLSR camshaft with lower than .660 lift valvesprings and with compression around 12:1.
Assuming twenty percent drivline loss it would make 600 fwhp and 20% might be a little on the high side. In order to get as much power as possible to those back tires we have a face plated T56 with a lightweight flywheel, I assume an aluminuim driveshaft but it could be carbon fiber for all I know and all of this transfered to a beefed up 10 bolt with some 3.90's, maybe even the older style 8.5 size ring gear 10 bolt which is somewhat stronger and turning some lightweight wheels and tires, basically anything you can do to lighten up the weight on the car and driveline.
I would love to see this engine on an engine dyno before being dropped into the car because I'm still on the fence about this engine producing those kind of numbers from 93 octane alone but hey what do I know.
Now when you factor in all of these changes to the driveline and drop it into a car that has lost all those unnecessary items that add weight to the car and get the suspension dialed in to plant the tires to the pavement it's going to haul ***, easily breaking into the 10's on motor BUT is the engine really producing 500 rwhp? It's been proven you don't need 500 rwhp in order to make a 10 second pass. The real formula for acceleration is an engine that can spin those RPM's quickly, a lightweight car with a lightweight rotating mass and a propery set up suspension that plants the tires to the pavement and someone who's willing to go out there and find the weak link..
That's it in a nutshell..
Assuming twenty percent drivline loss it would make 600 fwhp and 20% might be a little on the high side. In order to get as much power as possible to those back tires we have a face plated T56 with a lightweight flywheel, I assume an aluminuim driveshaft but it could be carbon fiber for all I know and all of this transfered to a beefed up 10 bolt with some 3.90's, maybe even the older style 8.5 size ring gear 10 bolt which is somewhat stronger and turning some lightweight wheels and tires, basically anything you can do to lighten up the weight on the car and driveline.
I would love to see this engine on an engine dyno before being dropped into the car because I'm still on the fence about this engine producing those kind of numbers from 93 octane alone but hey what do I know.
Now when you factor in all of these changes to the driveline and drop it into a car that has lost all those unnecessary items that add weight to the car and get the suspension dialed in to plant the tires to the pavement it's going to haul ***, easily breaking into the 10's on motor BUT is the engine really producing 500 rwhp? It's been proven you don't need 500 rwhp in order to make a 10 second pass. The real formula for acceleration is an engine that can spin those RPM's quickly, a lightweight car with a lightweight rotating mass and a propery set up suspension that plants the tires to the pavement and someone who's willing to go out there and find the weak link..
That's it in a nutshell..
Fp t56 is not gonna show any power on a dyno.
I dyno'd on my 18s in full street trim. I didn't want any dyno trickery. I woulda liked to have tried some things but the starter went out on the dyno......so it ate up my time that day. I was gonna pull the air cleaner, bypass the ps and remove the ac belt. ........but didn't get to. That and some e85 and 570whp could be a possibility.
There was no octane boost in the car.
My buddy that built it at fletcher made hp said he mostly see's between 75 and 90 hp drop from his engine dyno to chassis dynos. So 548 + 75= 623 crank. I usually say 630 to shoot for the middle of his numbers.
It depends on goals. Sure you can swap roller rockers on the car and spend $600+ and get 10 hp but the vast majority of people stick with the stock rockers because of potential failure of aluminum roller rockers. Seems that Yella Terra and TSP are the two best choices. Same goes with some of the other items. A ported MSD might gain 15 hp for $1500+. If you are racing in a particular class then spending the money might make sense.
A msd is likely worth more than 15hp out past 7k rpm. And since hp is really only high rpm tq......well you probably need to go past 7k rpm to get to 500whp.
This 5.7 is a poster child for a budget engine. Nothing in it that can't be had.
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In my opinion I'd get a small bore ls3 head. LLSR cam, I got mine from tick but cam motion would be my other choice. I'm happy with my crower rockers. Lightweight intake valves, 12:1 compression and tight quench. Ported fast manifold with medium length runners. Should get you close to 500. Depends on dyno, tires, drive line and such. You'll know by the weight and mph mostly.
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In my opinion I'd get a small bore ls3 head. LLSR cam, I got mine from tick but cam motion would be my other choice. I'm happy with my crower rockers. Lightweight intake valves, 12:1 compression and tight quench. Ported fast manifold with medium length runners. Should get you close to 500. Depends on dyno, tires, drive line and such. You'll know by the weight and mph mostly.
Should be over 500whp at that point. Would be a pretty max effort 5.7. Now kinda wish I considered small bore ls3 VS these PRC CNC 220 I bought. But they fit my budget.
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From: Wilmington, De
At over $3k for the bare heads, I'd probably just go for the Mast small bore LS3s for $4k assembled. I also see that Mast now has an as-cast small bore LS3 for the 5.3 bore. That's intriguing.
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2017
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From: Plano Texas
What cam I guess you didn't read my reply.......or look at my signature.
My 5.7 makes 548whp 444wtq on pump gas with ooollldddd gmpp cnc 243 heads that i cleaned up a little. So yea there are heads out there that can do it. They're just a gm casting.
I made 451whp 423wtq with oe heads and a stock cam....just a bolt on ls6.
But there's more to a combo than the cam or heads. 500whp with a 5.7 isn't that difficult these days.
Look up Darthv8r sbe thread.
My 5.7 makes 548whp 444wtq on pump gas with ooollldddd gmpp cnc 243 heads that i cleaned up a little. So yea there are heads out there that can do it. They're just a gm casting.
I made 451whp 423wtq with oe heads and a stock cam....just a bolt on ls6.
But there's more to a combo than the cam or heads. 500whp with a 5.7 isn't that difficult these days.
Look up Darthv8r sbe thread.