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anyone using AFR's milled to 59 cc, TSP 231/237 on a 346?

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Old 03-19-2005, 10:58 PM
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Default anyone using AFR's milled to 59 cc, TSP 231/237 on a 346?

We also have .040 cometics. With regards to valvetrain geometry, any firsthand experience with size of shims and length of pushrods would be great.

We have .060 shims in right now, and 7.350. The lifters are not pumped up yet, however. as they are brand new. I plan on getting the motor together, running for a few minutes, then checking the wipe pattern, and then if/when that is correct, selecting the proper length pushrod to get the preload correct.

TIA
Old 03-20-2005, 05:18 PM
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Interested keep us informed
Old 05-20-2005, 09:06 AM
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We cut pistons, installed the milled afr's and clearance is fine. I may be changing pushrods. those 7.35's are shimmed and are chattery as heck though, even though everythings tq'd right. Maybe nice rockers next.

car pulls like crazy though
Old 05-20-2005, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Bull_in_a_china_shop
Maybe nice rockers next.

car pulls like crazy though
Save your money....buy a FAST intake if you don't have one already. The aftermarket heavier rockers have caused more power losses than power gains....unless your stepping up to a solid valvetrain, they are not a good investment. With the right spring and a hollow stem valve you can run them but why bother when the lighter factory pieces are getting the job done in most hydraulic roller applications.
Old 05-20-2005, 11:29 AM
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To quiet down the valvetrain.
Old 05-20-2005, 02:24 PM
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i'm running the afr's,59cc,0.40 cametics and g5x3 cam. i'm using stock rockers w/7.4 pushrods.
Old 05-20-2005, 02:53 PM
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Is the base circle the same on a LG cam vs TSP?
Old 05-20-2005, 03:41 PM
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Why are you running .060" shims and shorter pushrods? If your goal is to put the pushrod at the top of the plunger, seems like it would have been easier to do one or the other, but not both.

You've lost .040" in rocker height due to milling and thinner gaskets. A 7.35 pushrod should be .010" higher in the plunger than stock. Adding a .060" shim will make your pushrod .070" higher in the plunger and I'm not sure, but it sounds like that's too much to the top. It will most likely rattle like crazy. If your goal is to get the shallowest plunger depth possible, you'll probably still need less than a .060" shim. If your goal is to have close to stock geometry, either use a .040" shim and stock 7.40" pushrods or keep the 7.35" pushrods and go with no shims. All of this IMO of course.
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