PCV On Dry Sump Setup
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Well, I am finally getting my motor ready for the 5 stage Barnes dry sump pump and was just thinking about the PCV system. There should never be positive crankcase pressure running 4 scavenge sections in the oil pan. What, if any, mods should I make to the PCV system. The motor is a 99 SS motor and currently has the factory 99 LS1 intake on it. I will eventually be switching to the LS6 or other intake, but until then it will be the stocker.
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I have been told by some very knowlegable sources that in addition to the Stock cubes LS1s, the superstrokers are even known for sucking a ton of oil thru the pcv system and was recommened that install a large billet catch can made by Greddy which my mechanic just installed last weekend and i hope it proves worth while. Here is a link regarding the Greddy catch can i went with on my new MTI 427 Motor (just installed last week) and how it was hooked up on my C5.
http://www.2phast.com/porsche/Corvette/catchcan.htm
Hope this helps.
MTI 427 C5 Roadster
http://www.2phast.com/porsche/Corvette/catchcan.htm
Hope this helps.
MTI 427 C5 Roadster
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If you are running a true drysump, you want to cap all the PCV stuff. Weld them preferably, because a 4/5 stage Barnes setup will pull in the range of 10-14 in. of vacuum. Any leaks will reduce the vacuum effect <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
What Pan did you go with? <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />
What Pan did you go with? <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />
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take an AIR pump from the factory system and reverse it to where it sucks. then hook it up so one of the evac holes on the valve covers. then plug off the other two remaining tubes for the PCV. Then on the other side of the pump run a little plastic tank with a breather on top of it.
this will creat one hell of an evac system
this will creat one hell of an evac system
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by G2 LS1:
<strong> If you are running a true drysump, you want to cap all the PCV stuff. Weld them preferably, because a 4/5 stage Barnes setup will pull in the range of 10-14 in. of vacuum. Any leaks will reduce the vacuum effect <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
What Pan did you go with? <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">This is actually what I was thinking. I'll have to take a look at my motor and see what all this would entail.
BTW, I went the cast ARE Corvette pan. A bit on the cashy side, but a very nice piece. I think if I had it to do over again, I would have gone with the stock car pan so I could have notched it out to fit the engine a bit lower in the chassis. It still fits in there pretty well considering it is an 84 3 series BMW <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
See pics at:
http://www.drysump.com/pan1a.htm
<strong> If you are running a true drysump, you want to cap all the PCV stuff. Weld them preferably, because a 4/5 stage Barnes setup will pull in the range of 10-14 in. of vacuum. Any leaks will reduce the vacuum effect <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
What Pan did you go with? <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">This is actually what I was thinking. I'll have to take a look at my motor and see what all this would entail.
BTW, I went the cast ARE Corvette pan. A bit on the cashy side, but a very nice piece. I think if I had it to do over again, I would have gone with the stock car pan so I could have notched it out to fit the engine a bit lower in the chassis. It still fits in there pretty well considering it is an 84 3 series BMW <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
See pics at:
http://www.drysump.com/pan1a.htm
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There should be no breather on a drysump setup on the motor itself. Your breather is going to be on the tank near the fill cap, or run a remote breather off the tank itself to prevent oil from coming out.
What is the purpose of the car? Drag? Roadrace? open track? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Cool]" src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" />
What is the purpose of the car? Drag? Roadrace? open track? <img border="0" title="" alt="[Cool]" src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" />
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The car is being built for a combination of street use and for competition in One Lap of America. So it will see drag racing, road racing, circle track and if the last couple years are any indication, some dirt track too <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />
I do plan to drive it on the street weekly though. <img border="0" alt="[pimp]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_pimp.gif" />
The tank breather is going to be in the trunk, (tank in back seat) and will be in the form of a T bulkhead fitting. The "T" will be vertical with the top going to a vent and the lower going to an overflow catch can.
I do plan to drive it on the street weekly though. <img border="0" alt="[pimp]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_pimp.gif" />
The tank breather is going to be in the trunk, (tank in back seat) and will be in the form of a T bulkhead fitting. The "T" will be vertical with the top going to a vent and the lower going to an overflow catch can.