arp crank bolt....what do i torq it down to or is it still touq to yield?
#2
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Joe, Use your old stock bolt to seat the balancer, use ARP moly lube on the washer, and red loctite on the threads. Then torque to 250 ft. lbs. Thats it, done!
Torque to yield is for stock GM crank bolts only.
Torque to yield is for stock GM crank bolts only.
#5
Do a search, there is loads of info on this.
The Tq does not change just because you are using a non-stretch bolt IMO.
Do yourself a favour and get a long bolt to seat the pulley, then use the new one to fix it.
Do it properly. You DO NOT want to be stripping either thread in the end of the crank!
Good luck.
The Tq does not change just because you are using a non-stretch bolt IMO.
Do yourself a favour and get a long bolt to seat the pulley, then use the new one to fix it.
Do it properly. You DO NOT want to be stripping either thread in the end of the crank!
Good luck.
#6
TECH Senior Member
Originally Posted by JMX
Seat your pulley back onto the snout of the crankshaft as best you can by hand. If you purchased a longer crank bolt which I *highly* recommend, start threading this in now and pull the pulley on about a 1/4 or 1/2 an inch and remove the longer bolt. Use your old stock crank pulley bolt to pull the pulley onto the crankshaft until the bolt seems to get impossible to turn. Grab your biggest torque wrench and attempt to torque that bolt down to 240lb/ft. I have always stopped at 200lb/ft on my installs and I've never had a problem, so if you can't hit 240 (which I never have), don't worry about it.
#7
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Thread Starter
well why i was asking was with the stock bolt they tell you after you seat the pulley totally they say torque it to 37lb/ft then turn it another 140 degrees and i know you sould not do that with the arp bolt
thats why i asked what the new torque should be
i dont have a stock pully to use because i just took the asp balancer off for the first time because my motor blew and i want to do it right this time because i dont know if it was done right last time
can i seat the pulley with the arp bolt then just torque it to 150lb/ft or is it 250 lbft?
thanks for all your help guys
thats why i asked what the new torque should be
i dont have a stock pully to use because i just took the asp balancer off for the first time because my motor blew and i want to do it right this time because i dont know if it was done right last time
can i seat the pulley with the arp bolt then just torque it to 150lb/ft or is it 250 lbft?
thanks for all your help guys
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#9
TECH Enthusiast
As my man Rudy said above, seat it with the factory bolt.
Remove factory bolt, install ARP Crank Bolt.
Torque to 250ft/lbs. Do it in steps though.
I usually go 100-150-200-250.
And last but certainly not least, don't forget to breath!! The 200-250 is a toughy
Remove factory bolt, install ARP Crank Bolt.
Torque to 250ft/lbs. Do it in steps though.
I usually go 100-150-200-250.
And last but certainly not least, don't forget to breath!! The 200-250 is a toughy
#12
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Originally Posted by Paulz2820
dude i'd call arp and ask them
1-800-826-3045 is there number
1-800-826-3045 is there number
#15
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Originally Posted by smask04C5
The spec that I used with my 234-2503 damper bolt was 190 ft#, printed on instruction sheet.
Bingo, I called ARP today and they told me 190 ft-lb, with their moly lube on the threads and washer. The use of Red loctite will likely result in an unremovable bolt later. I pinned the crank, and am going to use the lube per the ARP instructions.
#16
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Ed Blown Vert, I pinned my hub and used a small amount of sealant under the 1/4" washer supplied with the ARP bolt, red loctited the threads and torqued to 190ft#'s. To remove bolt when you want to make the car go faster by adding more stuff, heat the head of the bolt just enough to break the mechanical bond and bolt will come out with surprisingly little effort.
#18
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Personally, I think adding the key/pin is about the best thing you can do while it is apart. The ATI kit I used was very high quality and I also used the alignment tool for the pinning process for centering the front cover, so in effect it becomes dual purpose and very useful.
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Here are the torque specs listed in the reference book I have:
Crankshaft balancer bolt:
1st pass use old bolt....240 lb.-ft.
2nd pass use new bolt..37 lb.-ft.
Final pass...140 degrees
I have to assume these specs are for GM OEM fasteners.
GM LS-series OEM fasteners are ONE TIME ONLY use parts. They CANNOT be re-used. OEM fasteners do use the torque to yield clamping method, which torques the bolt to a specified lb.-ft. rating, and then the fastener is tightened to its final spec by rotating the fastener to a specific number of degrees.
No matter which method is used to tighten a fastener, the fastener will stretch. This is why GM chose the torque to yield method for their LS-series engines. The fasteners, while good, are cheap, and the torque to yield method provides precise, accurate clamping pressure. The downside is that the OEM fasteners stretch more than an aftermarket fastener, and are good for one use only.
Aftermarket fasteners like ARP are vastly stronger, and stretch less. These fasteners are properly tightened using good, old-fashioned torque specs. They do not need additional twisting to a certain number of degrees after initial torquing. DO NOT USE GM OEM TORQUE TO YIELD SPECS WHEN USING AFTERMARKET FASTENERS. As stated above, consult the fastener manufacturer for the torque specs required for your specific application.
And don't forget, if you're installing a fastener into a blind hole, be sure to blow out the hole first using compressed air. If there is any liquid (oil, coolant, water, etc., it doesn't matter...liquid is not compressible) in the bottom of the bolt hole, it will have nowhere to go when the bolt tries to compress it, and the result will be a cracked block.
Crankshaft balancer bolt:
1st pass use old bolt....240 lb.-ft.
2nd pass use new bolt..37 lb.-ft.
Final pass...140 degrees
I have to assume these specs are for GM OEM fasteners.
GM LS-series OEM fasteners are ONE TIME ONLY use parts. They CANNOT be re-used. OEM fasteners do use the torque to yield clamping method, which torques the bolt to a specified lb.-ft. rating, and then the fastener is tightened to its final spec by rotating the fastener to a specific number of degrees.
No matter which method is used to tighten a fastener, the fastener will stretch. This is why GM chose the torque to yield method for their LS-series engines. The fasteners, while good, are cheap, and the torque to yield method provides precise, accurate clamping pressure. The downside is that the OEM fasteners stretch more than an aftermarket fastener, and are good for one use only.
Aftermarket fasteners like ARP are vastly stronger, and stretch less. These fasteners are properly tightened using good, old-fashioned torque specs. They do not need additional twisting to a certain number of degrees after initial torquing. DO NOT USE GM OEM TORQUE TO YIELD SPECS WHEN USING AFTERMARKET FASTENERS. As stated above, consult the fastener manufacturer for the torque specs required for your specific application.
And don't forget, if you're installing a fastener into a blind hole, be sure to blow out the hole first using compressed air. If there is any liquid (oil, coolant, water, etc., it doesn't matter...liquid is not compressible) in the bottom of the bolt hole, it will have nowhere to go when the bolt tries to compress it, and the result will be a cracked block.