[Q] draining coolant
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
From: FL
[Q] draining coolant I decided to drain some coolant out and replace with Prestone coolant (50/50)
I decided that because when I checked out my coolant (I have not bee driving the car for 6 month) it had rust stuff in it. The coolant appeared to be green (so that's why bought green color coolant)
I then opened the drain plug and drained what I could, the color of the stuff coming out was more like purple rather then dark green....
I added then the Preston. I was thinking that I drained all 11qt ('98 trans am), but now I realize I drained out only what was in the radiator.
So overfilled the coolant reservour with 1gallon of Prestone. Then I figured that could drain little more out (2 qt), to add water. But out of that radiator drain I could get much more ... Then I figured I will drive the car for a little bit and it would fill in the radiator.
I start the car, I see the 'add coolant light on (it is an arrow pointing down to a wave line). I just drove it for 5 minutes, my temperature went up way high. I pulled back to my house, stopped the car, the fan was working like for another 5 minutes....
Now I do not what to do, is it possible that I screwed up bad and put wrong coolant in that it clogged the cooling system (I have read not to mix different coolants... but like I said the Prestone I used is ethenyl glycol based)?
I did not flash the system prior to adding coolant, I did not think it was necessary...
but now I have almost no water there, it is overfilled and the engine gets very hot....
any ideas, help would be greately appreciated
I decided that because when I checked out my coolant (I have not bee driving the car for 6 month) it had rust stuff in it. The coolant appeared to be green (so that's why bought green color coolant)
I then opened the drain plug and drained what I could, the color of the stuff coming out was more like purple rather then dark green....
I added then the Preston. I was thinking that I drained all 11qt ('98 trans am), but now I realize I drained out only what was in the radiator.
So overfilled the coolant reservour with 1gallon of Prestone. Then I figured that could drain little more out (2 qt), to add water. But out of that radiator drain I could get much more ... Then I figured I will drive the car for a little bit and it would fill in the radiator.
I start the car, I see the 'add coolant light on (it is an arrow pointing down to a wave line). I just drove it for 5 minutes, my temperature went up way high. I pulled back to my house, stopped the car, the fan was working like for another 5 minutes....
Now I do not what to do, is it possible that I screwed up bad and put wrong coolant in that it clogged the cooling system (I have read not to mix different coolants... but like I said the Prestone I used is ethenyl glycol based)?
I did not flash the system prior to adding coolant, I did not think it was necessary...
but now I have almost no water there, it is overfilled and the engine gets very hot....
any ideas, help would be greately appreciated
Do you have an LS1 or LT1? If it's an LS1, you shouldn't be using the green stuff, that will cause the aluminum engine to corode internally. You want the orange colored stuff.
No, you didn't clog your engine or anything, you just have some air trapped in the heads. This is very common after draining the system. Same thing happened to me when I took the heads off the engine. All you need to do is let it idle until it gets hot, then turn off the engine before the needle is in the red and you will see the that the radiator is low, so add more to it. Let it cool a bit, then repeat this cycle until it isn't low when you take the lid off.
No, you didn't clog your engine or anything, you just have some air trapped in the heads. This is very common after draining the system. Same thing happened to me when I took the heads off the engine. All you need to do is let it idle until it gets hot, then turn off the engine before the needle is in the red and you will see the that the radiator is low, so add more to it. Let it cool a bit, then repeat this cycle until it isn't low when you take the lid off.
Originally Posted by Master Chief
you need to use dexcool....i would flush your coolant system and then add dexcool....it might take a little time but it needs to be done
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
From: FL
thanks guys. It is a '98 LS1
Yes, I let it cool a bit, and then I was able to add water.
So the light is not coming back anymore.
As you guys recommend I will flash the system. The Prestone can
says: "All Cooling system metals", so I thought it is OK. I guess I will have to go to a shop for the flush though, as I do not have all the tools to get the coolant out of the engine block (mitivac would not do that, I think)
Also I have been calling places here and right now now no one lets me dispose of the used coolant (discount auto, autozone, tirekingdom) ... I am in Palm beach cty, FL
Yes, I let it cool a bit, and then I was able to add water.
So the light is not coming back anymore.
As you guys recommend I will flash the system. The Prestone can
says: "All Cooling system metals", so I thought it is OK. I guess I will have to go to a shop for the flush though, as I do not have all the tools to get the coolant out of the engine block (mitivac would not do that, I think)
Also I have been calling places here and right now now no one lets me dispose of the used coolant (discount auto, autozone, tirekingdom) ... I am in Palm beach cty, FL
You can do a home garage flush if your inclined instead of going to a shop and paying $45+ for a cooling system flush. Get 2 gallons of Prestone Dexcool approved coolant, Wallmart etc... While at Wallmart buy about 20 jugs of their $.50 Distilled water. You want to use Distilled water in your cooling system, typical tap water has too many minerals in the water.
