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What oil to use for break in period? Nondetergant?

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Old 03-23-2005, 05:47 AM
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Default What oil to use for break in period? Nondetergant?

Motor going in soon, whats a good oil (nondetergant?) to run for the initial start up and break in process?
Old 03-23-2005, 06:07 AM
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Regular old Valvoline 5w30 is what I would use unless your engine builder has a specific recommendation.

Last edited by equandt; 03-23-2005 at 12:28 PM.
Old 03-23-2005, 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by equandt
Regular old Valoline 5w30 is what I would use unless your engine builder has a specific recommendation.
Has to be nondetergant, non synthetic.
Who makes a good oil like this?
Old 03-23-2005, 12:25 PM
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Nondetergent? No way! Keep that junk out of your motor! You'll only find this stuff in the dollar stores, or sometimes in Walmart you'll find it sold as straight 30 weight non detergent oil for chainsaws or stuff like that.

But I would never ever put it in a high performance engine!

Just go with something like Castrol GTX 10w40 or Pennzoil 10w40 for the first 3000 miles on the new motor.
Old 03-23-2005, 12:28 PM
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Patman,
you should change your title to oil mod or something to do with oil...EVERYONE asks you what to do with oil....haha
Old 03-23-2005, 12:30 PM
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**** it..just put in royal purple
Old 03-23-2005, 12:32 PM
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Damn Patman beat me to it.GTX is what i just got done breaking in my motor with.
Old 03-23-2005, 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Patman
Nondetergent? No way! Keep that junk out of your motor! You'll only find this stuff in the dollar stores, or sometimes in Walmart you'll find it sold as straight 30 weight non detergent oil for chainsaws or stuff like that.

But I would never ever put it in a high performance engine!

Just go with something like Castrol GTX 10w40 or Pennzoil 10w40 for the first 3000 miles on the new motor.
I think you might not be understanding what cyclerage wants to do.

If I'm guessing right, cyclerage may want to limit the amount of time necessary to break-in the engine. If you pay close attention to what you are doing, you can break-in the engine faster by using a mineral oil with a minimum additive package.

Mechanics in the General Aviation industry have been doing it for years. After the engine was overhauled, they put in a general purpose oil of the proper weight, and ran the aircraft engine in a test stand or a controlled short hop, all the while monitoring the instruments closely.

We were taught you could actually see the MAP, rpms, CHT & EGT change as the engine broke in.

Now if cyclerage did it right, and did not go overboard on rpms and mileage, he might get his engine settled in much sooner than normal.
Old 03-23-2005, 06:56 PM
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When I had my L98 and ZZ Crate engine built, I was also told to use non detergent oil for the break in (first 500 miles), then change it at 500, 1000 & 2000 then every 3K after that. But on this forum I've seen people adivsed otehrs to change it after 20 minutes, then just use regular castrol. Which is correct?

D
Old 03-23-2005, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by ROCNDAV
When I had my L98 and ZZ Crate engine built, I was also told to use non detergent oil for the break in (first 500 miles), then change it at 500, 1000 & 2000 then every 3K after that. But on this forum I've seen people adivsed otehrs to change it after 20 minutes, then just use regular castrol. Which is correct?

D
Well ROCNDAV, nobody told you anything wrong.
I wouldn't have kept the break-in oil for 500 miles, but that's just me.
And 20 minutes is just plain wasteful. You're not even getting a decent duty cycle in that short of a time.

On a new car I pick up from the dealership, I use multigrade mineral oil and change the oil at 50, 1000, & 3000. The 3000 mile change gets the first synthetic.

And then after 3000, the oil changes you do can reflect the usual >4000 mile synthetic changes, depending synthetic brand you can afford, on your comfort level, and oil analysis if your really meticulous.

With modern multigrade oils, whether mineral or synthetic, 3000 miles is wasteful, unless you are truly operating your car in severe conditions.

If you want to know enough about lubrication to make your own best judgements, learn from all the knowlegeable people on the forums at http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/
A lot of those people have done oil analysis on their engines, and the results of a chemical test on an oil beats the heck out of guesswork!
Old 03-23-2005, 10:30 PM
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Good stuff
Old 03-25-2005, 10:49 PM
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Found some new information on engine breakin here: http://www.gmpartsdepot.com/gwinst.html

4. Engine Break-In: This assembly has been tested and can be driven without a formal "break-in" schedule. However after performing steps 1, 2 and 3, start the engine and let it idle at 1600 to 2000 RPM for 10 to 20 minutes allowing the oil pressure and temperature to stabilize. Refer to the service manual for the proper pressure range. During this time, where applicable, adjust the timing and valve clearance and check for leaks. ROAD TEST the vehicle for a minimum of 10 miles (16.09 km for Canada) with combined city and highway driving, do not exceed 50 miles per hour (80 kph for Canada), or use any fast throttle responses. Send the vehicle to be cleaned prior to returning to the customer.

Instruct customer that the first service interval for changing oil and filter should be between 300 to 500 miles (500 km to 800 km for Canada).




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