MTI's new G1 cam, worth the swap? Help?
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Sweet Cheeks
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MTI's new G1 cam, worth the swap? Help?
I now have a G5X3 with untouched heads, but want to go with heads as soon as I see some numbers on the AFRs and TEAs etc... My question is, with the LG cam being hard to boost compression with(PV clearance), would it be better to run a smaller cam like the G1 or so with nice heads and compression, or will I still be able to kick *** with the LG cam and lower compression heads?
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
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Sweet Cheeks
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I wanted to hit 10s on motor, before spraying it for 10s, but now I"m thinking of just spraying it cam only because of the clearance issues. Hows the G5X3 on spray? What do you think? Thanks.
#4
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Originally Posted by Dear John
I wanted to hit 10s on motor, before spraying it for 10s, but now I"m thinking of just spraying it cam only because of the clearance issues. Hows the G5X3 on spray? What do you think? Thanks.
But in theory, if you could, G5X3 + 100 wet should get you there, if you hook.
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#12
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Originally Posted by Dear John
So are you saying the G1 would be better on spray than my current G5X3 114 lsa?
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Sweet Cheeks
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Originally Posted by 94form2000z
I think the x3 would be better, because of the same reasons mentioned. Watch your p/v clearance though.
#15
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Sounds good, but word of caution! Start small 50 shot and once you get the tune right, then go up to 75 and so on. Don't get gready, N20 can be treatcherous if not monitored carefully. Autotap on the trial runs if you can, that will make your achievement so much easier and less painfull.
#17
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If you dyno tune then your tune will only be good for the amount of nitrous you dynoed with. If you want to go bigger, you would have to adjust accordingly.
IMO, I would dynotune for 100 shot, then get MAFT/timing tuner to adjust at the track. It is an extra $300.00 or so but well worth the expense when your motor depends on it, plus it makes adjustments so easy, you could do 1 pass at 100 shot, come to the pits, adjust a couple of ***** and you're good to shoot a 150.
IMO, I would dynotune for 100 shot, then get MAFT/timing tuner to adjust at the track. It is an extra $300.00 or so but well worth the expense when your motor depends on it, plus it makes adjustments so easy, you could do 1 pass at 100 shot, come to the pits, adjust a couple of ***** and you're good to shoot a 150.
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See, I don't know anything about tuning. I'd have to have it jetted for 150 and have them tune it for me. Quick question, how much will a nitrous tune affect my motor passes? On average?
#19
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Well, effects might vary depending on tune used, immagine pulling timing 2 degrees above 3000rpm and a little richer.
The easiest way is MAFT/Timing tuner. I think MSD window has timing capabilities for nitrous and MAFT will richen the mix above certain rpms.
It is really easy to use.
Basically you run a normal N/A tune and with MAFT/Timing box you adjust just for the times you use N20.
Some people just tune for 100 and reduce only 1 degree timing (3000rpm+) & add some race fuel to compensate.(you should pull 2 degrees for every 50 hp shot.)
That all changes when you go bigger than 100 shot.
IMO you don't Sk**W a hooker without a condom, and you don't use N20 without tuning lessons. Just learn it, it is not a brain killer.
The easiest way is MAFT/Timing tuner. I think MSD window has timing capabilities for nitrous and MAFT will richen the mix above certain rpms.
It is really easy to use.
Basically you run a normal N/A tune and with MAFT/Timing box you adjust just for the times you use N20.
Some people just tune for 100 and reduce only 1 degree timing (3000rpm+) & add some race fuel to compensate.(you should pull 2 degrees for every 50 hp shot.)
That all changes when you go bigger than 100 shot.
IMO you don't Sk**W a hooker without a condom, and you don't use N20 without tuning lessons. Just learn it, it is not a brain killer.