Crankshaft Pulley will NOT come off
#1
Crankshaft Pulley will NOT come off
Tried for 3 hours of brute force on the 3-arm pulley on my crankshaft pulley... that SOB will absolutely NOT COME OFF I can't tell you how many times I backed the puller off, readjusted, then put it back on. I tightened it so hard that i was only dragging my body across the floor under the car and it wasn't budging a millimeter. This is really pissing me off and is the only thing delaying my cam swap... any ideas? I really don't want to have to take a torch/hammer to it
#3
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first of all, are you using the stock bolt? how far did you back it out? second, try a breaker bar. third, use the torch, it made my pully removal/install a breeze. you dont even have to heat it for that long...
#6
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Originally Posted by DVCrazyCamTAWs6
i stuck a long 1/2 extentsion in then hole . then used a 3foot brakerbar
STOP!!!!!!!!
I did that and messed up the threads inside the crank. The square end of the 1/2" extension is big enough to hit the threads and will not bottom out in the crank. A 3/8" extension will clear the threads and bottom out. I only messed up the first thread and was able to repair it easily.
Check that.
Second, get a propane torch and heat the pulley but not the crank. The pulley should expand enough to slide off. You'd be surprised how much of a difference .001" makes...
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#10
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Hi Folks
Wait - the heavy-duty gear puller are made so as you tight them up, you hit the end of the bolt - it designed to take a hit. Also get the longer crank bolt because you going to need it and you don't want to damage the crack (threads inside crack). It will fight you to the end. I used a small sludge hammer, no too hard but enough to break it free.
Bill
Wait - the heavy-duty gear puller are made so as you tight them up, you hit the end of the bolt - it designed to take a hit. Also get the longer crank bolt because you going to need it and you don't want to damage the crack (threads inside crack). It will fight you to the end. I used a small sludge hammer, no too hard but enough to break it free.
Bill
#13
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I used a socket big enough to fit over the crank (not inside) but inside the pulley forget what size it was. Then cranked the puller straight into the backside of it. took some brute force. Used the handle off my floorjack(3-ton, substantial handle) as an extension on the breaker bar, got more than 3' of leverage this way. Then leaned and pushed on it. It came. Go from the top and push down, you get better leverage this way. You can use all your body wait instead of laying on the floor as dead wait trying to balance and pull at the same time takes your leverage away. My car is a 99 with 74,000 when I did this a couple months ago. But heat would be your next best thing if it wont budge. It wont take much.
#14
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Damn! That sucker's on there.
Did you try cranking the engine with the breaker bar near the ground, using the engine to break the bolt loose. I never tried this, but someone here said that they do that at the dealerships.
Did you try cranking the engine with the breaker bar near the ground, using the engine to break the bolt loose. I never tried this, but someone here said that they do that at the dealerships.
#15
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I used a bolt with a washer on it just the sizeof the inside diameter of the hole , same method as the 3/8 extension, get the puller on there real good and snug, smack that sucker hard after heating the pulley up a little bit. I also had a friend having trouble getting his pulley off, went to help out, we got the puller on there tight as we could with a 1/2 ratchet, went to go get a small torch and when we got back the pulley had come lose on its own. Sometimes the best advice i have ever had is when its not going good leave it for a while, sometimes things have a way or working out.
#17
Well it's still halfway on there but I got it to come halfway off now. Heated that thing up with a torch to where it was glowing and that thing only came halfway off before I ran out of threads on the stock pulley bolt. And, of course, no one around here carries a longer bolt. So, tomorrow I have to find another bolt like that somewhere and get a new pulley cuz this one is gonna be F'ed up by the time I get it off.... !@$#*@^!#*&@^!*
#18
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I had a hard time finding a longer bolt. I ended up going to a nuts and bolts only shop and he had one for ~$10...a big sucker. Nobody carries threaded rod of that size....
I used the longer bolt to push the balancer on because you wont be able to get the stock bolt's threads to catch. I used a lot of oiled washers to make it pull on easier...
I used the longer bolt to push the balancer on because you wont be able to get the stock bolt's threads to catch. I used a lot of oiled washers to make it pull on easier...
#19
longer bolt
Is the longer bolt the way everybody is doing it here? I have to install mine still and need to find a longer bolt or something? how do the oiled washers work?
#20
That's what she said...
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Originally Posted by ArcticZ28
Well it's still halfway on there but I got it to come halfway off now. Heated that thing up with a torch to where it was glowing and that thing only came halfway off before I ran out of threads on the stock pulley bolt. And, of course, no one around here carries a longer bolt. So, tomorrow I have to find another bolt like that somewhere and get a new pulley cuz this one is gonna be F'ed up by the time I get it off.... !@$#*@^!#*&@^!*
if you're heating the crank + the pulley up, you arent doing as much good as if you tried to somehow isolate the pulley. be EXTRA carefull with those crank bolt threads (inside the crank), you can really blow it when you start screwing around in there