Installing a stroker kit
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From: Milwaukee, WI
Installing a stroker kit Can anyone tell me how difficult it is to install a stroker kit in an LS1 or LS6 if the engine is out of the car and on a stand? Is there a site on this procedure or some type of a write up? Never worked on the bottom end of the car so any info would help. If it is something I should stay away from what is the average price of an install from a shop? Would still like to learn though.
You will most likely need to clearance the bottom of the bores for the stroke. Also you should send the blockout to get machined, honed & align honed, possibly decked. Make sure that you mock everything up first so you know that everything fits. Once you are done with that you should be smooth sailing. Also make sure to check all of your clearances.
Thanks,
Chris
Thanks,
Chris
Chris,
Thanks for your response. This is important information for the community interested in internal engine modifications. I'm an engineer and a former diesel truck mechanic myself and I'd like to amplify your recommendations a bit and see if you concur with them.
1. The long block should be cleaned, disassembled and inspected during disassembly. The inspection should include looking for abnormal wear patterns like a spun or eroded bearing, leaking head gaskets, wear patterns on moving parts. I could go into a lot of detail here, but I won't in this summary.
2. The castings (heads and block) should be inspected for cracks and warper prior to any machining.
3. The cylinder deck planes should be parallel to the crankshaft axis and of equal length. If not, they should be machined (surfaced) to make them so.
4. The crank main bearing should be reassembled and torqued to the engine and align honed to factory specs or to a standard bearing oversize if simply honing isn't adequate.
5. The Camshaft bore should be checked and align honed if necessary.
6. The cylinders should be honed to size with a torque plate as a minimum and as a final step no matter what is being done to enlarge the bore.. With an iron block, depending on the overbore, the cylinder wall thickness may need to be checked prior to boring (.030" over is probably always safe, but more than that, it should probably be sonically (sp?) tested for wall thickness). Re-sleeving of aluminum blocks is a whole issue unto itself, and I won't go there in this summary. Note individual pistons need to be assigned to individual cylinders and the final honed diameter of the cylinder needs to match the clearance requirements for each piston. Note, Does number 8 piston clear the reluctor wheel adequately?
7.The Rotating Assembly (Crank/Pistons/Rods and maybe flywheel and front pulley) needs to be balanced (either pre-balanced) or by a shop that is skilled in balancing (not all shops are, get some references).
8. The rings need to be fitted to the individual cylinders (file to the minimum gap or slightly larger).
9. All of the parts should be thoroughly cleaned again before reassembly.
10. Lubricate all parts before assembly.
11. Take your time. Ask questions. Don't work if you're too tired, mistakes are more expensive than you can really afford.
The other aspects of engine rebuilding, I'll leave to another day. However, since the question is being asked and there is occasional confusion on what to do and not to do, I decided to write-up a brief summary.
Comments please.
Steve
Thanks for your response. This is important information for the community interested in internal engine modifications. I'm an engineer and a former diesel truck mechanic myself and I'd like to amplify your recommendations a bit and see if you concur with them.
1. The long block should be cleaned, disassembled and inspected during disassembly. The inspection should include looking for abnormal wear patterns like a spun or eroded bearing, leaking head gaskets, wear patterns on moving parts. I could go into a lot of detail here, but I won't in this summary.
2. The castings (heads and block) should be inspected for cracks and warper prior to any machining.
3. The cylinder deck planes should be parallel to the crankshaft axis and of equal length. If not, they should be machined (surfaced) to make them so.
4. The crank main bearing should be reassembled and torqued to the engine and align honed to factory specs or to a standard bearing oversize if simply honing isn't adequate.
5. The Camshaft bore should be checked and align honed if necessary.
6. The cylinders should be honed to size with a torque plate as a minimum and as a final step no matter what is being done to enlarge the bore.. With an iron block, depending on the overbore, the cylinder wall thickness may need to be checked prior to boring (.030" over is probably always safe, but more than that, it should probably be sonically (sp?) tested for wall thickness). Re-sleeving of aluminum blocks is a whole issue unto itself, and I won't go there in this summary. Note individual pistons need to be assigned to individual cylinders and the final honed diameter of the cylinder needs to match the clearance requirements for each piston. Note, Does number 8 piston clear the reluctor wheel adequately?
