jerflash

question is in the title

thanks in advance

joe

RUDY@AP-ENGINEERING

Joe, Use your old stock bolt to seat the balancer, use ARP moly lube on the washer, and red loctite on the threads. Then torque to 250 ft. lbs. Thats it, done!

Torque to yield is for stock GM crank bolts only.

gollum

iTrader: (1)

Recent magazine article says 150 foot pounds. GMHTP I am sure.

ls1290

iTrader: (20)

The only time I have heard that the crank bolt should/can be torqued to 150# is if the crank has been pinned or keyed.

Tommy Tucker

Do a search, there is loads of info on this.
The Tq does not change just because you are using a non-stretch bolt IMO.
Do yourself a favour and get a long bolt to seat the pulley, then use the new one to fix it.
Do it properly. You DO NOT want to be stripping either thread in the end of the crank!
Good luck.

PREDATOR-Z

hope this helps

jerflash

well why i was asking was with the stock bolt they tell you after you seat the pulley totally they say torque it to 37lb/ft then turn it another 140 degrees and i know you sould not do that with the arp bolt
thats why i asked what the new torque should be

i dont have a stock pully to use because i just took the asp balancer off for the first time because my motor blew and i want to do it right this time because i dont know if it was done right last time

can i seat the pulley with the arp bolt then just torque it to 150lb/ft or is it 250 lbft?

thanks for all your help guys

PREDATOR-Z

Ok, Hmmmm read my last post again.

Uthinkso

As my man Rudy said above, seat it with the factory bolt.

Remove factory bolt, install ARP Crank Bolt.

Torque to 250ft/lbs. Do it in steps though.

I usually go 100-150-200-250.

And last but certainly not least, don't forget to breath!! The 200-250 is a toughy

jerflash

ok guys thank alot haha

Paulz2820

iTrader: (1)

dude i'd call arp and ask them

1-800-826-3045 is there number

cyphur

iTrader: (10)

um i'm pretty sure P-Z and jmx know what they're talkin about. These are exactly the steps I'll be usin to install mine, I know for a fact they'll work out perfectly.

smask04C5

iTrader: (1)

The spec that I used with my 234-2503 damper bolt was 190 ft#, printed on instruction sheet.

Ed Blown Vert

iTrader: (2)

What about with an ATI Damper keyed??

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

Bingo, I called ARP today and they told me 190 ft-lb, with their moly lube on the threads and washer. The use of Red loctite will likely result in an unremovable bolt later. I pinned the crank, and am going to use the lube per the ARP instructions.

smask04C5

iTrader: (1)

Ed Blown Vert, I pinned my hub and used a small amount of sealant under the 1/4" washer supplied with the ARP bolt, red loctited the threads and torqued to 190ft#'s. To remove bolt when you want to make the car go faster by adding more stuff, heat the head of the bolt just enough to break the mechanical bond and bolt will come out with surprisingly little effort.

Ed Blown Vert

iTrader: (2)

Mine is keyed. So will torque it to 190. Thanks.

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

Personally, I think adding the key/pin is about the best thing you can do while it is apart. The ATI kit I used was very high quality and I also used the alignment tool for the pinning process for centering the front cover, so in effect it becomes dual purpose and very useful.

bichin95redta

Here are the torque specs listed in the reference book I have:

Crankshaft balancer bolt:
1st pass use old bolt....240 lb.-ft.
2nd pass use new bolt..37 lb.-ft.
Final pass...140 degrees

I have to assume these specs are for GM OEM fasteners.

GM LS-series OEM fasteners are ONE TIME ONLY use parts. They CANNOT be re-used. OEM fasteners do use the torque to yield clamping method, which torques the bolt to a specified lb.-ft. rating, and then the fastener is tightened to its final spec by rotating the fastener to a specific number of degrees.

No matter which method is used to tighten a fastener, the fastener will stretch. This is why GM chose the torque to yield method for their LS-series engines. The fasteners, while good, are cheap, and the torque to yield method provides precise, accurate clamping pressure. The downside is that the OEM fasteners stretch more than an aftermarket fastener, and are good for one use only.

Aftermarket fasteners like ARP are vastly stronger, and stretch less. These fasteners are properly tightened using good, old-fashioned torque specs. They do not need additional twisting to a certain number of degrees after initial torquing. DO NOT USE GM OEM TORQUE TO YIELD SPECS WHEN USING AFTERMARKET FASTENERS. As stated above, consult the fastener manufacturer for the torque specs required for your specific application.

And don't forget, if you're installing a fastener into a blind hole, be sure to blow out the hole first using compressed air. If there is any liquid (oil, coolant, water, etc., it doesn't matter...liquid is not compressible) in the bottom of the bolt hole, it will have nowhere to go when the bolt tries to compress it, and the result will be a cracked block.

Grimes

iTrader: (3)

I called up ARP a couple months ago. with blue loctite I was told to go to around 240 lb-ft final pass