1. Drain your radiator, fill radiator w distilled water until full, cap radiator and allow engine to idle with heater on until the the thermostat opens and the system begins to circulate the water through the block. Turn off engine and drain radiator. Proceed to do this process until draining fluid from the radiator is clear and water looking.
2. Fill radiator with Dexcool in the amount of concentration you desire. The remaining water left in the block will be distilled fresh water and when the system circulates it will mix to the proper 50/50 or 70/30 mix you desire. HTH
1. Drain your radiator, fill radiator w distilled water until full, cap radiator and allow engine to idle with heater on until the the thermostat opens and the system begins to circulate the water through the block. Turn off engine and drain radiator. Proceed to do this process until draining fluid from the radiator is clear and water looking.
2. Fill radiator with Dexcool in the amount of concentration you desire. The remaining water left in the block will be distilled fresh water and when the system circulates it will mix to the proper 50/50 or 70/30 mix you desire. HTH
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
From: Sterling Heights, MI
Dex-Cool is the worst stuff you could ever put in your car. After a lot period of time, this crap gels up in the water jackets making a complete mess out of the entire cooling system including the block.
Ford and Chrysler also use long term coolant without these problems. I'd look for a DC or Ford equivalent coolant. Ford and Chrysler have all aluminum engines and have not run into this problem.
Ford and Chrysler also use long term coolant without these problems. I'd look for a DC or Ford equivalent coolant. Ford and Chrysler have all aluminum engines and have not run into this problem.
Trending Topics
Originally Posted by Swifster
Dex-Cool is the worst stuff you could ever put in your car. After a lot period of time, this crap gels up in the water jackets making a complete mess out of the entire cooling system including the block.
Ford and Chrysler also use long term coolant without these problems. I'd look for a DC or Ford equivalent coolant. Ford and Chrysler have all aluminum engines and have not run into this problem.
Ford and Chrysler also use long term coolant without these problems. I'd look for a DC or Ford equivalent coolant. Ford and Chrysler have all aluminum engines and have not run into this problem.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Topdon ONE vs. Artidiag 800 BT2: Which is the Diagnostic Tablet For You?
Pouria Savadkouei
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Verdad Gallardo
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo Dexcool is fine in a properly maintained cooling system. There are millions of GM engines out there that are testament to this. Cooling system neglect and ignorance is the problem.
solution to your problem, start the car with the radiator cap off. Wait for car to get warm. when car gets warm, thermostat will engage and coolant will flow. then wait til coolant gets low and fill with water to top.
Nate
Nate
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
From: Sterling Heights, MI
Originally Posted by Ryan02SS
Dexcool is fine in a properly maintained cooling system. There are millions of GM engines out there that are testament to this. Cooling system neglect and ignorance is the problem.
This is a problem and GM knows it. But hey, at 100,000 miles, it's out of warranty and not their problem, right?
...since it comes with it from the factory... ive got 104k on mine...been using dexcool the whole time...inspected the water jackets and heads....no gelling
the gelling is from improper mixture and from using tapwater instead of purified water
the gelling is from improper mixture and from using tapwater instead of purified water
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
From: Sterling Heights, MI
Originally Posted by Master Chief
ive got 104k on mine...been using dexcool the whole time...inspected the water jackets and heads....no gelling
the gelling is from improper mixture and from using tapwater instead of purified water
the gelling is from improper mixture and from using tapwater instead of purified water
Go ahead and use this stuff at your own risk. Sorry, but I plan on using good out glychol based coolant. Dex-Cool is for the lazy. Again, if you feel you need long term coolant, get the Chrysler or Ford eqivalent and safe your engine.
As for thousands of cars being out of commission, that's probably a fair statement. But if this effects 200,000 or 300,000 cars out of millions, isn't this still a problem? Especially if Ford and Chrysler don't have this same problem? How many old folks driving Cadillacs and Buicks or Oldsmobiles do you think just paid the bill without thinking about it?