7.The Rotating Assembly (Crank/Pistons/Rods and maybe flywheel and front pulley) needs to be balanced (either pre-balanced) or by a shop that is skilled in balancing (not all shops are, get some references).
8. The rings need to be fitted to the individual cylinders (file to the minimum gap or slightly larger).
9. All of the parts should be thoroughly cleaned again before reassembly.
10. Lubricate all parts before assembly.
11. Take your time. Ask questions. Don't work if you're too tired, mistakes are more expensive than you can really afford.
The other aspects of engine rebuilding, I'll leave to another day. However, since the question is being asked and there is occasional confusion on what to do and not to do, I decided to write-up a brief summary.
Comments please.
Steve
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From: harrisburg, pa
Get Chris at APE to build you a stroker shortblock..he can sell you the parts to. It will be cheaper in the long run. I put mine together (first one) and it wasnt easy...lots of tools and time. I got a sense of accomplishment to but I would have messed up if I didnt have a buddy that knew his ****. You can do a search on me and see all the **** I went through posted. Its those things that shouldnt happen that take the fun out of it.
Get a service manual and a trustworthy machine shop...and lots of tools...if you want to do it yourself.
Get a service manual and a trustworthy machine shop...and lots of tools...if you want to do it yourself.
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From: Milwaukee, WI
I was thinking about buying an LS6 block, Lunati rotating assembly and having it all machined and put together at a shop then get it shipped to me were I can do the rest myself. What would something like this usually cost? Minus parts of course since I would have them shipped to the shop? Thanks for the replies as well.
My $0.02 - I am in the process of building a 383 stroker. I had originally planned to outsource the machine work only do all the assembly myself. After reading, re-reading, and re-reading again the post by SAM98WS6, I started to question if i really wanted to take the chance of missing some expensive little detail.
I'm having HPE perform my machine work and asembly of the bottom end. All in all, it was only a few hundred dollars more to have them assemble the bottom end. Cheap insurance in my book.
I'm having HPE perform my machine work and asembly of the bottom end. All in all, it was only a few hundred dollars more to have them assemble the bottom end. Cheap insurance in my book.
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Engine building isn't rocket science, I built my first sbc in highschool autoshop when I was 15. Ran great. But unless someone experienced is helping, I wouldn't learn on a LS1. Only because parts are so expensive.
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Originally Posted by 11 Bravo
Engine building isn't rocket science, I built my first sbc in highschool autoshop when I was 15. Ran great. But unless someone experienced is helping, I wouldn't learn on a LS1. Only because parts are so expensive.
start practicing on an old SBC or SBF from a junk yard or something, not a ride you need to depend on.
Originally Posted by HAMRHEAD
So what is the average cost of having the rotating assembly installed in a block minus parts since they are supplied?
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Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Albuquerque, NM
I gotta agree on #11 being the important one, too. I would add good pre-planning to the mix, it's bad to have early items affect future plans.
I had some small block assy experience on Olds and Chevy motors from HS. Once I decided to tackle the LSx truck motor build I got on this site and asked, asked, and asked again. I was also limited in my geographic location for experienced builders. In the end I don't think I saved too much over a pre-built long or short block BUT did have the satisfaction of a DIY job. BTW, it is running well short of the computer tuning.
There are soooo many good LSx builders out there now, most on this site as sponsors and/or for advice. I definitely took advantage and appreciated all the suggestions!
I had some small block assy experience on Olds and Chevy motors from HS. Once I decided to tackle the LSx truck motor build I got on this site and asked, asked, and asked again. I was also limited in my geographic location for experienced builders. In the end I don't think I saved too much over a pre-built long or short block BUT did have the satisfaction of a DIY job. BTW, it is running well short of the computer tuning.
There are soooo many good LSx builders out there now, most on this site as sponsors and/or for advice. I definitely took advantage and appreciated all the suggestions!
Originally Posted by Steve Bryant
Chris,
Thanks for your response. This is important information for the community interested in internal engine modifications. I'm an engineer and a former diesel truck mechanic myself and I'd like to amplify your recommendations a bit and see if you concur with them.
