This is what the knocking was...
04-04-2005, 05:19 PM
#61
Originally Posted by GrannySShifting
bud, Im super busy right now and not trying to brush you off in anyway but Im known as the hardest guy ever to get ahold of on the sell fone. You can email me at LTOne4Fun@aol.com or try the cell 443-857-7869, but the email is a surefire way to get ahold of me, late night I always sift thru the emails
04-05-2005, 12:16 AM
#62
Originally Posted by slow01z28
That is true, but Jeff is a very helpful person. He has alot going on like the rest of us.
04-05-2005, 12:40 AM
#63
Originally Posted by GrannySShifting
Werd homey, 4 cars from shells to running cars in 3 weeks, in between the reglar daily grind. My head hurts. 4 more cars to go, well 3 cars 1 truck before next weekend. Good times
04-05-2005, 02:06 AM
#64
i've been eyeballing the APE 347 "cheap-street" motor they have for 2800$, mahle forged pistons, eagle h-beam's (i think), and a polished stock crank. plus if they dont meet their promised ship date, its freeeeee!
lingenfelter also has a 347 shortblock w/ stock crank and rods, but forged pistions for around 2200$
i'm also against the idea of bigger cubic inches at this point for you. remember there ARE 10 second cam only cars running around on here
just think of how fast a fat cam, forged pistons, ARP rodbolts, and a 150 shot will get you rolling out.
as for heads, you might look at patriot, they have some pretty cheap and respectable stuff going on over there. and dont forget to put some new lifters in there before you put it back together (comp 850's work great w/ non-adjustable rockers). take out a loan for a grand or two if you absolutly have to, gotta get things on the road again
stock heads can be found in the for sale section pretty cheap as well.
what year is your car? looking at your black mirrors in your pictures, it looks to be a 98
the 98 motors can't handle much of a bore job at all.
lingenfelter also has a 347 shortblock w/ stock crank and rods, but forged pistions for around 2200$
i'm also against the idea of bigger cubic inches at this point for you. remember there ARE 10 second cam only cars running around on here
just think of how fast a fat cam, forged pistons, ARP rodbolts, and a 150 shot will get you rolling out.as for heads, you might look at patriot, they have some pretty cheap and respectable stuff going on over there. and dont forget to put some new lifters in there before you put it back together (comp 850's work great w/ non-adjustable rockers). take out a loan for a grand or two if you absolutly have to, gotta get things on the road again
stock heads can be found in the for sale section pretty cheap as well.what year is your car? looking at your black mirrors in your pictures, it looks to be a 98
the 98 motors can't handle much of a bore job at all.
04-05-2005, 11:50 AM
#65
You would choose a 347 over a 383 if you could get the 383 for the same price? Please explain (keeping in mind that I am not looking for the MOST POWERFUL 383 in the world, just looking for a better place to start for future mods).
04-05-2005, 02:08 PM
#66
i would rather buy a forged 347 built by APE than have someone rebuild my stock motor to a 383. i can forsee APE's stuff holding up better in the long run. if you have dreams for more inches, throw a forged stroker crank in the 347 later on and you're partying.
btw, what year is your car?
btw, what year is your car?
04-05-2005, 03:27 PM
#67
Originally Posted by TheBlurLS1
i would rather buy a forged 347 built by APE than have someone rebuild my stock motor to a 383. i can forsee APE's stuff holding up better in the long run. if you have dreams for more inches, throw a forged stroker crank in the 347 later on and you're partying.
btw, what year is your car?
btw, what year is your car?
