This is what the knocking was...
03-28-2005, 08:14 AM
#21
I too am sorry to see this. Hope you get everything back togather quickly. I dont mean to be a dick, but as a helpful warning to other LS1ers out there, may I ask how far off the timing was in order to make it look like a small nuclear device was detonated inside the number 8 cylinder? Ive heard stories that one tooth off may not be enough to make p to v collide. Maybe in this case it was.
Thanks, and sorry for you loss once again.
Thanks, and sorry for you loss once again.
03-28-2005, 09:12 AM
#22
I believe I was off about 2 teeth on the cam sprocket, which translates to ~4 degrees off. I actually had the dots lined up perfectly on both sprockets, but what I didn't account for was that there was slack on the right side of the chain and the left side was very tight. It was so hard to just get the cam sprocket on, being that it was a new double roller and very tight, that I was just too relieved that I *thought* we had it aligned and wasn't thinking clearly. So, as the slack evened out on both sides, the top sprocket turned enough to throw the timing way off.
03-28-2005, 10:21 AM
#24
Originally Posted by GuitsBoy
Damn 
certainly sounds like youve got a lot more slack in your chain than any ive seen... Thanks for the heads up.
certainly sounds like youve got a lot more slack in your chain than any ive seen... Thanks for the heads up.Lesson #1 learned:
Check to make sure the timing is lined up correctly. Check again. Move the sprocket around so there is even slack on both sides. Check again.
.... and check again.
03-29-2005, 05:42 AM
#29
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Sorry to see that damage. It was very nice of you to share it with all of us gearheads, and we all know ourselves how we would feel it was our car, no doubt. The good thing is that you WILL be able to get another motor, especially one out of the car, that you can really do a number on, including bottom end refinements if you know what I mean. I would look at this as sort of a blessing, because the new motor will be one bad *** mother, compared to the existing would have been. Get your buddies together and go find that replacement! Good luck!
Vetteman
Vetteman
03-30-2005, 08:55 AM
#33
Man I'm sorry to see that. I almost did the same thing, so I can see how easy it could hapen. I did my first cam swap a week ago. I had the dots lined up and was bolted back together. I was so happy to have the damn thing on, so I thought I was good. I got lucky that I noticed after turning it that the crank gear wasn't straight up. I was off a at least a tooth. Once again, I'm very sorry you didn't luck out and catch it. At least now you get to look forward to a much stronger engine. Good luck with everything.
03-30-2005, 09:24 AM
#34
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Originally Posted by ArcticZ28
As of right now, I think I'm gonna just bore mine and throw a 383 stroker in. But, just out of curiosity, how much are you looking for?
03-30-2005, 09:34 AM
#36
The scratch isn't very deep at all, but just enough to need to be bored over. And, there's no way I'm going back to stock after all this **** I've gone through. I gotta make it at least somewhat worth my while if I'm already gonna be boring it over, hence the 383.
03-30-2005, 10:13 AM
#37
you can bore it over, and NOT buy a crank.....making it approx. a 347. That's what the economical approach to this would be. You can still do some forged rods/pistons and be set up with a sweet bottom end that's good to the 9sec range.
Why are you so hung up on the "383" idea? I personally see the stroker crank as just overkill in your financial situation. At least you seem to be on a financial bind anyways.
Why are you so hung up on the "383" idea? I personally see the stroker crank as just overkill in your financial situation. At least you seem to be on a financial bind anyways.
03-30-2005, 11:05 AM
#38
I have found that I have about a 3k budget for whatever needs to be done on this. I have gone through so much **** that I would like to gain some substantial HP out of this engine rebuild if possible. Hence, the 383 stroker option. It seems to me that it is the best option right now. I am still completely open to any ideas you all may have... I just want the best bang for the buck after going through all this hell. So please, suggestions welcome!
03-30-2005, 11:11 AM
#39
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Sorry for the misfortune, but congrats on the coolest pictures this week so far. Even though it is painful now, you will have to pictures to look at in a few years and enjoy with a bunch of gearheads....They love that sh*t, especially after a few 'stories.'
Todd
Todd
03-30-2005, 11:13 AM
#40
well, here's my opinion, for whatever it's worth.....
bore the motor over to get the scratch out($350)
Forged Mahle pistons/rings($550)
Forged Rod($550-700)
Polish crank($50)
new bearings($150)
cam and head swap kit($250)
Rod bolts($100)
Nirous kit
total=about $2000, and that's not even including assembly, or heads....
cranks are around $1000, but if it were me, i'd invest in a good quality nitrous setup, as that's gonna net you the biggest gains, and still be streetable
This motor stuff adds up VERY quickly
bore the motor over to get the scratch out($350)
Forged Mahle pistons/rings($550)
Forged Rod($550-700)
Polish crank($50)
new bearings($150)
cam and head swap kit($250)
Rod bolts($100)
Nirous kit
total=about $2000, and that's not even including assembly, or heads....
cranks are around $1000, but if it were me, i'd invest in a good quality nitrous setup, as that's gonna net you the biggest gains, and still be streetable
This motor stuff adds up VERY quickly