Car has vibration at idle
Car has vibration at idle My car has a vibration like a miss at idle. I get NO SES light at all, so I figured it has to be something minor. Car has 65k on it.
I have done the following to try and correct it:
Spark plug swap (factory to NGK-TR55's gapped to .055)
Spark plug wire swap (factory to Taylor 409 10.4mm)
Fuel filter (factory to WIX)
Cleaned throttle body and MAF out
I was going to change out the PCV valve, but the one at O'Reilly looks to be a different one (for 98-99 models).
Any other suggestions? Mods are in sig. Going to replace K&N with paper filter.
I have done the following to try and correct it:
Spark plug swap (factory to NGK-TR55's gapped to .055)
Spark plug wire swap (factory to Taylor 409 10.4mm)
Fuel filter (factory to WIX)
Cleaned throttle body and MAF out
I was going to change out the PCV valve, but the one at O'Reilly looks to be a different one (for 98-99 models).
Any other suggestions? Mods are in sig. Going to replace K&N with paper filter.
Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
I've read that Taylor wires had issues, but I have no first hand experience with them. I use MSD
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 14,620
Likes: 17
From: BFE
SES comes on in case of multiple missfires. If only one cylinder does it it won't SES.
If the have an oscilloscope scan yes.
OR FYI, there is a new tool on the market (PRO SCAN).......> sponsor.
If the have an oscilloscope scan yes.
OR FYI, there is a new tool on the market (PRO SCAN).......> sponsor.
Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
SES comes on in case of multiple missfires. If only one cylinder does it it won't SES.
If the have an oscilloscope scan yes.
OR FYI, there is a new tool on the market (PRO SCAN).......> sponsor.
If the have an oscilloscope scan yes.
OR FYI, there is a new tool on the market (PRO SCAN).......> sponsor.
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Joined: Mar 2003
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From: La Porte, TX
Originally Posted by shouldaboughttheZ
checked out Pro Scans website and it looks pretty good. Will have to try and talk the wife into letting me get this.
What part of Houston are you in? If you are close I might be able to take a look at it.
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Originally Posted by WS6snake-eater
What part of Houston are you in? If you are close I might be able to take a look at it.
I got it fixed. Ended up being a $2 PCV valve. Car runs really smooth now.
Originally Posted by shouldaboughttheZ
Now the damn thing is back. What the hell is going on? I was going to get the scanner as mentioned above but have not been able to yet.
Originally Posted by shouldaboughttheZ
Now the damn thing is back. What the hell is going on? I was going to get the scanner as mentioned above but have not been able to yet.
Originally Posted by UnleashedBeast
Did you discover your problem yet. I have the same problem and I am trying to fix it. Let me know what you find out so that I can see if it helps me.
Then he decided to do a relearn on the crank position sensor. It would not do it. So he did an osilloscope on the sensor and found it did not have consistant readings. It would have a long them some short ones and doing this randomly. There for the computer was trying to adjust everything it was recieveing from the sensor.
I am getting a new sensor this weekend.
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 451
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From: Spring Hill, TN
Well, the CPS might actually be right and you could have a bad timing chain. Doesn't the service manual specify a test procedure for the CPS? Or how about validating the timing chain first. You can do it by taking off a valve cover and turning the crank by hand. Watch to see how far you can turn the crank either way before the valves begin to move.
That will be a whole lot easier than swapping the CPS on a whim...isn't it at the back of the block necessitating an engine pull?
That will be a whole lot easier than swapping the CPS on a whim...isn't it at the back of the block necessitating an engine pull?
Originally Posted by jyeager
Well, the CPS might actually be right and you could have a bad timing chain. Doesn't the service manual specify a test procedure for the CPS? Or how about validating the timing chain first. You can do it by taking off a valve cover and turning the crank by hand. Watch to see how far you can turn the crank either way before the valves begin to move.
That will be a whole lot easier than swapping the CPS on a whim...isn't it at the back of the block necessitating an engine pull?
That will be a whole lot easier than swapping the CPS on a whim...isn't it at the back of the block necessitating an engine pull?
Can you specifiy alittle more on the timing chain procedure. I don't have a manual nor can I find one. How far should it go before the valves start to open?
I will. Couldn't afford the sensor this week. Next week is the "free check" (5 weeks in this month), and am going to order it thursday so I can pick it up on Friday. Will keep you informed.