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
From: FL
I ended up filling it in with Publix drinking water and two bottles of waterwetter. Sofar runs cool (at least according to the dash temp. gauge). I am in south FL, it never gets cold enough here to use the 'antifreeze' properties of the coolant, and watterwatter has the other properties of the coolant (or at least that's what I think :-) )
Originally Posted by 90vtwin
I ended up filling it in with Publix drinking water and two bottles of waterwetter. Sofar runs cool (at least according to the dash temp. gauge). I am in south FL, it never gets cold enough here to use the 'antifreeze' properties of the coolant, and watterwatter has the other properties of the coolant (or at least that's what I think :-) )
TSB's from GM indicate that most problems come from a low coolant level condition, I know it states under the hood that Dexcool is good for 5 years-100K-150K(because of no silicates) but the correct level needs to be maintained. Yes you might have to add coolant from time to time. The TSB's also state that you can have up to 25% of the "green" coolant without adverse effects.
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
From: Schaumburg, IL
I work for GM warranty, dexcool is great, I would recommend a flush every two years or so, the biggest problem is owner negligence. There is a tsb on a few GM veh for corrosion in the water jackets, but the tsb starts off with...lack of maintenance
You guys saying DexCool is fine, explain this to me:
In 1997, my father got his new company car (they get one every 5 years), a 1997 Chevy Lumina with the 3.1. It was delivered to him brand new. Whenever it needed service, it was his responsibility to get it done (on the company's dime) so the car has effectively been under our care ever since brand new. It never had any engine work or anything during it's tenure as a company vehicle. Just routine maintenance. When it's 5 years were up, my father bought it for our family. It had 101k miles. My brother took it to school and very shortly thereafter, it started to get hot. He checked the dipstick and the oil looked like a vanilla milkshake (water in the oil). However, the car had never OVERheated. He changed the oil and brought it home. It ran fine but would get water in the oil. I tore it down (still in good running condition) to find that one of the coolant ports in the 2-piece manifold was 99% blocked. There was a hole barely the diameter of a pencil for coolant to pass through. When the coolant couldn't flow through, it blew out the plastic lower manifold-to-head seal allowing water to escape into the lifter valley. I completely redid everything from the pistons up since I was already there and the car had 100k miles on it. But the system was never opened but properly maintained it's entire life. It did not block up that port in the 2k miles my brother put on it after we bought it. So how is that not a problem?
In 1997, my father got his new company car (they get one every 5 years), a 1997 Chevy Lumina with the 3.1. It was delivered to him brand new. Whenever it needed service, it was his responsibility to get it done (on the company's dime) so the car has effectively been under our care ever since brand new. It never had any engine work or anything during it's tenure as a company vehicle. Just routine maintenance. When it's 5 years were up, my father bought it for our family. It had 101k miles. My brother took it to school and very shortly thereafter, it started to get hot. He checked the dipstick and the oil looked like a vanilla milkshake (water in the oil). However, the car had never OVERheated. He changed the oil and brought it home. It ran fine but would get water in the oil. I tore it down (still in good running condition) to find that one of the coolant ports in the 2-piece manifold was 99% blocked. There was a hole barely the diameter of a pencil for coolant to pass through. When the coolant couldn't flow through, it blew out the plastic lower manifold-to-head seal allowing water to escape into the lifter valley. I completely redid everything from the pistons up since I was already there and the car had 100k miles on it. But the system was never opened but properly maintained it's entire life. It did not block up that port in the 2k miles my brother put on it after we bought it. So how is that not a problem?
12 Second Club
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 270
Likes: 0
From: Chicago IL
Originally Posted by Ryan02SS
You can do a home garage flush if your inclined instead of going to a shop and paying $45+ for a cooling system flush. Get 2 gallons of Prestone Dexcool approved coolant, Wallmart etc... While at Wallmart buy about 20 jugs of their $.50 Distilled water. You want to use Distilled water in your cooling system, typical tap water has too many minerals in the water.
1. Drain your radiator, fill radiator w distilled water until full, cap radiator and allow engine to idle with heater on until the the thermostat opens and the system begins to circulate the water through the block. Turn off engine and drain radiator. Proceed to do this process until draining fluid from the radiator is clear and water looking.
2. Fill radiator with Dexcool in the amount of concentration you desire. The remaining water left in the block will be distilled fresh water and when the system circulates it will mix to the proper 50/50 or 70/30 mix you desire. HTH
1. Drain your radiator, fill radiator w distilled water until full, cap radiator and allow engine to idle with heater on until the the thermostat opens and the system begins to circulate the water through the block. Turn off engine and drain radiator. Proceed to do this process until draining fluid from the radiator is clear and water looking.
2. Fill radiator with Dexcool in the amount of concentration you desire. The remaining water left in the block will be distilled fresh water and when the system circulates it will mix to the proper 50/50 or 70/30 mix you desire. HTH
Its been about a year since i did this so I don't remeber exactly.