LSONE

iTrader: (1)

so i'm doin my cam swap, and everything's going fine untill i drop the oil pump bolt into the oil pan. after relieving my anger i decide to think of a way to fix this problem w/o dropping the k member. so i unbolted the oil pan and dropped it as far as i could. i figure i can get a mirror, a flashlight, and a magnet to get it out. i would take the drivers side header off and go in that way (i could feel more room on that side than the other) is this an ok idea? i DONT want to drop the k-member, as i've heard its a long and time consuming process. will this work, or is there an easier way?

99ssleeper

iTrader: (98)

A pen magnet is wahat I used. It shouldn't have rolled far. I dont think it can get all the way to the deepest part of the pan.

I just had a small pen magnet and slid it in the front and across a few times. I thought for sure I was screwed.

I since learned from my mistake and have pushed paper towels into the pan before taking that bolt out....it's a stupid design....

LSONE

iTrader: (1)

wOOt! i just did a little searching and read i can take the sensor out of the passenger side of the pan and get it that way. it did roll all the way down to the bottom but i'm gonna try this now.

tomaSS

iTrader: (1)

I used needle nosed pliers (to hold the bolt and push it into the hole) and a gearwrench (to tighten the bolt) to get the pick up tube bolt back in. Also, I stuffed a rag in the pan just in case I dropped the bolt. Good luck.

LSONE

iTrader: (1)

alright, well i got a big magnet and i cant catch the nut. so i figure if i jack up the engine i can move it enough to get it out. what point do i jack the engine up from after removing the motor mounts? i've heard the transmission bellhousing is the place to do it, is this correct?

99ssleeper

iTrader: (98)

You could just leave it...if needle bearings cant get sucked into anyplace, I dont think the bolt would either....

It will probably get stuck to the drain plug sooner or later and I think it is even small enough to come out the plug hole. You might want to think about pouring something in the front of the oil pan and see if you can flush it over to the drain plug side...

I dont know....that situation is a bitch!

93octane

I wouldn't leave it in there. I'd keep trying with the pen magnet. If you can't get it that way, drop the k-member and then the oil pan. This is a great time to replace the stock k-member with an aftermarket one.

Boostaholic

iTrader: (4)

BTW dropping the KMember is a 6 bolt (+wheel lugs) job, very easy and quick to do.

LSONE

iTrader: (1)

why do i have to take the wheels off? and i would love to replace my k-member and everything else under there, but i have like $18.00 to my name right now

TheBlurLS1

iTrader: (8)

if you get a HUGE magnet, like one out of a big speaker or somthing, you can hold it under the pan, and slide the bolt around by holding the magnet on the outside. you can slide it over to your most accessible spot, then get it out with a pen magnet. you might be able to jack up one side of the car more than the other (at an angle) to get it to move to the side.

have you ever heard of a bore-scope? its a long fiber-optic cable with a light on the tip (like a doctor uses), and an eye piece with a focus screw on the other end, see if someone has one and you can stick it in the oil level sensor hole and look around. we got one to look around when my dipstick tube broke off in the motor, works pretty good and would work great in your situation.

i'm another advocate of leaving it in there , save up some money, buy a tubular k-member, and put it in. there are some pro-fab k-members for sale on ebay that arent too much money. i HIGHLY doubt it will come out of the oilpan drain. the hole necks down after the threads and we couldnt even get the bore-scope in mine. and if that bolt is a 10mm like i think it is, forget about it.

Boostaholic

iTrader: (4)

Because you have to get the wheel off to get in there to the bolts, you can do it with the wheels on i think but its a big PITA, quicker to just take them off.

You will need a 18mm socket for the 3 kmember bolts, 2 long and 1 short on each side.

LSONE

iTrader: (1)

i already unbolted the motor, all i need to do now is drop the k member. this is the part i'm a little worried of... i'm gonna do it tomarrow, thanks for your help everyone.

LSONE

iTrader: (1)

ya those k member bolts are on tight as hell, i just tried to loosen one, and thats when i realized i was too tired to continue

Boostaholic

iTrader: (4)

You will want to suspend / jack the motor up (Alternator bracket works) after you drop the kmember (And possibly pry it down a little) to get the oil pan out.

Bet you won't drop a bolt down THERE again will you? Don't feel bad, I dropped my slave cylinder bleeder plug into my bell housing once when I was due to be at the track in 1 hour.

93octane

Get some rest and try it tomorrow after breakfast.

99ssleeper

iTrader: (98)

Note to self: Dont drop oil pump bolt in oil pan.

Turo

iTrader: (23)

i did the same thing. i also had a pen magnet attached to the bolt and restong on the oil pan as "backup" safety. luckily, i didint need the pen magnet, i got the bolt on there just with the gear wrench and the pliers.

ps. you might have it already but if you dont, get yourself a 10mm ratcheting wrench, they are a MUST-OWN tool for any LS1 guy IMO.