04-22-2005, 10:26 PM
#68
Who is this guy? putting them together and doing it well is two different things, were just tryign to make sure you find the difference between the two. These motors arent even a decade old
I wish I was a little closer or you to me I could give you a hand, but like Rob said, I dont get away enough to eat three meals a day sometime. Any questions you might have hit me up. When you get the new motor in, if your in the area or want to head up, I can do the crank relearn for you for free dollars (always the best price ) once the springs have been heat cycled a couple times,
I wish I was a little closer or you to me I could give you a hand, but like Rob said, I dont get away enough to eat three meals a day sometime. Any questions you might have hit me up. When you get the new motor in, if your in the area or want to head up, I can do the crank relearn for you for free dollars (always the best price
) once the springs have been heat cycled a couple times,
04-22-2005, 10:47 PM
#69
Originally Posted by GrannySShifting
Who is this guy? putting them together and doing it well is two different things, were just tryign to make sure you find the difference between the two. These motors arent even a decade old
I wish I was a little closer or you to me I could give you a hand, but like Rob said, I dont get away enough to eat three meals a day sometime. Any questions you might have hit me up. When you get the new motor in, if your in the area or want to head up, I can do the crank relearn for you for free dollars (always the best price ) once the springs have been heat cycled a couple times,
I wish I was a little closer or you to me I could give you a hand, but like Rob said, I dont get away enough to eat three meals a day sometime. Any questions you might have hit me up. When you get the new motor in, if your in the area or want to head up, I can do the crank relearn for you for free dollars (always the best price
) once the springs have been heat cycled a couple times,
04-23-2005, 09:39 AM
#72
Originally Posted by Viper
Maybe it's me, but isn't it easier to put the heads on whilethe motor is off? In other words what are you gaining by putting the motor in now? Glad to hear you're going to finally be rolling again.
04-23-2005, 07:32 PM
#73
Well, Jason never showed up, nor answered his phone or returned my message today. Today was absolutely useless, I got nothing done. Anyone want to SERIOUSLY help me next weekend that has done this before? I need someone I can count on to help me out. Bottom line, if it's not done by next weekend, then I'm screwed because it needs to be tuned and ready to drive cross country by Mid May and I have little to no time between now and then to work on it. I had this weekend free, but that has clearly gone to ****.
04-23-2005, 10:27 PM
#75
12 Second Club
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 1,479
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I was going to suggest you get a short block from slp and some heads form ebay but you got the stuff however you should get yourself a good book there is one out there now that just came out it's great tells you all kinds of impotant things like:
make sure you get all if any fluid out of the bolt holes in the block for the head bolts or it may crack your block well if it was an ALU block. I don't think you have to wory about that in an Iron block but you never know.
And it's got all the Toque specs and stuff.
make sure you get all if any fluid out of the bolt holes in the block for the head bolts or it may crack your block well if it was an ALU block. I don't think you have to wory about that in an Iron block but you never know.
And it's got all the Toque specs and stuff.
04-29-2005, 12:37 PM
#76
Launching!
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Iowa
Posts: 278
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by TigerFan187
That suck man. 3 months ago when my 4.8 was killed I put in a LS1 and 3 days later I started to get a knocking. 3 days later. Come to find out some tiny piece of metal(from the machine shop Im amost likely) got stuck on 2 of my new pistons and causing some dimples with sharp enough edges to hit the heads and scar them up a bit. 3 F'n days! Yuk! Luckily the pistons were fixable and the heads as well but it still sucked. Hell I hadnt even sprayed the LS1 yet when it happened!
yea, Im in the process of putting together a new motor also. The machine shop did warrenty work on my car by installing a new motor because the previous owner through barings, and I wasnt going to buy the car untill it was fixed, and that was a new motor. Something got into my engine also, cracked the bore, bent the pin connecting the piston and rod, beat the hell outta the head, but BOTH VALVES together.Sorry to hear bout your ****, I will def. make sure I get my new cam degreed in right, should have new motor in and goin ghopefully w/in a month.
05-15-2005, 09:23 PM
#77
hmmm kinda freaks me out about my car, you talking about the slack and all, so for me to go about checking this you want to turn the motor a few times in each direction and make sure the dots like up every time right?
i noticed and was going to recheck but one side of the chain is tight and the other is loose, should it be like that or no?
i noticed and was going to recheck but one side of the chain is tight and the other is loose, should it be like that or no?