1. The long block should be cleaned, disassembled and inspected during disassembly. The inspection should include looking for abnormal wear patterns like a spun or eroded bearing, leaking head gaskets, wear patterns on moving parts. I could go into a lot of detail here, but I won't in this summary.
2. The castings (heads and block) should be inspected for cracks and warper prior to any machining.
3. The cylinder deck planes should be parallel to the crankshaft axis and of equal length. If not, they should be machined (surfaced) to make them so.
4. The crank main bearing should be reassembled and torqued to the engine and align honed to factory specs or to a standard bearing oversize if simply honing isn't adequate.
5. The Camshaft bore should be checked and align honed if necessary.
6. The cylinders should be honed to size with a torque plate as a minimum and as a final step no matter what is being done to enlarge the bore.. With an iron block, depending on the overbore, the cylinder wall thickness may need to be checked prior to boring (.030" over is probably always safe, but more than that, it should probably be sonically (sp?) tested for wall thickness). Re-sleeving of aluminum blocks is a whole issue unto itself, and I won't go there in this summary. Note individual pistons need to be assigned to individual cylinders and the final honed diameter of the cylinder needs to match the clearance requirements for each piston. Note, Does number 8 piston clear the reluctor wheel adequately?
7.The Rotating Assembly (Crank/Pistons/Rods and maybe flywheel and front pulley) needs to be balanced (either pre-balanced) or by a shop that is skilled in balancing (not all shops are, get some references).
8. The rings need to be fitted to the individual cylinders (file to the minimum gap or slightly larger).
9. All of the parts should be thoroughly cleaned again before reassembly.
10. Lubricate all parts before assembly.
11. Take your time. Ask questions. Don't work if you're too tired, mistakes are more expensive than you can really afford.
The other aspects of engine rebuilding, I'll leave to another day. However, since the question is being asked and there is occasional confusion on what to do and not to do, I decided to write-up a brief summary.
Comments please.
Steve
Thanks for your response. This is important information for the community interested in internal engine modifications. I'm an engineer and a former diesel truck mechanic myself and I'd like to amplify your recommendations a bit and see if you concur with them.
1. The long block should be cleaned, disassembled and inspected during disassembly. The inspection should include looking for abnormal wear patterns like a spun or eroded bearing, leaking head gaskets, wear patterns on moving parts. I could go into a lot of detail here, but I won't in this summary.
2. The castings (heads and block) should be inspected for cracks and warper prior to any machining.
3. The cylinder deck planes should be parallel to the crankshaft axis and of equal length. If not, they should be machined (surfaced) to make them so.
4. The crank main bearing should be reassembled and torqued to the engine and align honed to factory specs or to a standard bearing oversize if simply honing isn't adequate.
5. The Camshaft bore should be checked and align honed if necessary.
6. The cylinders should be honed to size with a torque plate as a minimum and as a final step no matter what is being done to enlarge the bore.. With an iron block, depending on the overbore, the cylinder wall thickness may need to be checked prior to boring (.030" over is probably always safe, but more than that, it should probably be sonically (sp?) tested for wall thickness). Re-sleeving of aluminum blocks is a whole issue unto itself, and I won't go there in this summary. Note individual pistons need to be assigned to individual cylinders and the final honed diameter of the cylinder needs to match the clearance requirements for each piston. Note, Does number 8 piston clear the reluctor wheel adequately?
7.The Rotating Assembly (Crank/Pistons/Rods and maybe flywheel and front pulley) needs to be balanced (either pre-balanced) or by a shop that is skilled in balancing (not all shops are, get some references).
8. The rings need to be fitted to the individual cylinders (file to the minimum gap or slightly larger).
9. All of the parts should be thoroughly cleaned again before reassembly.
10. Lubricate all parts before assembly.
11. Take your time. Ask questions. Don't work if you're too tired, mistakes are more expensive than you can really afford.
The other aspects of engine rebuilding, I'll leave to another day. However, since the question is being asked and there is occasional confusion on what to do and not to do, I decided to write-up a brief summary.
Comments please.
Steve
i would agree with what you have listed above. It basically speels out everything that is needed to put one of these together, correctly. Nice job.
