What should I get? 382 stroker or 388 all bore?
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What should I get? 382 stroker or 388 all bore?
The car is a street car with ocassional passes at the track. which would be a better performance set up? 382 stroker or 388 all bore? I want a mild street car that run mid to low 11's with a good idle. Help me choose between the two?
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Originally Posted by destroyerSS
Try getting in touch with NOGO cause i think his motor is an all bore and if i'm thinking right he had problems at one time. I would go stroker
destroyerSS what town do u live in....i live right by goshen
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Originally Posted by 1984camaroz28
Problems with what the sleves? if u have a good shop do the sleeving u wont have a problem
destroyerSS what town do u live in....i live right by goshen
destroyerSS what town do u live in....i live right by goshen
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Go All Bore
If you want to compare the graphs look @ MTI's site . I would go all bore there is just no comparison . A stroker makes more torque @ lower rpm's but if there the same displacement the all bore will make just as much torque just at a higher rpm equalling more POWER . A stroker gives the piston more leverage against the crank but an all bore increases valve area and gives more piston area to push down on the crank . The cost of either are pretty close .
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Originally Posted by v8pwr
If you want to compare the graphs look @ MTI's site . I would go all bore there is just no comparison . A stroker makes more torque @ lower rpm's but if there the same displacement the all bore will make just as much torque just at a higher rpm equalling more POWER . A stroker gives the piston more leverage against the crank but an all bore increases valve area and gives more piston area to push down on the crank . The cost of either are pretty close .
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The only time its cheaper to do the all bore route is to keep the production crank and (if staying n/a) the rods with some ARPs in them otherwise you will spend the same amount on the rotating assembly as you would a stroker and then will have the machine shop bill for the sleeving. If I where to buy a crank/rods/pistons and also sleeve the block it will not be 380ish size engine, more like 420ish. Like 1984camaroZ28 said if you have a good machine shop that know how to put dry sleeves in properly you will not have any trouble out of em.
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Originally Posted by Bo White
The only time its cheaper to do the all bore route is to keep the production crank and (if staying n/a) the rods with some ARPs in them otherwise you will spend the same amount on the rotating assembly as you would a stroker and then will have the machine shop bill for the sleeving. If I where to buy a crank/rods/pistons and also sleeve the block it will not be 380ish size engine, more like 420ish. Like 1984camaroZ28 said if you have a good machine shop that know how to put dry sleeves in properly you will not have any trouble out of em.
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Originally Posted by 1984camaroz28
if ur staying NA ur wasting ur money.... give bo a pm about a dry sleve block he can hook u up
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Originally Posted by texada
I always thought that wet was better than dry?