derek_silvy

All I have left is putting the timing chain cover, balancer, water pump, radiator, valve covers, starter, and electrical connections back on.

I have a few questions I need answered so I can feel comfortable about putting the other 15% back together.
1) How can I know if I pinched the pickup tube oil ring?
2) If I have rotated the crank several times by hand and nothing in the valve train fell apart (lol), does this mean that nothing is gonna come apart @ start up?
3) I didn't get a new crank bolt, do I really need one? If so, why?
4) I've seen before that people boil the crank balancer and it just slides on the crank snout. Is this true, and if so - couldn't it damage the crank or front oil seal?
5) What can I expect when I start it? Some people say it makes noises and stuff... like what? How do I know a normal noise from a "things falling apart" noise?

Thanks a lot guys!

-Derek

pdd

iTrader: (3)

get a new crank bolt since they stretch. the old bolt is already stretched. when u first start the car metal will be rubbing metal till the oil pump pumps the oil to all the metal parts. maybe for 2 seconds max then it should be ok.

glennhl

How can you tell if the O-ring is pinched? Use a small mirror on a stick and look all around the tube where it goes into the pump. If it's pinched there will be a small portion of it sticking out.

Yes, use a new crank bolt. I put mine on with a longer bolt that I bought from NAPA along with a really large washer. Then I completed the assembly by pulling it the rest of the way on with the old bolt.

BuckeyeROC

iTrader: (7)

I'm right where you are. I have my pulley in the oven right now at 200 degrees. It's a March w/ fluid in it, so I didn't want to take it past 200 degrees. I'll let you know how it works.

Definitely get the bolt like the others said.

As far as I know, you'll only find out if the o-ring is pinched if your oil pressure is really low after several seconds on startup.

BuckeyeROC

iTrader: (7)

Oven did not work for me at all. I probably didn't get it hot enough, but I wasn't going to take the chance with the fluid in there. I had a longer bolt and washers I bought earlier and they worked great, no problems.

glennster

iTrader: (1)

Lube the o-ring and watch it go together slowly,you should be OK.You can re-use the crank bolt,its not a stretch bolt.The pulley should go on far enough to get quite a few threads on the bolt,my ASP does.I capped the front install off by stopping at the pulley and finished the valvesprings.when the covers and coilpacks were on I left them unplugged and cranked it over and after 10 seconds the OP guage went to 30 pounds.I plugged the coils on and fired the motor,it got 60 pounds right away and had no ticking.I shut it off and finished the front install and radiator,warmed it up and all was good.

HumpinSS

iTrader: (1)

THE CRANK BOLT CANNOT BE REUSED


Get new one

glennster

iTrader: (1)

Bigger letters don't make it so.Calm down and actually look at the bolt,it uses a stretch type tightning technic but its NOT a stretch bolt.

Grimes

iTrader: (3)

Install the flywheel and balancer on all
applications as follows:
. Apply threadlocking compound
(GM part number 12345382 or
equivalent) to the flywheel attaching
bolts.
. Install the flywheel attaching bolts
and tighten them in steps to the
specified torque.
. Install the balancer using J 41665
(figure 9-15).
. Use the old bolt to seat the balancer,
then check the balancer for proper
installation (figure 9-16). Finish by
installing a new balancer bolt and
tighten to the specified torque/angle.
(Note that any time the balancer bolt
is removed, it must be replace with a
new one.)
~
J 41665-2
J 41665-1
Figure 9-15, Crankshaft Balancer Installation
(All Applications)

This is from the actual ls1 rebuild manual from GM

This is from the actual ls1 rebuild manual from GM

derek_silvy

Awesome! Thanks a lot guys!

So basically, I can leave the water pump, radiator, and valve covers off and crank it with the starter and should see oil pressure? Then I can plug the coils in, let the motor fire, and should then be able to determine if I will see full pressure or not?

Grimes

iTrader: (3)

If you just want to assemble everything, just pull the fuel pump fuse and crank it over (watching for oil pressure). this way you can prime it too; just before the real start up.

P Mack

iTrader: (6)

I didn't see pressure when cranking after the cam swap but after the engine started it went to 60 psi instantly. I don't know if it has something to do with power not going to the guages during cranking or what. If you put the o-ring on carefully you will probably be fine.

derek_silvy

I slid the lubed o-rind on the pickup tube, lined up the grear drive and the mounting bolts, pushed the pickup tube down, and seated it in there.

Steve Bryant

iTrader: (1)

The current issue (or the one before that) of Chevy High Performance dealing with the various cam/head/intake combo's for the LS1 says that the balancer bolt is not the throw away stretch design but it should have a new coating of blue locktite on the threads.

Before actual start up, I recommend that you leave the spark plugs out of their holes, remove the fuel pump fuse and spin the engine for ten or fifteen seconds several times (very briefly the first time and listen to everything carefully). It will make some mechanical sounds, but you should not be hearing anything that sounds like metal to metal contact, like a valve to a piston. Remember you've verified this by turning it through some revolutions by hand, so don't get too nervous. By spinning it through a little bit, the oil pump helps pre-lube things and feeds some oil to the valve lifters. Disconnecting the fuel pump prevents the cylinder walls from being washed down with raw gas.

Steve

WEASEL

This crank bolt argument always irritates me. My opinion is this...the friggin' bolt costs all of $3 from any GM dealership parts department.

The people replacing them are usually installing $1000 worth of parts, OR MORE, at the same time.

WHY? WHY? WHY would anyone try to skimp on a $3 part when the failure of an old bolt could potentially cost soo much more?

hourang

iTrader: (6)

yeah and if you buy the $35 gasket kit for a cam swap from tsp it comes with a new bolt anyway.

4u 2 nv

iTrader: (29)

yeah i put a new bolt on my crank pulley also. i actually skipped on the GM part and bought a ARP bolt for only like 15 bucks i think.

Black Z/28

This is a very informative thread. I'll be doing my cam soon and I keep picking up hints and techniques (I'm surprised no one has barfed up the ole 'use the search engine' line).


You're right! I've always wondered about this myself- why cheap out on an inexpensive bolt?

Zach@Texas-Speed

iTrader: (7)

be sure and roll it over a few times w/ the coil packs disconnected to get oil up to the top of the engine, ive done several cams and some make noise and some dont....keep a good eye on the oil when you first start it up, if you double checked everything you should be alright

Inspector12

iTrader: (29)

Yeah that whole disconnect the coil pack or the fuel pump fuse is not what I believe in but you have to do what you think is best. I believe if you are starting a fresh never run motor that these procedures could benifit you in some way as in priming the pump etc... but there should be a small film of oil left behind and you should have used some kind of lube when putting it back together so I am one of the crank it up and let it do its thing. The starter can't turn the motor over nearly as fast as the motor running can and it will build presure instantly in all the cam swaps I've done they have came up instantly. If it was all new maybe I would say to turn it over and let it prime the pump etc... New bolt is cheap as everyone has said. Good luck it sounds as if you are on the down hill side!!